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Damned! Something is really wrong with my gear box! I can't shift from 1 to 2nd!
Quick desription of what happened
I was coming out of the turn and tried to upshift (at least I think) from 2nd to 3rd when I found "neutral".
(note: I find neutral sometimes between 1st and 2nd when riding hard but always thought it was because I wasn't engaging the gear fully)
Anyway, I tried to put it back in gear and it made that weird no, scratch that, WRONG HORRIFYING GRINDING noise like it was between gears...
I stopped and tried to put it back in neutral, and it took me awhile to get there. The engine turns ok, but everytime I try to put it back in gear, it makes a not so good noise so I stopped and a buddy towed me back to the truck.
I drained the oil, there is a bit of sparkly thingy in it not much, but I can see something in there.

I then checked the shifter and it looks like I can't go up because the shifter hit the case (the part that connect to the spline).






The thing is I did not crash on this side. It seems like the shifter went up on the spline. my boot fits the same when I'm on the pegs though (we all know how buttery they are so maybe I bent it back to where it was)
It's almost like the spline rotated inside the gear box.

Ok, i removed the shifter and re-installed so that it wouldn't hit the case, I can shift ( bike not running) BUT they're harsh and noisy (could be because I haven't refilled the oil, but it's louder and harsher than I would expect) and doesn't look like the gear would stay on, I also have to rock the bike back and forth in order to shift them but I think it's normal when the bike is not runnig.

I don't know if it all makes sense to any of you but that's the best I can describe it.

Sorry for the long confusing post but I feel like I'm in DEEP trouble there, just trying to be as thourough as possible
Please help , I got the feeling this is REALLY not good and I'll have to split the case to get to the tranny (and when I say "I" i meant Fredette cuz I feel this one is WAY beyond my skills...

Wilf

The first thing you might want to check is the shifting shaft spring. KDX's sometimes break the shifting shaft return spring located on the end of the shaft at the clutch side of the bike. If the mainspring is broken the shifting drum will not turn enough to engage the gears properly - false neutrals, mis-positioned shifter and gear grinding are all possible results. Happened twice to me, once with a KX and once with a KDX. IF that is the case it is an easy fix. Just pull the clutch cover to check. The false neutrals while upshifting prior to the failure could have been due to the spring weakening before it let go entirely - let's hope so!

I wish I had video of that honda pulling you back to the parking lot I really hope it's something simple and an easy fix so we can get back on the trails again soon. Better yet I wish I had video of that honda pulling a certain ktm back to safety instead

rusty_chain wrote:I wish I had video of that honda pulling you back to the parking lot I really hope it's something simple and an easy fix so we can get back on the trails again soon. Better yet I wish I had video of that honda pulling a certain ktm back to safety instead

I "forgot " to put my cam on , no evidence of anything, there you go so I don't know what you're talkin' about

kawagumby Are you talking about 92144A?



Cuz it's not the problem.

No...the physical end of your shifting rod - the opposite end to that which your shift lever is attached to... is located within the clutch cover just aft of the clutch itself. The spring wraps around the shift shaft and has two protruding tangs which interact with the shift drum that, in turn, determines what gear you are in. You need to remove the clutch cover to expose the clutch, the shifing drum, the kick starter assy, etc.

Kawasaki usually refers to the whole assy as a "gear change mechanism".

Even if it is not the spring, it could be the lever itself that has moved that is spot welded to the end of the shaft. In any case that area is first suspect and is an easy look-see.

Are you talking about this 92145

yes

I found this



and it came from the gear of the clutch basket (1 tooth is grinded pretty good)? (part #13095 HOUSING-COMP-CLUTCH $210 OOUCH! This sucks! I wonder if they take that under waranty?)
I can't pull the clutch tonight but will try later to see the extend of the damages there.

The outside of the clutch is also scarred:





What could cause this??? Shifting without the clutch? Bad oil?
I still don't understand why the gear won't engage prperly and stay on though.
I need to check the diagram more and try to make sense of it. Hopefully it'll make more sense when I remove the clutch and inspect the rest of the shaft and springs.

Here is a pic of the spring at the end of the shaft, it seemed in an odd position and coiled "weird"



Thoughts?

ALL OF THEM ARE LIKE THAT! seriously! It's just machining marks...

This is your kickstarter shaft.... looks fine...

[quote="Indawoods"]This is your kickstarter shaft.... looks fine...

i knew that, been a long day

hijak: nice pancake rabbit Inda

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Indawoods wrote:This is your kickstarter shaft.... looks fine...

Sorry to Hijack but I have a question about that picture. On my KDX if I kick down too hard/fast from the top without feeling it engage it slips all the way through without turning the engine over. I read somewhere that it was because of a spring? Is that the spring I read about shown in the picture?

No that is the return spring #8, the spring you are thinking about is behind the gear and ratchet pawl. Look at #4, this spring can get weak and doesn't engage the pawl 100% of the time.


Scheckaet
You'll need to get that clutch off to check behind it and look over the shift shaft assembly

I don't get it , I can't remove the nut on the clutc.
It turns (along with the shaft) but the magneto and the HOUSING-COMP-CLUTCH doesn't move???
How do you keep it from spinning???

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80elkster wrote:No that is the return spring #8, the spring you are thinking about is behind the gear and ratchet pawl. Look at #4, this spring can get weak and doesn't engage the pawl 100% of the time.

Totally sorry for the Hijack Scheckaet. So to fix/replace that I'm going to have to remove the clutch basket and both those gears? How hard is it too do?

How hard is it too do?

read my last post

scheckaet wrote:I don't get it , I can't remove the nut on the clutc.
It turns (along with the shaft) but the magneto and the HOUSING-COMP-CLUTCH doesn't move???
How do you keep it from spinning???

Put the bike in gear and lock up the rear wheel somehow. Typical methods are to jamb a piece of wood between sprocket and chain. Also, use an impact driver to jog the nut off.

scheckaet wrote:

How hard is it too do?

read my last post

Doh! I read that before I posted too... Actually what I was wondering was how hard it was for the whole 'fix' but that's darn near good enough! I think I might have to get some friendly mechanic help on this one (don't have the tools myself! ).

RE: clutch basket marks: yeah, mine's got 'em too. In fact, the snaps taken of the clutch basket for the online manual have those marks as well.

RE: holding the clutch basket still to remove the nut: it's a PITA. If you don't have success with "jamming" the rear wheel with a crow bar or such, get a friend to press the rear brake pedal VERY firmly (like stand on it) and then wrench it off. If it's the first time for it to come off it doesn't come off easy - kinda' like yer' high school sweetheart's clothes . . .