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Putting together my clutch after tearing down doing a water pump rebuild, where tf do these things go? Concave large rings I believe there’s two

Those are the judder springs, very important for slow speed technical riding, refer to service manual on how they fit, I don't have a service manual handy to show you

kdxdazz wrote: 07:54 pm Nov 10 2024 ...the judder springs, very important for slow speed technical riding

Hey Daryl, can you describe to me why the judder springs are very important to slow speed technical terrain riding in particular?
I'd learned that I believe when you omit them, and run an extra clutch disc, the clutch is more grabby and instantaneous, but also when disengaging the clutch, makes the bike freewheel much more smoothly.

Does the judder spring's engagement allow for a significantly greater amount of modulation, therefore reducing the breaking of traction that may ensue with a more rapid engagement if theyre deleted?

The judder spring smooths out the engagement of the clutch, effectively making it less on/off and in theory improving the modulation. There should be a conical one (the judder spring) and a flat one (the seat). The seat goes on the clutch hub first followed by the judder spring such that the concave side is facing away from the seat.

Also, make sure you get the washer stackup correct when reassembling the clutch or it will have issues.

Chuck78 wrote: 12:20 pm Nov 13 2024

kdxdazz wrote: 07:54 pm Nov 10 2024 ...the judder springs, very important for slow speed technical riding

Hey Daryl, can you describe to me why the judder springs are very important to slow speed technical terrain riding in particular?
I'd learned that I believe when you omit them, and run an extra clutch disc, the clutch is more grabby and instantaneous, but also when disengaging the clutch, makes the bike freewheel much more smoothly.

Does the judder spring's engagement allow for a significantly greater amount of modulation, therefore reducing the breaking of traction that may ensue with a more rapid engagement if theyre deleted?

As bufftester said it makes the clutch less grabby, I spent quite a few hours taking them in and out and testing as I read so many things about just take them out, as usual it turned out to be nonsense, all Japanese bikes run a judder spring set up and for good reason
Just like a light switch throttle can become tiring so can a grabby clutch, yes not noticeable in fast flowing but manufacturers can't just make things only for fast flowing and the kdx is also a street registered bike in many and most countries so trying to make your way through traffic with a grabby clutch is very unpleasant
As you also stated removing the judder springs will allow the clutch to completely disengage with far less movement of the clutch lever but I could only see this as an advantage for people with very small hands , I have small hands that's why I can see the advantage
The kdx is known for having a clutch that is not great at disengaging, I don't exactly understand the reasons for this but I am getting closer, was working on my nsr150 clutch yesterday and discovered the steel plates are the same as the kdx as is the first narrow clutch plate that surrounds the judder springs, amazing Honda and Kawasaki have so many shared parts
I think from memory we are both the same age and it's around this age that you start to appreciate things being more refined and user friendly