I’m doing it all by hand.Yup, that is what I expected. Apparently the Electrofusion isn’t terrible though cause it’s held on for at least 15 years in this bike.KDXGarage wrote: 02:37 pm Jan 21 2019 Nice looking bike! Good luck on the work.
I think the first two versions of the manual show the wrong picture. The last eight are OK. Somewhere, I had posted on this before. You might want to search for that.
A Kawasaki Electrofusion cylinder does not have very much cross hatching new. If you were expecting "other brand" or aftermarket level of cross hatching, then that might explain it. I have had a new KDX175 cylinder and a new 1989 - 1994 cylinder. Neither looks like aftermarket. They are fairly smooth.
Here's a picture of my new 2005 KX250 cylinder, which is a newer style coating that they started on the 2003 KX's. New KDX cylinders look nothing like this.
20170118_173319.jpg
Cool, thanks. I made a cheap dip tank out of old plastic containers but this would be way better. I was thinking of a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner too as I could use it for cleaning brass and other things.ericr wrote: 05:46 pm Jan 21 2019 I just put up a post about my parts washer here viewtopic.php?f=77&t=23249 You still have to clean the parts by hand. It just makes it easier.
You don't have to remove the studs. I did because I was doing a bottom end and wanted to remove everything from the cases. Your bike looks like it's in such good condition, you may not need a bottom end. You could just plug up the crank opening, wire brush the studs and coat them with anything to reduce corrosion - grease even. If you decide to remove them, I reinstalled mine with blue thread locker.
Yes, that's the plug. You may need to heat the aluminum around it if it doesn't come out easily.
Sorry, I was focusing on your cylinder bolts. Yes, you do need to remove the head bolts. Look at my restoration thread on my signature line and you'll see my head bolts in a glass tray soaking in pink stuff. That's naval jelly. It's actually a brand name of thickened phosphoric acid.Vossman wrote: 06:04 pm Jan 21 2019Cool, thanks. I made a cheap dip tank out of old plastic containers but this would be way better. I was thinking of a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner too as I could use it for cleaning brass and other things.ericr wrote: 05:46 pm Jan 21 2019 I just put up a post about my parts washer here viewtopic.php?f=77&t=23249 You still have to clean the parts by hand. It just makes it easier.
You don't have to remove the studs. I did because I was doing a bottom end and wanted to remove everything from the cases. Your bike looks like it's in such good condition, you may not need a bottom end. You could just plug up the crank opening, wire brush the studs and coat them with anything to reduce corrosion - grease even. If you decide to remove them, I reinstalled mine with blue thread locker.
Yes, that's the plug. You may need to heat the aluminum around it if it doesn't come out easily.
So I can brush all the crud off the bolts, coat them in jelly and reassemble? I need to take them out before sending it off for replating otherwise they charge $$. They are in there good now, I tried a non marring wrench and got nothing. I’m pretty committed to breaking this bottom end open for new seals, bearings and a good once over.
