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I threw the CEL in my stock carby and I was expecting a distinctive hit like others have experienced, bit i felt no such thing. I DID feel very good bottom end power, It felt like a power mod right off the bottom. It might have just cleaned up my jetting or something, but I was getting some 3rd gear below-the-kips front wheel lofts. I still however did not feel that famous c taper hit, maybe raising the clip will help? I'm also afraid the DEL, which I also have (thanks to jeb) will be even less noticable.

The needle is only 1 part of the equation...

What is the rest of your jetting? Altitude and temp? Reed condition?

Jetting= 155/45 300ft altitude, 50 degree temps, stock reeds not cracked.

i've removed the snorkel, rest of mods are rev pipe and Q silencer.

Thinkng about buying the next leanest pair of jets, 152/42.

What did the WOT chop reveal?

Go ahead and get a 150 MJ and a 40 PJ in addition to what you plan on getting - you might need 'em!!

You'll need the next set leaner jet for sure. Buy at 150MJ and 40PJ like jeb suggests as well.

So . . . what became of the "no hit" needle?

Did you order some jets?

Don't give up on jetting, 2001kdx, it'll be like magic when it's right!

As smooth as ever jeb.

Problem is... RICH! This bike SOUNDS rich, I can hear it.
Still pleased with low end torque and performance. I'll hit the dealer up on the weekend for at least the 152/42 combo. I never jetted after installing the REV pipe - I might end up with a BEAST when I throw those jets In!

This bike SOUNDS rich, I can hear it

scheck, put a main jet 2 sizes too large in your bike and tell if it sounds different. It will.

So did you swap out some jets yet? I've had to order some before, but a good shop might have them . . . maybe.

I when to my kawi dealer, and they had mains in stock. I bought 152,150 MJ's. I ordered a 42 pilot, but they GOT me. $9.60 for the pilot jet.

Anyway, I put the 152 in, didn't feel that much of a difference. Makes me think the 150 will be spot on. I love the way the bike pulls now, strong off the bottom, and strong through the top. Still pretty smooth too!

I'll also have to fiddle with the clip. I am currently waiting out some white crap covering my woods

2001kdx wrote: . . . I put the 152 in, didn't feel that much of a difference. Makes me think the 150 will be spot on. . .

Try a wide-open-throttle-chop (WOT) with the 152 in place. It'll only cost you a spark plug!

I'm too much of weenie to hold my bike at max throttle and rpm for more than 5 seconds. I'm only afraid of a huge piston seize or something. It is tattooed on my brain!

On second thought, maybe I'll try it tommorow. I can to 6th gear, be going up a hill so i'm under a load. How many seconds should I go?

2001kdx wrote:I'm too much of weenie to hold my bike at max throttle and rpm for more than 5 seconds. I'm only afraid of a huge piston seize or something. It is tattooed on my brain!

On second thought, maybe I'll try it tommorow. I can to 6th gear, be going up a hill so i'm under a load. How many seconds should I go?

If you can get to at least 4th under a load, WOT, 5-6 seconds will probably do it. For a more distinct mark to view, go 10 seconds.

BTW - Do this AFTER the bike is warmed up. Thoroughly warm it up then replace the current plug with a properly gapped plug. Start her up, mosey to where you start your run, make your run. The chop: the throttle closed, clutch pulled in, and motor killed SIMULTANEOUSLY. Coast to a stop, pull the plug and cut the threads away. Don't touch the carbon deposit band and, if you can, take a pic and post it for us. You'll benefit others that will learn how this process works, too!

Another BTW - You don't have to get all the way to 6th; 4th for 10 seconds will be fine. It's not nearly as intimidating (at least for me) to do the chop in 4th rather than at 60-70 MPH!!!

Good luck, you won't regret it

Ok, I can probably do something like 5th gear under a load for 5-6 seconds.

How exavctly do you cut the plug apart? Does anyone have a picture of a plug w/ the ring?

put the plug in a vise and cut the metalic part (threads) with a hacksaw