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I was all excited to come home from work and put this thing on...until I started putting it on haha. I struggled and cussed it out for a while trying to get it into both boots without the top of it hitting the frame. After a quick chat with Jared, I was able to get it on there. Its rotated quite a bit to the side, more than I'd like to see, but supposedly it will be ok. Now I can't take up enough slack in the throttle cable. I have the adjusters out almost as far as they can go on both ends and there is still a ton of play in the throttle. I even threaded out the little fitting in the cap that the throttle cable threads into and its still not enough. Seems like there should be a second adjuster, like on a normal throttle cable to take up more slack. Frustrated... going to mess with it again tomorrow. Anyone else have a problem with the throttle cable? Anyone get a cable with a second adjuster in it? Should I just send this back and get a brand new stocker from RB with his mods?

Did you adjust the middle adjuster too? The one in the top cover on the carb you'll want all the way down. Hopefully they started cutting the cables down a little...... mine was way too long, and I ended up having to space it out a little extra with a clutch perch adjuster

Regardless.... don't send it back. If you have problems, call the guys at Lectron..... they'll help you out until it's good to go. These bikes are still kinda new in the Lectron world so they may still be working out some kinks. They can make a shorter cable if need be

Congrats.

Give it time, Grasshopper.

Yea, I'm going to give them a call today and see what they think about the carb not being level (side to side) and a shorter cable, or one with an inline adjuster. The KTM installation video I watched from them showed the cable having an inline adjuster, I don't know why this one doesn't have it. Here's how far the adjusters are out, and I still have about about an 1/8 turn or so of play in the throttle:

Didn't someone in an old post say something about they had a different cap for theirs, due to KDX? Do you already have that?

Jason wrote:Didn't someone in an old post say something about they had a different cap for theirs, due to KDX? Do you already have that?

I think I saw the same thing, something about countersunk screws for the cap?

maybe this one??

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... it=lectron

Jason wrote:Didn't someone in an old post say something about they had a different cap for theirs, due to KDX? Do you already have that?

Yea they have to shave down the little rib/ridge areas (not sure what the technical term is for them) on the right side top of the top cover piece, and use a flat head screw in that corner. With that the corner will tuck right into that little dimpled out area on the bottom side of that crossover part of the frame. It's a tight squeeze but once it's in there it's good

Hmm.. thanks for sharing that thread. I think I may try to do the same with countersinking that hole and using a different screw. Really wondering if I could notch the bottom of the frame tube there, and weld in a half section of pipe or something to essentially enlarge that dimple in the frame and allow the carb to be more level. Just soo scared of it going south and ending up with a ruined frame.

I talked with a guy from Lectron yesterday, he said the carbs can rotated up to 15 degrees before you have any issues. He also said they no longer put inline adjusters in the cables :-( To get some slack out, he said to route the cable differently so its tighter. When I did, the tightest I could get it with the adjusters fully out, I still have an excessive amount of play in the throttle. Its ride-able, but it doesn't feel right (in regards to the amount of play there). I'm not sure if the throttle is bottoming out first, or if the slide is at the top of the carb when I open the throttle all the way.

I was looking at the package that the cable came in... it has a Barnettes sticker on it and their part number for the cable. I looked on their website and saw this: http://www.barnettclutches.com/cables.html. might be able to get a correct length one made with an angled fitting on the carb side and an inline adjuster. I will update how that goes. Also thought of adding a little piece of tubing between the adjuster and casing to essentially make the casing a little longer and take up some slack.

Also seems like the fuel hose supplied with the kit is bit too large to fit tightly on the KDX petcock nipple. I put a little spring clamp on it, but it wasn't enough. With the bike leaning on the stock kickstand, it just steadily drips out. I'm still thinking about how I want to correct this.

I will have to say though, despite all of the issues, this thing runs AWESOME. I know my jetting was off a bit before, but dannng is it crisp now. The throttle response is instant and snappier than ever and I didn't touch a thing on it. Even the idle was set right where I wanted it. After the bike started on the second kick, it would rev clean all the way up while it was still cold. It would never do that before. I don't know, its great. After taking it for one ride, I totally feel it is worth it to correct all the little issues. It just is pretty annoying to pay that much money for something and it fit like crap

Here are some photos of it installed. You can get an idea on the amount of lean in the second pic:





I guess you can see the custom case saver on there too haha its not pretty, going to make a new one eventually...

After thinking about it, I am going to order a custom cable from Barnett with the angled end on it, an adjuster, and shorter length. Also getting some different fuel line to try, a wide assortment of clamps, going to countersink the screw closest to the frame, and replace all of the phillips screws on that cap with socket heads (gotta love McMaster Carr!).

Hold on a minute....You shouldn't need to mill or countersink anything. Lectron has supposedly done all of the custom fitting work to make it direct swap. I'm known to be a bit OCD, but I try not to overact/over-react especially when it comes to aftermarket parts. In this case though, I'd expect better given the price point.

tropicoz wrote:Hold on a minute....You shouldn't need to mill or countersink anything. Lectron has supposedly done all of the custom fitting work to make it direct swap. I'm known to be a bit OCD, but I try not to overact/over-react especially when it comes to aftermarket parts. In this case though, I'd expect better given the price point.

This. And no adjustment on the throttle cable? Just “route it incorrectly” instead? Sounds pretty jack to me, especially given how much one of these things cost. Send it back.

Slick_Nick wrote:

tropicoz wrote:Hold on a minute....You shouldn't need to mill or countersink anything. Lectron has supposedly done all of the custom fitting work to make it direct swap. I'm known to be a bit OCD, but I try not to overact/over-react especially when it comes to aftermarket parts. In this case though, I'd expect better given the price point.

This. And no adjustment on the throttle cable? Just “route it incorrectly” instead? Sounds pretty jack to me, especially given how much one of these things cost. Send it back.

Yea... I've been thinking the same... but the bike runs sooo nicely with it on there, I can't bring myself to take it off. Going to play around and countersink that hole/shave some more down on the cap like I mentioned above. I had saw other photos of Lectrons that people received with much more of the cap shaved down in that one area.

I spoke with Barnett's about another cable for it. Its no problem for them to make a cable with the same dims as the I got, but with 1/2" longer casing (cable will protrude 1/2" less), an inline adjuster, and a 130 degree fitting on the carb side. Waiting till I get back from this work trip and I will double check my 1/2" cable length estimation and I'll order it.

Good luck with getting this sorted out. Looking at the pictures makes me think that a Lectron and a VForce reed cage would be impossible. They push the carb toward the rear by a 1/4" I would guess.

Cool. Thanks for the follow up.

John_S wrote:Good luck with getting this sorted out. Looking at the pictures makes me think that a Lectron and a VForce reed cage would be impossible. They push the carb toward the rear by a 1/4" I would guess.

It may not be out of the question, but I think it would be tighter. If you don't mind modifying the frame, it would be no problem at all! lol I am still considering this option to get better fit for mine... weighing the risks vs. rewards. The tube that needs modified supports the shock... not sure what type of stress it sees, so I'm a little leary to modify the geometry of it.

Also worth noting... thirdgenlxi told me that on his, the screw that I was talking about countersinking, fits right up into the dimple in the frame. Mine ended up being about 1/4" or away from this (towards the motor). Pushing it back 1/4", it may fall right into that dimple and fit just fine. Compressing the airbox boot some is easy and isn't problem, in regards to the length issue.

Where you able to figure out how to get rid of the slack with the Throttle cable? I have the adjuster all the way out and there's still some slack. I contacted Lectron and they said I should get the 8 mm cable. On my order form I said I had a KDX 200 so why wouldn't they include the darn 8 mm cable? I am not sure how to tell if I got the 8 mm cable or the 10 mm?

My only other option is to try and cut it and solder but I'd prefer not to do that.

Yep, I ordered the following "custom" cable from Barnett. Basically the same as stock, but with an additional adjuster, 1/2" or additional casing, and an angled connector on the carb side. Works like a charm. The inner wire of the stock cable is definitely too long, it will only get worse as it wears. I think I paid around $55-60 bucks for this
Disclaimer.... I now have this carb on my 2005 KX125 hybrid. Due to the height of the angled cable connector at the carb side and the tight space with my oversized tank, I cannot rotate the carb to make adjustments. I have to pull the tank and remove the carb every time. I can't even take the cover off the top of the carb to adjust the metering valve because it hits the frame. This detail SUCKS and its been driving me nuts...but, I think I have finally have the Lectron dialed in how I want it, so I shouldn't have to pull it out anymore anytime soon....hopefully!