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They were the cheapest and best looking knobies in my royaldistributing.com catalog. I figured what the heck at $57.99 per tire, but I've heard of people picking them up as cheap at $39.99 new.

Here's a look at it installed on the bike. And new chain. Tires are a bitch to install using screwdrivers! But I didnt want to wait until Tuesday to borrow tire spoons :)

Gotanubike wrote:Yup and if you have an E series struggling with stripping powervalves, I have a surprise for you guys in a couple weeks.

I have been in contact with Brock from BDK race engineering and he is going to put together and bushing adapter kit for for the KMX200 valves they machine and sell which are zinc anodized steel and never strip. If it works, he will put up a special listing for 89-94 kdx200 left powervalve kit.

Keep your eyes peeled in a couple weeks I will post a picture tutorial.

If this works out and is not too expensive, i'd think the e series would become a lot more attractive as project bike

Keep us posted.

He estimated the bushings to be around 10 euros. So with the valves being 39 euros, probably 49 euros or $65($72CAD) roughly for the left powervalve + bushings/spacer collars

Thanks for looking into that.

Gotanubike wrote:He estimated the bushings to be around 10 euros. So with the valves being 39 euros, probably 49 euros or $65($72CAD) roughly for the left powervalve + bushings/spacer collars

plus $75 shipping

diymirage wrote:plus $75 shipping

It is times like these that I am thankful to have help for my 1994 KDX200, in the way of parts bikes - 1991, 1992 and 1994 KDX200's.

You so could have sold me a shock then...son of a

Jk I am good to go

i put a set of those on my klr250. the bike still sucked. kenda makes a decent tire though

I take it that this isn't exactly what is to be expected after a full top end rebuild. Roughly 2 hours on it

what the hell happened? seizure? wrong size piston?
sorry to see that man.

Might not be so bad. Scotchbrite the cylinder and see how it looks, and check the piston to cylinder clearance and ring end gap.

No seizure. It runs great, I already had the bike half taken apart so I figured why not check the plating.

It is stock bore according to the seller and the receipt. Piston is wiseco, but I heard the piston-to-cylinder clearance is slightly larger on them because they are forged and expand when they get hot

It almost looks like 4 corners seizure but no air leaks and is actually running rich jets atm...

I'm gonna give it a pass. It just looks like the cross hatching wearing down, but wonder why it is wearing down so harshly in some spots. Or the opposite, and those dark strips are where the rings are not contacting the cylinder wall? Possibly some raised areas around the porting that ate the rings.

are you gonna run it like that?
Something is not right, looks like the plating is gone in some spots. or is it piston aluminium deposit?
Could it be too much side to side and up and down play in the crank?
just wondering.

Looks to me more like there is some compression bypass underneath the rings??

The plating was there before I installed it.

There is a bit of side to side play in the piston rod. No up and down, I took note of that when installing the new piston.

Tried a once over with some scotch brite and 2 stroke oil. The diamond honing is still there. I guess it's just the rings setting in. Can't feel any scrape or scuff with my fingernail

Run it.

I have no explanation, but every replated cylinder I've ran shows marks like that around 2-4 hours of run time. Thumpertalk is full of panic'd posts of people seeing the same thing.


Oh yea, and Trekmaster rear, decent tire. Great tire for the price.
Trekmaster front?

My last front tire that I loved was a Kenda Southwick II. DOT approved as well, I have no idea how. Straight up sand tire that was predictable on everything and lived a long and happy life.

Looks like no marks on the pistons at all so I'd ditto what Adam said. Curious, what breakin method did you use, and what breakin method are all of these peeps on TTalk using? Slow or Fast? I break in all my (bike) engines hard. In a kart on a track, I used to be able to feel the ring seat.

I ride my bike pretty hard but maybe it needs a slightly longer warm-up period because of the aluminum forged piston

It will break-in faster if you don't use synthetic oil till the rings fully seat.
I once threw away a Kenda rear knobby because it was way too slick on hard ground, dangerously so.
I don't remember which model it was.

The Kenda trakmaster rear, I was really impressed with in the mud. My brother and his friend on new bridgestones were getting hung up and flinging mud everywhere, I just took the tough sections nice and slow and had no trouble...

Also the 155/45 jets made a very noticeable difference. Much less hesitation on heavy throttle. Plug colour is looking a little more healthy

Jaguar wrote:It will break-in faster if you don't use synthetic oil till the rings fully seat.

That stuff is too expensive anyways..I run motomaster Formula 1 conventional