2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

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2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 05:34 pm Jan 20 2019

Well I’ve decided to rebuild the whole thing. Don’t have a lot of before pics of the whole bike other than this one
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It’s an 04 I picked up about 2 years ago for $900. The guy I got it from didn’t know much about 2 strokes so it was running pretty poor. Jetting was way off for Colo altitude but it ran. Had been in a few wrecks, left side was pretty tweaked. I gave it a good wash and rejetted it and rode it a few times over the summer. Started taking it apart last month.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 05:46 pm Jan 20 2019

I was really surprised at the condition of the bike when I started taking it apart.
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Most every part was original just dirty. There was a lot of greasy and dried spooge on the head and swingarm from the poor jetting. Taking apart the linkage I found them to be clean and well greased, these had been changed recently.
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Turns out the linkage and swingarm bearings are all fresh so that is good news.
Last edited by Vossman on 06:01 pm Jan 20 2019, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 05:58 pm Jan 20 2019

One of the first things I did was send the radiators to IWC in North Carolina. Brett does a lot of repair work and always does great work.
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He was able to straighten, cage brace and pressure test both radiators for $200.
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 06:23 pm Jan 20 2019

This morning I started on the motor. I looked through the exhaust and saw there was no cross hatch on the cylinder and noticeable wear and blow by on the piston so I figured the top end has never been apart.
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Head looks untouched, was hoping it had been modded by RB Designs but it doesn’t look like it’s been changed at all.
Piston is worn with some blow by, time for a new Wiseco. Anyone know if this OEM?
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Cylinder is pretty good for 15 years old. Once I get it cleaned and all the bolts out I’ll send it to Powerseal USA for replating.
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Power valves will be next, wish me luck.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by TRUAX » 07:10 pm Jan 20 2019

Looks to be a good starting point for a project! Excited to watch your updates on it. Just started going through the bike I picked up as well.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 11:05 am Jan 21 2019

Got the power valves out, what a gooey mess though. Lots of carbon built up on the valves but the mechanism is 100% intact.
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Everything came out easy following the manual. IIRC there is an error in the manual identifying left and right pieces. I’m gonna go back through the site and see if I can find it. Anyway, the parts in the first pic are correctly laid out, right sides together etc. they soaking in degreaser for a few minutes right now.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by pumpguy » 12:44 pm Jan 21 2019

Nice going! Looks like you really lucked out on this one.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by KDXGarage » 02:37 pm Jan 21 2019

Nice looking bike! Good luck on the work.

I think the first two versions of the manual show the wrong picture. The last eight are OK. Somewhere, I had posted on this before. You might want to search for that.

A Kawasaki Electrofusion cylinder does not have very much cross hatching new. If you were expecting "other brand" or aftermarket level of cross hatching, then that might explain it. I have had a new KDX175 cylinder and a new 1989 - 1994 cylinder. Neither looks like aftermarket. They are fairly smooth.

Here's a picture of my new 2005 KX250 cylinder, which is a newer style coating that they started on the 2003 KX's. New KDX cylinders look nothing like this.
20170118_173319.jpg
20170118_173319.jpg (521.74 KiB) Viewed 1410 times
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by ericr » 03:38 pm Jan 21 2019

It looks like you have a great bike to start your restoration. I'm glad to see others taking this on - you'll have fun doing it.

Nice job on the radiators. If you feel so inclined, you can use flat-tipped tweezers to straighten the fins. It might help with cooling capacity.

I'm pretty sure that's the OEM piston. Mine had the same cross-hatching in the casting. That white coating on your head studs is "white rust". It's the remnants of the zinc plating. You can wire-wheel it off, but then you'll have raw steel that will rust. Soak them in naval jelly or phosphoric acid to create a protective black oxide coating. To get the studs out, I found a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone to be the best penetrant. Then really tighten a pair of jam nuts on the studs, heat the area of the case around the studs, and use an impact wrench. Don't forget to remove the coolant jacket plug before sending the cylinder off for replating.

I'm not familiar with Powerseal, but I'm really happy with the work Millennium did on my cylinder. I sent my Wiseco piston to them with the cylinder which they used for perfect clearance.

Oven cleaner works great for the steel KIPS components. Don't get it on the aluminum parts though.

Do you have a parts washer? You'll definitely need one.
Last edited by ericr on 05:07 pm Jan 21 2019, edited 1 time in total.
'02 KDX 200, '02 KDX 220 - My restoration thread... viewtopic.php?f=77&t=22266

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by KDXGarage » 04:44 pm Jan 21 2019

Oh yeah! The radiators do look awesome!

Great post, ericr
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 05:25 pm Jan 21 2019

Ericr, thanks for the info. What’s a parts cleaner? :roll: I’m doing it all by hand.
You addressed my question I was gonna ask on the cylinder studs, they are soaking in Kroil for now. I see the white stuff comes off with oil and a little brushing. I may just replace them all if it’s gonna be an continuing issue with rust. Never used naval jelly. Do I need the threadlock them back in?
Is the coolant jacket plug the large allen plug on the bottom of the exhaust outlet? That was gonna be my second question.
Measured the piston and it’s still within the service limits as are the rings. Don’t have the tool to measure the cylinder bore. Powerseal and Millenium are the two go to companies for replating. I’ve never done it but they both are highly recommended on the TT Forum. I was told to send them the piston like you said too.
I’m gonna try the oven cleaner next weekend. I was able to get most of the crap off the aluminum parts with a mild degreaser and a light brushing and a good wash in water afterwards.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 05:33 pm Jan 21 2019

KDXGarage wrote:
02:37 pm Jan 21 2019
Nice looking bike! Good luck on the work.

I think the first two versions of the manual show the wrong picture. The last eight are OK. Somewhere, I had posted on this before. You might want to search for that.

A Kawasaki Electrofusion cylinder does not have very much cross hatching new. If you were expecting "other brand" or aftermarket level of cross hatching, then that might explain it. I have had a new KDX175 cylinder and a new 1989 - 1994 cylinder. Neither looks like aftermarket. They are fairly smooth.

Here's a picture of my new 2005 KX250 cylinder, which is a newer style coating that they started on the 2003 KX's. New KDX cylinders look nothing like this.

20170118_173319.jpg
Yup, that is what I expected. Apparently the Electrofusion isn’t terrible though cause it’s held on for at least 15 years in this bike.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by ericr » 05:46 pm Jan 21 2019

I just put up a post about my parts washer here viewtopic.php?f=77&t=23249 You still have to clean the parts by hand. It just makes it easier.

You don't have to remove the studs. I did because I was doing a bottom end and wanted to remove everything from the cases. Your bike looks like it's in such good condition, you may not need a bottom end. You could just plug up the crank opening, wire brush the studs and coat them with anything to reduce corrosion - grease even. If you decide to remove them, I reinstalled mine with blue thread locker.

Yes, that's the plug. You may need to heat the aluminum around it if it doesn't come out easily.
Last edited by ericr on 05:48 pm Jan 21 2019, edited 1 time in total.
'02 KDX 200, '02 KDX 220 - My restoration thread... viewtopic.php?f=77&t=22266

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 05:48 pm Jan 21 2019

I shot an email to RB Designs asking him to let me know when he was back doing his magic. I figured I’d pick up a new OEM carb with his mod and let him work on the head. He didn’t give me an exact date I could get a new carb but said he wasn’t doing 200 heads anymore due to the minimal gains and he said most of them had already been modded.
Thought that might be useful info for others in the group.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 06:04 pm Jan 21 2019

ericr wrote:
05:46 pm Jan 21 2019
I just put up a post about my parts washer here viewtopic.php?f=77&t=23249 You still have to clean the parts by hand. It just makes it easier.

You don't have to remove the studs. I did because I was doing a bottom end and wanted to remove everything from the cases. Your bike looks like it's in such good condition, you may not need a bottom end. You could just plug up the crank opening, wire brush the studs and coat them with anything to reduce corrosion - grease even. If you decide to remove them, I reinstalled mine with blue thread locker.

Yes, that's the plug. You may need to heat the aluminum around it if it doesn't come out easily.
Cool, thanks. I made a cheap dip tank out of old plastic containers but this would be way better. I was thinking of a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner too as I could use it for cleaning brass and other things.

So I can brush all the crud off the bolts, coat them in jelly and reassemble? I need to take them out before sending it off for replating otherwise they charge $$. They are in there good now, I tried a non marring wrench and got nothing. I’m pretty committed to breaking this bottom end open for new seals, bearings and a good once over.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by KDXGarage » 06:07 pm Jan 21 2019

Hmmm. Thanks for the info on him not doing 200 heads.
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by ericr » 06:54 pm Jan 21 2019

Vossman wrote:
06:04 pm Jan 21 2019
ericr wrote:
05:46 pm Jan 21 2019
I just put up a post about my parts washer here viewtopic.php?f=77&t=23249 You still have to clean the parts by hand. It just makes it easier.

You don't have to remove the studs. I did because I was doing a bottom end and wanted to remove everything from the cases. Your bike looks like it's in such good condition, you may not need a bottom end. You could just plug up the crank opening, wire brush the studs and coat them with anything to reduce corrosion - grease even. If you decide to remove them, I reinstalled mine with blue thread locker.

Yes, that's the plug. You may need to heat the aluminum around it if it doesn't come out easily.
Cool, thanks. I made a cheap dip tank out of old plastic containers but this would be way better. I was thinking of a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner too as I could use it for cleaning brass and other things.

So I can brush all the crud off the bolts, coat them in jelly and reassemble? I need to take them out before sending it off for replating otherwise they charge $$. They are in there good now, I tried a non marring wrench and got nothing. I’m pretty committed to breaking this bottom end open for new seals, bearings and a good once over.
Sorry, I was focusing on your cylinder bolts. Yes, you do need to remove the head bolts. Look at my restoration thread on my signature line and you'll see my head bolts in a glass tray soaking in pink stuff. That's naval jelly. It's actually a brand name of thickened phosphoric acid.

To get the bolts out, I applied heat to the bolts and head, then applied my penetrating oil mixture. I think that pre-heating helps wick the oil down the threads. I repeated this several times over a couple days. I then bought a couple nuts from Home Depot to jam together on the stud. I think they're 8mm but can't remember the pitch. Tighten them really tight while still aligning the flats on the two nuts. Heat the aluminum with a torch around the studs and then use an impact wrench with a socket that goes over both nuts to loosen the studs. The nuts should not turn on the studs. I bought a cheap 1/2" electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight and this was one of the times on my restoration where it came in really handy.

I started my rebuild as a novice having never attempted something like this before. Just read up, ask questions here, and you can do it all too. Good luck and have fun!
'02 KDX 200, '02 KDX 220 - My restoration thread... viewtopic.php?f=77&t=22266

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by Vossman » 08:47 pm Jan 24 2019

First big order from RMATV/MC, lots of gaskets and bearings and a few cool to have things like the new bars. Got the order in 17 hours. Pretty cool.
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Been chatting with Ericr and he’s given me some good tips, got the head studs out no problem after soaking in Kroil, heat and the bolt over bolt method. Thank you Sir. The coolant plug is still in though, tried heat with a breaker bar and an impact wrench. I’ll let it soak more. I’m afraid to get it too hot.

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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by KDXGarage » 11:18 pm Jan 24 2019

The joy of a box of fresh parts!

It is really amazing how fast some RM orders can come in. One time I ordered a tire REAL early in the morning. It went from KY to north AL by that evening. I didn't pay for any faster shipping either. I am still amazed.
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Re: 2004 KDX 200 Rebuild

Post by ericr » 11:46 pm Jan 24 2019

It's like Christmas. Pro-taper, renthal - nice stuff you're putting on that bike. Before you buy more individual gaskets though, I would suggest that you buy gasket kits. It'll save you $$'s
'02 KDX 200, '02 KDX 220 - My restoration thread... viewtopic.php?f=77&t=22266

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