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Any suggestions?
I'm riding a KX125 frame with a Blaster motor in it and I find the clutch pull pretty stiff. I've got a new cable coming, but I seem to recall some people using a different clutch perch with an easier ratio.

Any remember those? So many hydro clutches out now, i've gotten spoiled. My forearm is aching!

karlgp wrote: 07:20 pm Jun 23 2025 Any suggestions?
I'm riding a KX125 frame with a Blaster motor in it and I find the clutch pull pretty stiff. I've got a new cable coming, but I seem to recall some people using a different clutch perch with an easier ratio.

Any remember those? So many hydro clutches out now, i've gotten spoiled. My forearm is aching!

Hydraulic clutches don't give you any real benefit that a good lever doesn't give you, it's all about leverage ratios whether it's an actual mechanical lever or whether it's a hydraulic cylinder leverage ratio versus slave cylinder.

The only benefit you get over a premium Motion Pro T3 Slidelight clutch cable (use CRF250X 2007 for the KDX application) is that cables don't automatically compensate for hot clutch swell the way hydraulic cylinders do. I simply adjust my cable when the bike is up to operating temperature during/after riding, and don't bother adjusting it with the engine cold.

I'm running Flo levers, they might be slightly easier leverage ratio than stock, but I have another one on the shelf that has two cable mounting pull points so obviously one will have a longer handlebar perch lever travel with less (engine side) clutch travel, which will make your lever feel a lot easier. The other cable mounting point will be closer to stock where you have a shorter stroke required during clutch release/engagement, but more force required at the perch.


AS3 or ASV or a Chinese generic I have, one of the three had two different attachment points for the handlebar end of the clutch cable so you can change the leverage. Sorry I don't have a better answer for you.
On the KDX engine, people previously have just cut and lengthened the clutch release arm on the engine / gearbox / clutch case where the cable attaches, adding about 7mm or so of metal to it and welding it back together after cutting it in the middle.

Remember Molly grease on the pivot points, don't use ordinary grease

Thanks for the info

I'm going to go with this one

https://www.motosport.com/pro-taper-pro ... -X001-Y001

It'll sure be better than what I got!