Panthera E-Start Photos/ Installation pictures.

[billie_morini]

Starter kit on bench pre-assembly and installed. Also, provided parts list. The installation is a snap, especially the mechanical components. All components are well made.

Wiring took longer because I experimented with how I wanted route wires. By the way, the wiring harness has a very nice, thick sheath that should prove very durable.

[billie_morini]

You will need a flywheel holder to remove the flywheel nut. You do NOT remove the flywheel. You do NOT use the original flywheel nut. You will use a modified nut provided in the starter kit.

You do NOT need a lift, but even an inexpensive lift like this one makes dirt bike maintenance much easier.

[billie_morini]

I measured the depth between the main gear face and the Figure 8-shaped gasket surface using the same method used by Molly’s. I probably would have made this much more difficult on myself if Molly’s didn’t show me a better method. I made several measurements that averaged 19.56 mm. This is effectively the same as Molly’s reported measurement of 19.58 mm

[billie_morini]

Following measurement verification, you pour the transmission fluid in. My finger and funnel point to where to pour it in. Additionally, one photo shows you the ATF that I used. There were two unopened bottles of this on my garage shelf, so shopping was not necessary. The instructions say you need 300 ml of fluid. My starter system was filled to the filling port with 275 ml of fluid.

Following the first ride with starter use, the fluid will be replaced. The instructions advise removing the starter housing cover to facilitate more thorough cleaning using brake cleaner or equivalent degreaser. It’s my intention to do this because the starter system is not inexpensive.

[billie_morini]

I’m presently running a total loss system for the starter. I already had a total loss system for all the street legal lighting for everything except the headlight. The headlight still runs on the original lighting coil.

Eventually, I’ll get a regulator-rectifier to charge the batteries for starter system and street legal lighting. Most likely, will pare batteries down to only the Antigravity XPS SC-1 lithium battery. The smaller blue Tusk battery is Ni-CAD and powers the lighting harness the previous owner purchased from Tusk.

[billie_morini]

I temporarily placed the batteries in the air box Panthera battery tray. Once field testing proof is in-hand, I’ll weld some tabs to the frame behind the left-hand number plate so that it is possible to bolt an aluminum plate and battery box in this location. The Antigravity battery is surprisingly small and light.

You may notice the OEM regulator is located behind the aft rail and the CDI is located forward of the air box. These locations are used because I modified the OEM seat pan. My modified seat pan is relatively flat because I removed the “raised rectangle” that’s not felt by your butt because the OEM seat foam is a mile thick. I carved the foam seat way down and have a low, flat seat. The seat pan was reinforced after cutting out the “raised rectangle” using fiberglass mat & resin (don’t remember if I used poly or epoxy resin).

You can see the two charging “pig tails” tails for the two batteries in the airbox. This photo reminds me I need to cap the square to keep the contacts dry and clean.

[billie_morini]

This video shows me bench testing the Panthera harness, including solenoid using the selected Antigravity battery. The “device” in this test is a 12V dashboard light for an automobile of something like that. I didn’t use the starter motor, but suppose you could IF the two gears in the Figure 8-shaped subassembly of the starter system were removed. I’m overly cautious with electric motors, having seen some burnout when not used carefully enough.

[billie_morini]

I wanted to keep the Panthera harness plugs clean for eventual use with an on-board charging system. Here you can see I used weather-capable shrink wrap. The two lead plug that lives near the starter assembly (behind the carburetor for now) required ¾ inch shrink wrap tubing. The four lead plug that lives near the battery & solenoid required 1 inch shrink wrap tubing. Notice how the tubing ends were pinched flat to seal the installed tubing. Do this while the tubing is hot. It helps a lot to specifically use weatherproof shrink wrap because it has glue inside it, partially for this purpose. One other note, I used shrink wrap capable of reducing 3:1 (“three to one”).

[billie_morini]

These photos show you where I located the yellow Panthera starter button. I wanted to be able to reach it with my left thumb when left hand is on the grip (and potentially holding clutch lever in). As Molly’s clarified, the starter button is always “hot.” There are no safety switches to prevent activate the starter when in gear or with side stand down like factory street-able bikes. I’ll see how many times I make this mistake and then, potentially install a safety switch to work with the clutch lever.

You may be curious why I have so many switches. The reason is three-fold. 1) My KDX is street legal, and therefore lighted, 2) the headlamp and all other street lighting (and horn) run on two different systems (headlight on OEM lighting coil & all else on small Ni-CAD battery), and 3) I like to be able to turn off ALL lights OR just run the headlight).

[billie_morini]

Similar to Molly’s, I used the starter to check engine compression before the gas tank and seat were re-installed (video). Similar to Molly’s, I also obtained 160 psi (photo). This is quite good for a KDX engine.

If you didn’t have an electric starter and want to assure a result that’s more repeatable than kicking, then you can use an electric drill or impact wrench (don’t pound) or similar motor to spin the engine fast using the flywheel nut.

[billie_morini]

This video demonstrates how well the Panthera electric starter works. The video documents two engine starts made in succession. Between the first and second starts, the engine was shut off using the red kill switch button located on the right-hand bar grip.

In both engine starts, you’ll hear the engine start very, very quickly. This is because the little starter motor really packs a punch!

I’ll get a chance to ride in the next few days and tell you how much fun it is / isn’t. All in all, I’m anticipating it will be fun.

[assquatch20]

I love that they're sending a detailed parts list. I really need to get one of these kits.

[billie_morini]

I meant to include the exploded diagram with the parts list. So, it' here. The parts list. diagram, & received parts match (e.g., are correct).

The required toos list provided with the starter kit identifies an item that is not used. The unnecessary tool is a drill bit (e.g., 3/4-inch was it?).