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Case came apart pretty easy, was my first one, only tools I needed was a crowbar, big hammer, oxy-ace torch.

That's what the previous owner was telling his buddies I think, not sure. All kidding aside, the 50$ puller tool on ebay worked good, cases came right apart, bearing stayed in the case.

I found it easiest to just find your appropriate socket slightly smaller then case flange on seal side, and just press the seal and bearing out together. I always add a little heat just to help things press smoothly. Don't bother with trying to punch out the bearing first through the seal.

Don't mind the china crescent wrenches I actually use them as a cheap dial indicator, to check out of round shaft ends with light, quick way to see if they need more inspection.

Sprucing up some other stuff while I wait for re-plate and bearings to come in.. figured i'd try a poor mans "jeweling" to see how it looks... not too bad.. I thought if it looked good enough, I would spend some time and re-do it properly... what you think?

Congrats on the work.

I have never seen such a polishing technique before. It looks pretty good. I like the swingarm better than the silencer.

MAN! That airbox. Jeez!

Keep up the great work.

Thanks for getting a KDX250 going again.

KDXGarage wrote: 11:02 pm Jul 18 2020 MAN! That airbox. Jeez!

Keep up the great work.

Thanks for getting a KDX250 going again.

Thank you sir!

I agree I don't like it as much on the silencer, and it didn't take as well as the swing arm did. think I will just polish out the silencer. Ill post up some more pictures of it, easily done if you like it. You can do it to anything metal..

Yeah the airbox and boot was so bad. It actually looked like someone took care of this bike and then a knuckle head got it and beat the piss out of it, zero maintenance, ran it until it wouldn't run and sold it. You can't tell by the pictures, alot of it came out already but the boot to the carburetor looked like he was running it with no air filter for more power or something, there was literally a 1/8 inch of sand and dirt caked on the walls of it.

I'm putting the engine together tonight, it should be back up pretty soon, I have some more pictures.

Millennium killed it.

Got the frame painted. Rebuilt the forks, stem bearings. Fixed the airbox, and fitted a newer KX fender, looks good I think.

Some new cables and parts bin levers

Looks better than good to me! I love lime green, so I may be biased a touch.

Brake calipers needed rebuilding. The front went smooth, the rear was a real treat.

Well, I guess I decided to paint it. I know it will look bad soon, but I dont like the super polished aluminum and the engine looked like it was made from 4 different bikes, so at least it will begin to look all bad in a uniform matter

Let the masking and corking begin.

Used Duplicolor Ceramic Engine paint, its almost an exact match to the bead blasted jug from millennium.

Of course my case has the stupid broken clutch cable mount, but I have a custom bracket for it.

Oh geeze why did I paint it, lol now it looks like I should just put thing thing on the shelf with a little light above it....

It turned out good, but yeah, pretty much putting lipstick on a pig....

Bringing a whole new meaning to "uncorking her"

KDXGarage wrote: 10:14 am Jul 20 2020 Looks better than good to me! I love lime green, so I may be biased a touch.

Yeah, I fell in love with the green when I was a kid, and nothing still looks as good to me...

It's hard to tell by the photo's, but I was able to remove 6-7 Big dents in the pipe. Compressed air and a torch worked very well!!!

If anyone is thinking about trying to fix their own pipe, I highly recommend it. I can point you to the gentleman that sells a well made tool for a very good price, and it looks to be use-able for many pipes, different sizes. I can also help with instructions if needed.

I have a question about the kick start assembly. I believe I have it right and I am trying to test it before closing right case and it seems to be working right however it clicks very loud when turn the engine over. Will this go away when the engine speed increases? It seems weird my whole kick start shaft is moving and clicking loud when rotating the engine???????

I figured it, some tiny dots on the pawl and shaft that orient the spring properly to keep the pawl gear up in the "retaining bracket" while not being kicked.

Is the spring suppose to have a pretty decent amount of force on it sitting in the idle positiion? I'm guessin so...

I was also wondering if anyone has had problems with the clutch nut backing off with no loctite or folding washer per manual...

It is supposed to have tension. Otherwise it would flop around.

You put the clutch nut on with no Loctite or folded washer?

I still got it apart, I just got done fabricating a clutch holder tool, to get it all the way to 72 ft lbs.

The manual doesn't show loctite or a folding washer just a regular toothed washer that fits on the shaft.. what should there be?

I'm doing assembly right now, im down to the right cover and magneto/stator side, making sure kick start and clutch assembly installed properly, I think im good to go, just wanted opinions about the clutch nut.

edit: speaking of which, are there any other problem bolts or areas that people have dealt with, that should have some loctite?

many thanks kdxgarage

It's mighty late for me, so forgive the short answer.

Maybe google loctite on a dirt bike clutch nut? I am thinking that was a common suggestion. I don't have the manual handy.

You are welcome. Keep at it.