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Posted: 05:54 pm Feb 15 2010
by Tedh98


dfeckel wrote:Here's a question--I'm lacing up the 18" wheel to the KX hub, and I don't know which spokes go where. Specifically, the set comes with 27 "inner" spokes and 9 "outer" spokes. The 9 outer spokes are about 2mm longer than the 27 inner spokes. Anyone know where to put those 9 "outer" spokes? Do they all go on the sprocket side or the disc side or some combination?
What rim and spokes did you buy? I can't help you out with your questions, but I'm interested in how this turns out b/c I just bought a set of rims from a KDX and want to lace the rear rim to my KX hub.
Posted: 06:04 pm Feb 15 2010
by scheckaet
My 02 KX wheel fits my 05 KDX and vice versa...
When I re-laced my 01 KX wheel, all the spokes were the same length (warp 9 spokes and rim)
Posted: 10:36 pm Feb 15 2010
by dfeckel
I found a cheap DID 2.15 x 18 rim from, I think, a KLX 300. It had never been used, it was $25, and I figured it was worth a shot. If it didn't work, then I would just pony up for a Moose rim. I got the Moose 18" ss spoke and alloy nipple set for a 2003 KX 125. Turns out the alloy nipples were a bit too girthy for the holes in the rim--it must have used steel nipples originally? Anyhow, the rim was cheap, so I took a chance on just drilling the holes out with an 11/32" drill. It seems like it worked. The 9 longer spokes worked by putting them on the inside of the brake rotor side of the hub.
Posted: 06:41 am Mar 02 2010
by red-eye-righley


dfeckel wrote:Red-eye,
This is the later frame with the earlier engine--but there's just no way that the earlier E-series pipe would fit the KX frame--it sweeps up way too high.
Hi, Sorry Dfeckel - I have been awaaaaaay! No comms!
I see, so the newer pipe on the older engine fits ok (any idea how it runs?). I'm wondering now if I need to rather get the later KDX (more expensive generally and everyone here recommends the older engine for its smooth tractable power - one of the reasons I want to build this bike).
Cheers
Posted: 02:53 pm Mar 03 2010
by dfeckel
To get the newer PC pipe to fit, I had to make a hefty dent up by the upper mount to clear the KIPS actuator arm. I also had to cut the stinger off the pipe and get it rewelded at a different angle so the stinger wouldn't hit the airbox. I also had to massage the pipe to clear the left side frame downtube--there's hardly any clearance there.
Everything is getting welded up this week, so I'll post pics of how the pipe came out next week. I have no idea whether the mods to the pipe make any difference--I'm hoping not.
In retrospect, I'd go with the newer motor so you have a fighting chance of getting the pipe to fit with no mods.
Posted: 02:59 pm Mar 03 2010
by Tedh98


dfeckel wrote:I found a cheap DID 2.15 x 18 rim from, I think, a KLX 300. It had never been used, it was $25, and I figured it was worth a shot. If it didn't work, then I would just pony up for a Moose rim. I got the Moose 18" ss spoke and alloy nipple set for a 2003 KX 125. Turns out the alloy nipples were a bit too girthy for the holes in the rim--it must have used steel nipples originally? Anyhow, the rim was cheap, so I took a chance on just drilling the holes out with an 11/32" drill. It seems like it worked. The 9 longer spokes worked by putting them on the inside of the brake rotor side of the hub.
I just ordered the 18" SS Moose kit. Hopefully in a week I'll find out if the KDX rim needs to be drilled out.
Posted: 04:27 pm Mar 03 2010
by scheckaet


dfeckel wrote:
In retrospect, I'd go with the newer motor so you have a fighting chance of getting the pipe to fit with no mods.
I don't think it's quite that simple for most bike.
On my 02 I will need to weld a extension to the header to clear the down tube of the frame.
The procircuit seemed to fit better out of the box: mounting tabs and what not are close to the stock holes on the frame and I didn't seem to have any clearance issue on the radiator and KIPS, BUT I'm missing 1" or so to get the header IN the cylinder, it lines up really well but it's too short.
More or less the same with the FMF, but my pipe was so tweaked that I can't tell for sure until I get it back from piperepaire.com
I'll be using my FMF over the procircuit cuz it has more torque down low (so I've heard)
You need to be ready to do some custom work no matter what...
Posted: 04:46 pm Mar 03 2010
by Indawoods
Just adding an inch to it will give it allot more low end.... at the cost of top end.
Posted: 11:50 pm Mar 04 2010
by zz3gmc
dfeckel, gonna have it ready for Scrub Pine? Or will you be on the Husky?
Posted: 09:19 am Mar 06 2010
by dfeckel
I will not be at Scrub Pine--I've had a trip planned for that weekend for a long time. I will be at Sandy Lane and all the other runs this year. I plan to use the Husky for the sand runs. Deleware is the planned enduro debut for the hybrid--end of April. That will give me enough time to get the suspension rebuilt, frame powdercoated, everything reassembled, and do a few non-competitve shakedown runs to make sure it all works.
Posted: 08:52 pm Mar 10 2010
by dfeckel
Picking up the bike from the welder tomorrow night!!
I will do my best to post up some pics before I leave on my trip.
I've been browsing powdercoat colors--I think I'm going to do something a little unconventional. I'll keep you posted.
Posted: 08:59 am Mar 12 2010
by dfeckel
Weldy weldy...
To the powdercoater!!!!
Well, not yet. I'm leaving for a week tomorrow, and I don't think I'll have the chance to get the frame to the powdercoater before then. Plus, I think I want to put it all together first, just to make sure everything is right before putting a nice coat on.
Oh, and do you like my zip-tied rear tire? It's the only way to put a 19-inch tire on an 18-inch rim!
Posted: 09:39 am Mar 12 2010
by red-eye-righley
I like the damper mount, had that idea a while back and thought I was so clever and that I'd better do it when I do my KX200, beat me to it

Posted: 02:02 pm Mar 12 2010
by dfeckel
I was torn between using the bolt-on tower versus saving $40 and having it welded on. It took a bit of cutting and grinding to get it to the correct height and to sit flush for the welder, but it looks like it'll work well. If you don't want to spend 45 minutes cutting and grinding on it before welding, then spend the extra and get the bolt-on.
Posted: 02:22 pm Mar 12 2010
by scheckaet
is your bike lowered? Seems your fork tubes are really high in the triple tree...maybe it's just for mock up?
Posted: 06:07 pm Mar 12 2010
by zz3gmc


scheckaet wrote:is your bike lowered? Seems your fork tubes are really high in the triple tree...maybe it's just for mock up?
Thats the stock height for the 03/04 KXs. 15 mm above clamp. My 03 and 04 KX250s are the same way.
Posted: 06:35 pm Mar 12 2010
by scheckaet
really? I guess I'll have to be careful on my 02 and check it out before I go ride.
Thanks
Posted: 11:05 am Mar 14 2010
by BobbyZ
The progress is looking really good,I bet you are itching to ride the thing for sure.By chance did you ever get rid of whats left of the old kdx?If not and when your ready feel free to give me a call @ 609-271-9198 .I lost a ton of odds and ends for my old girl over the years of it sitting in my parents garage.I just Picked up a 02 frame from ebay and hope to have something pieced together buy the end of the riding season.If you dont mind me asking who did the swing arm and case work?I'm striking out down here and dont want to mess it up trying to do it myself.
Posted: 11:33 am Mar 14 2010
by scheckaet
Cutting the swing arm wasn't that bad, measured a lot, made a few calculations, checked my math a few times and then cut away.
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=
Posted: 06:42 am Mar 17 2010
by red-eye-righley


dfeckel wrote:Red-eye,
This is the later frame with the earlier engine--but there's just no way that the earlier E-series pipe would fit the KX frame--it sweeps up way too high.
Sorry Dfeckel, I didnt post the link I wanted to when asking my previous question (here she is...):
http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.ph ... c&&start=0