Ultimate woods bike for under $3000? No problem

[firffighter]

My goal was to build up a KDX220 into a total woods weapon and do it for under $3000. I added up all of my receipts yesterday and I am right at $2500 and have to say that I believe I have a woods weapon!

After 6 months of riding and racing this bike, I am so impressed by it's versitility and surprising performance. I have put it through a full on 100 mile desert race, a 70 mile harescramble, a couple enduros, as well as 6-7, 30 mile+ trail rides through very nasty conditions. It has performed flawlessly and has not even whimpered at any condition I've thrown at it.

After owning 2 KTM 200 exc's and a WR426 and an XR400 (with lots of mods), I can honestly say that the KDX is better, yes better, for serious woods riding than the rest. It has all the low end needed to climb up the nastiest, wet, rooted, rock infested hills, and still has enough top end to hit the open desert stuff. I does not tire me out, and can be ridden all day a gear higher, lugging along with no problems.

So, my 220 suits me just fine.

[Indawoods]

What?

You don't follow crowds and buy a bike that isn't versatile and costs thousands and thousands of dollars?

I have never wanted anything else after getting a KDX... it is everything I have always wanted and needed in a bike. Just about as perfect as a dirt bike can be... to me anyway.

[Jeb]

I haven't put my kdx through quite the paces that firffighter has, and I haven't owned that many "woods" bikes either, but it's a genuinely great machine.

In it's current form (with the mods) it certainly is a better bike than I am a rider.

Very underrated.

[firffighter]

Well it certainly isnt the sexiest choice out there, but it gets the job done for sure.

If I were to get serious about the racing, then it woulnt be the bike I would own, but for casual to serious trail riding, and occasional races, it is darn near perfect.

I also love the looks on folks faces when you go by them in a race on the "ancient technology" "outdated" KDX.


BTW, I would like to do a XR250 project someday. A 280 kit, pumper carb and assorted other goodies would make it a cool CRF beater.

[kawagumby]

I had been racing open-class bikes in hare scrambles for about 2 years when I bought a like-new 1980 Suzuki PE175 from Geoff Fox. It was so much fun to ride that I thought I'd enter it in a race - and when I finished second in class - with energy to spare, I was permanenty hooked on small bore enduro bikes. - my next bike was a shiney new air-cooled KDX200 with a front disk brake. Whoa, what stopping power, even in water! I've yet to find a better all-round machine that is fun to ride.

Stick some USD's on that front end and find total consciousness!

[firffighter]

To be honest, I kinda like the conventionals. Call me weird, but I think conventionals are hard to beat in the woods. My KDX forks work better in the woods than my USD WP's on my KTM. My first KTM had conventionals as well and I loved them for the woods.

I think the KDX forks soak up the woods obstacle pretty well. I'll admit, they wallow at speed, but most of my riding is not at speed.

I think with a stabilizer, I would have the best of both worlds. Soft forks for woods, and stabilizer for high speed stuff.

As for wallowing, I guess I'll just wick the throttle and keep the front end up.

[kawagumby]

Your not weird, you just haven't experienced a properly set-up set of USD's on a KDX. They make the bike a different, better animal even at low speeds, evoking much more confidence because the bike stays very planted when turning during off cambers, rough patches, roots and rocks.

But, having said that, if you're satisfied with the conventionals. that's OK too! I ran the conventionals for many years without too many problems...but a major get-off that has left my back permanently injured occurred because those conventionals (with gold valves, heavy springs and a steering damper) flexed too much on a square-edged hole that caused me to go over a cliff. eh. sob. but true.

PS, a stablizer can't compensate for flex. Even if the T-clamp holds position, the bottom of the forks still rack around like Al Bundy's neck in a
Hooters bar .

[MX500]

I can agree. My KDX200 (even though its an 86 with outdated mushy suspension) is by far the best bang for the buck I have ever had. $450 for a very well running (Street legal) bike that only needs a rear rim, front tire, and needle valve for the carb. It has good low end power for its displacement, I was flat out amazed. My last bike was a CR500 and this thing still impressed me with its tractability. All I need is another ~$500 for a KX fork conversion and this bike will be good to go. I can already go as fast (but not as smoothly) as I could on my CR5 in the technical spots, and even tried some hairy trails where the CR500 was just too much bike and would have done the "spin, spin, spin, TOO MUCH TRACTION, LOOP OUT."

I can honestly say the KDX is the best all around play bike I have ridden to date.

I really enjoy my KDX, but with my financial situation I may have to sell it.


Previous stable:
1997 CR500, 1999 WR400 (420, ported, REALLY worked over), 2001 CR125, 2001 CR80 Expert

I've also ridden an ex-works bike 1995 YZ250, it was a blast but couldn't chug around like the KDX.





I say we all E-mail and send letters to Kawasaki (and any other of the big 4) telling them to keep the 2-strokes alive. I hate 4-strokes, they don't have anything on the KDX besides more maintainence, cost, and additional weight.

[bigene]

firffighter, hey, I just bought a new/leftover 2004 KDX 220 today and I need to know exactly what mods work best & what not to waste time & money on, like pipe/torque ring/rad valve etc. and what about this stuff about removing the air box lid? any help would be a great help. Sorry bout being so dumb, I've been on a KTM 400 4 stroke too long & missed the 2 stroke lightness & power. thank you all--Bigene

[firffighter]

Much of what you do to these bikes depends on what kind of riding you have in mind. I do alot of nasty stuff that would be considered Eastern conditions, tight, steep, rocky and wet. So, I built mine with that in mind. But, I also have found that it CAN tackle the open stuff with no problem. It really was not designed with the open terrain in mind, so you do fight the soft suspension and tight steering angle.

So, what kind of riding do you intend to do?

I'll be glad to help.

[fuzzy]

Coming off the KTM your're going to hate the suspension...Firefighter seems to like his forks, but the best bang for the buck is the USD conversion. Almost no one can keep the stock motor pinned through the woods so why start with power mods? Of course, they are fun. That being said most of the mods you'll see people talking about refer more to power delivery smoothness, and low end throttle response. The FIRST thing to do is learn how to jet your bike.

Rad valve - Don't do it, buy a V-Force III instead

Torque ring - Not really needed. RB carb/head mods will go light years further. Especially on a 220 as your 33mm carb gets 36mm treatment.

Pipe - Preference. Only thing bad about the stocker is it's weight, and it's prolly about 1/4 take of gas heaver than a FMF, but I'd get one after all of the above. Stock silencer is also a heavy piece, but never needs repacked and I like that

[fuzzy]

Yes, that is the poop.

[firffighter]

I guess my point is that the KDX was designed as a trail bike. I like the soft front forks for soaking up trail stuff, i.e. rocks, roots, etc.. Some argue that the bike is "unblanced" in stock form with the soft front springs. I am going to put my neck out here, but I think those soft front springs were/are meant to be that way for the bikes intended use. Again, for 1at -3rd gear trail riding and even enduros, the suspension is just fine for me. I have ridden many bikes that have USD's and so-called great off-road suspension, and my last KTM was even set up for my weight and terrain, but I believe they are all too harsh when it comes to soaking up the trial slop. Constantly deflecting off obstacles all day is more tiring to me than the wallowing that can happen with the KDX. Now, I would sure like the have some '98-'99 RM conventionals and foots set up looks like they would be great as well.

As far as performance mods, the FMF Rev pipe or Pro Circuit Platinum, along with Boyesen reeds and airbox lid removed help the bike breath and gives you a lot more get up and go. Add some woods protection and you have a nice trail machine that can accomodate a B/C rider. Add the RB mods and you get more go and crisper throttle reponse along with more top end. I like the RB mods because it allows me to ride a gear higher with no problems.

[Jeb]

. . . Almost no one can keep the stock motor pinned through the woods so why start with power mods . . .

REALLY? For some people maybe . . .

Rad valve - Don't do it, buy a V-Force III instead

Torque ring - Not really needed. RB carb/head mods will go light years further. Especially on a 220 as your 33mm carb gets 36mm treatment.

Pipe - Preference. Only thing bad about the stocker is it's weight, and it's prolly about 1/4 take of gas heaver than a FMF, but I'd get one after all of the above. Stock silencer is also a heavy piece, but never needs repacked and I like that

+1 on all of this . . . I do like my PC silencer, though, even if I have to repack it, but it did seem to not have the impact that most of the other mods had.

[bigene]

thanks guys for the info, I live in minnesota and ride lots of single track and a couple of harescrambles a year. I'm 5'8" & about 180lbs w/o gear and a "c" rider. I love the KTM but It's a little heavy and besides, a 400 has almost too much power & girth for tight woods riding. I just wanted to open her up and let her run like it was meant to- not how the GOVENMENT thinks it should run-i.e lean & weak. I'm keeping the KTM cause its liscensed & paid for & fast. thanks for any more info you guys could share-- bigene

[kawagumby]

I am going to put my neck out here, but I think those soft front springs were/are meant to be that way for the bikes intended use. Again, for 1at -3rd gear trail riding and even enduros, the suspension is just fine for me. I have ridden many bikes that have USD's and so-called great off-road suspension, and my last KTM was even set up for my weight and terrain, but I believe they are all too harsh when it comes to soaking up the trial slop. Constantly deflecting off obstacles all day is more tiring to me than the wallowing that can happen with the KDX. Now, I would sure like the have some '98-'99 RM conventionals and foots set up looks like they would be great as well.

Not to beat this subject to death; but I've got to tell you...the USD's won't deflect any more that the conventionals given the same damping and spring rates. They would respond the same way with less deflection, even at low speeds, because they don't have the torsional recoil that the stock units have when they flex - and flex they do, even in first-gear rough terrain.
I'm not really arguing with your need for self-flagellation (just kidding) but I've had over a dozen KDX's and a USD installation does so much more for the bike, in terms of overall speed and control between point A and point B, than any other mod - by far IMO. But again, a suspension is only as good as its tuning.

The only exception to the USD rule I can recall was about a decade ago when one or two Suzuki factory enduro riders preferred the conventionals over the USD's because the USD's were too stiff with that year's stiff frame design. But, those conventionals were nothing like the KDX units which, unfortunately, are obviously old left-over drop-off landing gear from WWII one-way Japanese kamakazi planes.