KDXRIDER.NET

So a couple observations and a question about the rebuild of my 1984 KDX200 shock. The observations are mentioned just to help others who may be tackling this...

Observation 1: For some reason, my shock has a press fit cap, like newer models, rather than screw on as mentioned in the manual (It also has only one hole in the cap rather than two). I struggled to screw it off until it finally moved enough to see there were no threads.
Observation 2: Also, for some reason, my shock has two circlips holding the piston seal head rather than one as mentioned in the manual. My language got pretty salty until I realized there was another circlip!
Question: Since I am replacing the piston seal head, I'll need to remove either the nut by the piston or the clevis. The nut on my piston shaft has a plate over it, which is different from the punched threads I ground down on my 86 KDX. How is the plate removed so that I can access the nut? Would it be easier to remove the clevis and if so, how should I position the damping dial?
Thanks for any guidance you can give me!

Can you post a picture of the whole body and whole shaft?

Here you go - thanks for thinking about this.

Is the end of the shaft not peened over like the newer shaft ends? On those, I just shove some grease down inside to catch the filings and flat grind it down.

It almost looks like a Showa, where it had the reound needle holding portion at the end and one would have to grind it at an angle to keep the parts inside. Look on youtube for the Race Tech shock videos. The two styles are shown.

Someone on eBay has a shock for sale, showing the cap does not have the two holes.

Following. I just rebuilt my 84 KDX200 shock and something is wrong. Very hard with almost no movement!

How was it before the work?

I don't know if you are talking about mine but my shock got a new spring and while I had it off I put in a new head seal and oil. The bike is new to me though. I understand the revivor piston needs to be at a certain spot when adding oil. I don't have a manual that explains the rebuild procedure though.

The 1979 - 1987 manuals seem to be pretty cheap on eBay. You might want to look on there.

Did it move smoothly during the rebuild?

It seemed to but I went into it a couple of times trying to get it right. I'm pretty sure we put too much oil in and I'm getting a hydro lock condition.

I have never fooled with a piston reservoir. Sorry to not be of more help.

Well today I went back into the shock reservoir. Set the piston, added correct amount of oil and dropped the pressure to 135psi. Still not right. I'm suspicious that the shock may have been assembled wrong. Maybe a shim was put in the incorrect order.

perhaps blocking the ports?

rebound needle working properly?

Yeah, I think so. Tore it down today and paid more attention to the itty-bitty parts and what could have gone wrong. I reassembled it and now it's a lot better. I'll race it next weekend and see how it feels but it will likely come a part again. But for now it works.

Well I am glad you got it going. Stay safe and have fun at the race.

The shock worked "Ok" but it could be better. I believe it rode a bit soft in the first half of travel although the sag was set at 100mm. Does anyone know what manual (factory or aftermarket) specifically addresses the shock rebuilding procedure for this year? I doubt the factory owners manual would but if I'm wrong, say so.

I can't remember if the manual shows it or not. I know the 87 manual does.

What is your weight in full riding gear? You might need a stiffer spring in front and rear.

I already replaced the OEM spring with one (Race Tech) for my weight/riding. I think I'll just get a Clymer manual off evil bay, it wouldn't be the worst thing I've done. The shock valving seems rather primitive, I may end up replacing it with a new shock this year.

It is indeed primitive compared to today. I doubt it was cutting edge in 1983 when made.

I have never tried it, but have been curious about putting a YZ85 40mm piston for my '87 and best guessing the valving. Those pre-1989 shock bodies may not be hard anodized like the 1989+ bodies.

I cycled shock fluid through mine twice it was so gray colored and my shock was rebuilt a couple years ago.

My Clymer KDX200 Manual came in today but unfortunately it does not address the shock shim stack or valving