brake pads

[scheckaet]

I dunn why but I go through rear break pads like nobody's business
Less than a 100 miles and they're toast!
I tried the tusk, the sinterd one last a bit longer in the mud than the carbon one. (They do fine in dry condition.)
Today went for a 35 miles loop in fairly muddy condition (Mud, sand...)with brand new set of EBC, and they're 1/2 done .
I replaced my rotor with a KX one cuz my old one were grooved and thought it would help. It did a little but this seems odd that I eat brakes like crazy. I'm hard on both brakes, but I don't think I "drag" them either.
Any suggestion?

Thx

Wilf

[skythrasher]

I have not found any pads that have very good life in the mud. Best luck so far with EBC MX-S. They come with brake pins as well. I was never what I would call a brake dragger but I lowered my pedal just a bit so that I had to reach just a little for it. It didn't take long to get used to and my pad life went up just a little. All the rain we have had this year has been hell on brakes. I am on my 3rd set of fronts and 2nd set of rear pads. I am picky on brakes and will change pads sooner than some folks. I also would check and make sure that the caliper is floating on the carrier pins properly. A little lube on the pins under the boots might help. I forgot to send the brake pad spring with your caliper and did not get it in the mail today earl enough, but it should be headed that way first thing monday. Our small town post office is not open as late as I thought on Sat.

[scheckaet]

no problem, I received you caliper today when i got back from my ride. Thanks
I managed to remove the old pads and installed new one on my messed up caliper last night, took a bit of "persuasion" but was good enough for today's ride. Maybe they're not floating enough and drag, I'll see when everything gets cleaned and back together.

[TWMOODY]

I went to Macoy Hatfield trails last week and smoked a set of the
copper color EBC rear pads in 140 miles. That SUCKS !
I'm going back to OE, they lasted forever it seemed like.

[Mr. Wibbens]

I dunno, I've got at least two seasons on my current set of ebc sintered pads

We ride pretty much all year in all types of conditions. Plus we ride a lot of steep downhill **** so I'm always dragging the rear

[KarlP]

If you figure out why you are eating up pads, let us know!

I was eating them up on the Hybrid. '99 CR250 and I'd get 70 miles in mud/sand. I figured the fact that I did not have the disc protector on was contributing to the problem. I got a new one and ate up another set of pads.

I finally replaced the disc and went back to OEM pads and new pins and all is well.

[canyncarvr]

RE: 'I dunn why but I go through rear break pads like nobody's business..'

It's none of my business...but check some things.

1/2 a pad in 100 miles isn't a pad problem. It's a system failure someplace.

Brake pins. If there is a divot in them..replace them. That divot will prevent the pad from moving in a 'straight' line..they will wear a whole lot more on the edge that CAN move more easily.

When was your brake fluid replaced last? That's an annual (at the least) maintenance procedure.

Recall the post of not too long ago...the brake caliper piston could not be pushed back into the caliper? Ended up being an obstruction in the master cylinder..the 'vent' back INto the MC rez was blocked. His MC problem was resolved by taking it apart and cleaning it. I would guess you could cheap that 'fix' by bleeding your brakes using the positive method..applying pressure FROM the caliper end TO the MC. Look for some detritus (junk) to be pushed into the rez..remove it with a syringe or the vacuum end of your pressure bleeder.

Or just dump the rez out.


You can find if your caliper is sticking with a simple test that will take only a minute or two. Ride. Hit the back brake. Continue riding for maybe a mile with NO back brake, check the rotor for heat. If it's hot...the system is sticking.

As far as OEM pads: They come as an 'assembly' complete with backing plates and buffer pads between the backing plates and the pad. With EBC, you either transfer those pieces from the OEM pads...or just ditch 'em. My experience is they (the backing plates and fiber pads) help considerably with overall performance. I've pretty much given up on EBCs because the OEM 'assembly' works better.


Oh...you can't file/sand the divot out of the pins and make it much better. The divot will always sit in the same place in relation to the pad unless you space the pin seat somehow.

How about those of you using the hex head (MSRs I think) pins? Who's got 'em?

Another 'Oh'....put anti-seize on those pin threads! Always use a good (not rounded/smushed) wrench. An impact is a good thing to use on 'em, too.

[trussell]

I have the same problem with wear, specially in muddy conditions, have also replaced the disc with a KX one, and it still wears the pads out quickly, i was told after i had replaced it that I should have gone to the solid rotor, it stops the abrasive mud and sand grinding away at the pads, if anyone has a solid rotor and it works let us know.

Cheers

Troy

[canyncarvr]

Here's an opinion for 'ya.

I tried a solid rotor once. Never again. Basically, it didn't work for diddle brake-wise.

And, yes...others here disagree...think a solid rotor is great. Considering what a brake system is supposed to do (brake things)...that a rotor lasts forever (exaggeration to make the point) ...but does NOT brake 'fer crap..makes it useless for its intended purpose.

Try doing a search on solid rotors. ...it's been discussed a number of times.

[scheckaet]

Thanks for the replies, I will replce the pins and see how it goes.

[canyncarvr]

FTR...who said to replace the pins? Not me. I couldn't reasonably say such a thing without seeing what yours look like. Maybe they're just fine.

Worn pins won't make your pads wear at the rate you mention. Pads will wear worse (not as long a pad life) with 'bad' pins..but not to the extent you report yours are.

I'd check the sticking part first (check the heat). That's free..no parts cost..and just takes a few minutes.

You can 'backflush' your brakeline with a syringe (from any grange type store) and a piece of hose in a few minutes.

You'll get it sorted out. There isn't that much to it (he said hopefully).