Suspension and advice are needed please

[twostrokeheros]

Please tell me what I should do with my 2000 KDX 200 suspension.

I have no interest in the KX conversion.

I want to drop the bike off to a suspension shop, and I would like an idea of what to ask for. I know it would be beneficial to have the possibility of air valve at the top.

I would like to bike to feel light and nimble, without feeling like I am going to lose the front end. I don't have enough experience on other bikes or KDXs to figure this out myself. Also have not run into other KDX riders who could maybe offer advice or a comparison.

Making the move from my KTM 105 to this KDX. It is more comfortable to ride over long distances, even took it up to 70mph on the road the other day.

Thanks in advance. I have been reading a lot here on this form. Taking notes and such.

[doakley]

1. Get the correct spring rate for your weight in full riding gear.
2. Remove 3-4 shims from the existing stack in the bottom of the form. (Search shim stack mod in these fora)
3. OR, install RaceTec Gold valves.
4. Set your sag correctly
5. Send the rear shock to FRP and have them service and revalve. The front and rear are so related you can't get the full benefit of one without the other being correct also.

Your bike will now handle nearly as good as USD Forks and you will have spent almost as much (if you do the gold valves).

[canamfan]

I agree, get the race tech gold valves and proper springs for your weight in the stock forks. Make a world of difference. Service the rear shock or have it redone by a suspension shop.

[bufftester]

#1 above is an absolute must. No amount of suspension tinkering will make up for the incorrect spring rates.
#4 will then be very simple to accomplish.

IIWM I'd stop there, and ride it for a bit to see if it needs more work. Since you're moving up from a small bike I assume by "lose the front end" you mean it pushes in the corners and wants to wash out. #1 above is the correct way to fix that problem. Once you have more riding time on it sprung then you will have a better idea of how you want to valve it to adjust for your riding areas/styles. Correct springs will run you about $200 and a couple hours of shop time if you do it yourself.

A suspension shop will probably cost you double that for the same work, if you are not interested in doing it yourself.

[twostrokeheros]

Thank you, this is just what I needed to hear. I have worked on my bikes before, but never anything suspension related. I was planning on trying to source a shop to take it to. Even when the work is done I don't have the knowledge to tinker with the settings. Not as many people own them out in Southern California like they do Illinois. In Illinois they have a big following.

[KDXGarage]

Welcome to kdxrider.

Making sure everything is mechanically sound is a good first step.

[bufftester]

As Jason said, make sure you're not leaking oil through the seals and everything looks and operates correctly. If you have a suspension shop do it they should also be changing seals and bushing as well as oil.

Changing the springs is a very simple job that can be done with simple hand tools, it sounds a lot harder than it is. It literally involves loosening two upper triple clamp bolts, removing the cap and pulling the spring out. To really do it right you would want to pull the fork legs off the bike so you could drain and refill the oil and properly check seals. Even having never done it you could walk through it in a couple hours without working too hard. Rear is just as simple...pulling the shock is the hardest part.

[ohgood]

Please tell me what I should do with my 2000 KDX 200 suspension.

I have no interest in the KX conversion.

I want to drop the bike off to a suspension shop, and I would like an idea of what to ask for. I know it would be beneficial to have the possibility of air valve at the top.

I would like to bike to feel light and nimble, without feeling like I am going to lose the front end. I don't have enough experience on other bikes or KDXs to figure this out myself. Also have not run into other KDX riders who could maybe offer advice or a comparison.

Making the move from my KTM 105 to this KDX. It is more comfortable to ride over long distances, even took it up to 70mph on the road the other day.

Thanks in advance. I have been reading a lot here on this form. Taking notes and such.

Your preferred riding areas and weight are what they will ask for. Basically they'll spring it to your weight, and change the shim stacks to what they think will work for you.

The stock forks deflect a LOT and wiggle/wobble around. Going to a good diameter USD fork will really improve the front end. That's why so many people do it.

Good luck, it's gonna cost you at a shop

[twostrokeheros]

Like how much do you think it will cost for the front and rear?

Please tell me what I should do with my 2000 KDX 200 suspension.

I have no interest in the KX conversion.

I want to drop the bike off to a suspension shop, and I would like an idea of what to ask for. I know it would be beneficial to have the possibility of air valve at the top.

I would like to bike to feel light and nimble, without feeling like I am going to lose the front end. I don't have enough experience on other bikes or KDXs to figure this out myself. Also have not run into other KDX riders who could maybe offer advice or a comparison.

Making the move from my KTM 105 to this KDX. It is more comfortable to ride over long distances, even took it up to 70mph on the road the other day.

Thanks in advance. I have been reading a lot here on this form. Taking notes and such.

Your preferred riding areas and weight are what they will ask for. Basically they'll spring it to your weight, and change the shim stacks to what they think will work for you.

The stock forks deflect a LOT and wiggle/wobble around. Going to a good diameter USD fork will really improve the front end. That's why so many people do it.

Good luck, it's gonna cost you at a shop

[twostrokeheros]

#1 above is an absolute must. No amount of suspension tinkering will make up for the incorrect spring rates.
#4 will then be very simple to accomplish.

IIWM I'd stop there, and ride it for a bit to see if it needs more work. Since you're moving up from a small bike I assume by "lose the front end" you mean it pushes in the corners and wants to wash out. #1 above is the correct way to fix that problem. Once you have more riding time on it sprung then you will have a better idea of how you want to valve it to adjust for your riding areas/styles. Correct springs will run you about $200 and a couple hours of shop time if you do it yourself.

A suspension shop will probably cost you double that for the same work, if you are not interested in doing it yourself.

When you say "valve it" do you mean get the front done then ride it a bit and see if it needs more tuning? Then see how the rear feels?

My bike is all original. In any fork work I can always ask for bleeder caps to be put on right? Right now the forks seem really stiff. Especially compared to my other bike.

[doakley]

Bufftester is giving you some good advice. Get the correct spring rate in the forks then set your sag correctly. (Might need a different spring for the rear too depending on your weight.)
Then just ride the bike a while. Learn how that is working for you. Many people find this is all they need to do, especially for woods trail riding.

The next step would be to look into revalving the forks with a gold valve set up from Race Tech or maybe just playing around with the shim stack. (Research shim stack mod on this site.)

You should already have bleeder caps on your forks to bleed any built up air pressure. That is stock. You should raise the front wheel off the floor before you loosen the bleed screw.

[ohgood]

Shop rates are normally 65-100$ per hour.
Add parts, and expect to pay them $500 when it's all done.

[KDXGarage]

If you don't like the bleeder screws, you can get the caps. Just be sure to do it with the front tire off the ground.

Read up on...
Fork
oil seals
dust seals
inner bushings
outer bushings
correct spring rate for your weight

Shock
shock rebuild with new parts
fresh nitrogen charge
correct spring rate for your weight

If you don't have it mechanically correct with fresh seals, bushings and oil, then all the revalving in the world won't help.

Read up on the shim stack mod for a little help or Race Tech Gold Valves

On the shock, it can be revalved to suit your needs.

Don't run stock amount of preload. 4 mm is enough.