Progress on my 92 200 with pics - finished for now

[jeopardy98]

I started tearing her apart today. She needs a good bath and lots of TLC. I have brakes, fork seals, dust seals, oil, brake fluid, filter oil, etc. all on order. I got the rear fender, tank, carb, pipe, and silencer all taken off today so hopefully when stuff starts showing up I can be ready to use it. As I was working I kept coming up with questions and as I did I snapped a few pics for reference. Hopefully some of you KDX experts can point in me in the right direction. I do have service manual on the way. It should be here this week some time.

Here she is in the middle of the teardown.





The first problem I noticed was that he was running the wrong plug. No big deal though because I picked up a few spares. It didn't look terrible but there's no point in not starting fresh.



I know he was running 50:1 which is too much but this seemed excessive to me. Is it normal? (It's a shot of where the pipe meets the silencer and notice all the splooge on the airbox)



I also wanted some opinions on why I have all this splooge on my cases. It's coming from the thing in the second picture. (remember my manual is on the way so forgive me for not knowing exactly what it's correct name is). It appears to be coming directly out of the boot in the second picture and then it runs down the hose.





I pulled the carb and removed all the metal parts. Does the gold circle in this picture come out of the carb assembly? Also, are there any rubber seals hidden inside that I need to remove before dipping it in the carb cleaner to soak a few days.




and lastly, I have a few questions that don't have pics to accompany them:

First, how the heck do you all get the air box out?

Second, the regulator on my airbox lid has had both wires clipped so is there an aftermarket one I can buy?

Third, my FMF pipe is only held up to the head with two springs, one of which is missing. Is this correct or should it bolt up? I'm going to contact FMF for a replacement spring but I want to make sure I didn't miss something else.

Next, how do you all clean the oil/grease off all of your parts AND what is the best thing to use to clean the air filter? It currently has a UNI filter that is in desperate need of a bath and an oiling. I have the filter oil on the way but I need to clean it in the meantime.

Lastly, I purchased a few goodies off of ebay as well that I'm waiting on such as a new OEM kickstand for $30, a replacement rear shock for $35, and I snagged a complete top end rebuild kit for $70 including shipping. The kit comes with an OEM piston and I'm wondering if I should sell it and buy the Wiseco piston instead AND how involved is rebuilding the top end of this bike? I'll already have it mostly apart.

I know this post is way long but I have a million questions running through my mind. I'm sure I'll think of more as I sit here but for now I'll stop. I appreciate any tips, comments, answers, suggestions, or anything else that anyone has to add. I'm looking forward to getting this bike in top shape before the weather warms

[firffighter]

I'm also in the middle of a winter teardown on my bike, fun stuff.

I'll try to throw my .02 in on your questions.

-Spooge. KDX's that are not maintained regularly and are jetted incorrectly can spooge like no other in my experience. My brother's '99 KDX200 was purchased last Spring from the original owner, and it had spooge all over. We cleaned everything up, repacked the silencer (was completely saturated in spooge), re-jetted, put in a new air filter, and most importantly, cleaned the KIPS, which was a mess. We are both running Redline at 50:1 and have good results in less spooge.

-To get your airbox out, remove your rear fender and boot that goes from your airbox to the carb. This should allow you to turn the airbox inside the frame to get it out. It is not real easy.

-Pipe is held on by 2 springs. I have a Pro Circuit pipe which seems to fit a little better than the FMF I had on my '92 KDX200.

-I cleaned all of my parts in my parts cleaner and I use No Toil for cleaning and oiling my air filters. I have had good luck with their products.

-Lastly, I would go with the Weisco piston. Not as big a deal on your 200 as a 220, but I would go with Weisco to be safe. Top-end is no big deal.

YOU NEED TO CLEAN YOUR KIPS!!! I cannot stress this enough! Myself, my brother, and our local dirtbike store owner all ride KDX's and clean the KIPS yearly. You will need to take off your top-end to do this and it will make a huge difference in performance and the amount of spooge your bike produces. Get a service manual which is fairly good at guiding you through the KIPS and top-end job.

Hope this helps.

[kdxquebec]

I also wanted some opinions on why I have all this splooge on my cases. It's coming from the thing in the second picture. (remember my manual is on the way so forgive me for not knowing exactly what it's correct name is). It appears to be coming directly out of the boot in the second picture and then it runs down the hose.


First, how the heck do you all get the air box out?

Second, the regulator on my airbox lid has had both wires clipped so is there an aftermarket one I can buy?

Third, my FMF pipe is only held up to the head with two springs, one of which is missing. Is this correct or should it bolt up? I'm going to contact FMF for a replacement spring but I want to make sure I didn't miss something else.

re: spooge on case:

If you remove the gray plastic cap, you will see where this crap come from. Pretty sure you need a good Kips cleaning and a couple of new seals.Be careful when you will work on powervalve system.It is easy to break things.Wait for your manual.

re: airbox:

Remove the left subframe bar. Air box will come out better.


re: regulator.

Look for a moose regulator.
http://www.mooseracing.com/GLOBAL/image ... e&rank=100.


re: FmF pipe :

Your pipe should be hold with 2 springs and 3 rubber mounted brackets.


This thing will need some attention. Have fun during the process, be careful with flying bolts, ratchets, beers cans...THIS PORCHE IS SO CLOSE!!!!!!!!!!


Do you know http://www.buykawasaki.com ?

go to owrner info / parts diagrams / enter your model!

I think you will find a lot of info there.

[jeopardy98]

I appreciate all the help. I will look into cleaning the KIPS. I have the kit to rebuild the head so I guess I'll learn my way through it while I'm in there. I don't like how the buy kawasaki microfiche is set up but I do have one that I use. There is always good information there.

I guess I only need to worry about the regulator if I plan on running a headlight. I found one online for $19 at rickystator.com so if I do decide to run a headlight I will pick that one up. I might also add a vapor speedo since I don't have an hour meter. I run a vapor on my streetbike and I love it.

I should have the manual and parts rolling in this week so I'll post up more questions as I get them. I most concerned about cleaning the KIPS and changing the fork seals just because it seems like everything I have read makes them seem harder then I think they should be.

Thanks again for the replies.

[skythrasher]

If you have a manual and the proper tools neither the KIPS or the fork seals are hard to deal with. Just go slow and read, read, read the first time. You can make some of the tools, others are easier to just buy. Take your time on the KIPS and make sure it goes back together correctly. The KIPS when maintained will make the difference between loving the bike and cussing it.

[Mr. Wibbens]

re: I know he was running 50:1 which is too much but this seemed excessive to me.

Too much?

excessive?



re: The first problem I noticed was that he was running the wrong plug.

Which was a ___?

And you replaced it with ___?

[jeopardy98]

The splooge seems excessive but I'm now thinking it's more of a rich jetting problem. Too much meaning too much gas not enough oil, I guess I should have said too little, right? I just don't understand how at 50:1 I have so much splooge coming out the silencer.

I don't recall what the plug was but I'm replacing it with the stock B9ES. I'm also going to drill some holes in the airbox lid and change the jetting to what Fredette suggests with those mods. The bike already has an FMF pipe although I don't know for sure which one it is. I'm also going to use some Boyeson 607 reeds but I want to get the mechanical aspects of the bike up to par before I start modding it too much.

[Mr. Wibbens]

B9ES is going to make the spooge worse!

Need to run a B8ES

Need to sort out your jetting, premix mixture matters didlle

[RBD]

pulled the carb and removed all the metal parts. Does the gold circle in this picture come out of the carb assembly? Also, are there any rubber seals hidden inside that I need to remove before dipping it in the carb cleaner to soak a few days.

The float seat in the carb is not replaceable.

DO NOT put your carb in a regular carb parts dip, it will hurt the rubber seals that you can not get to or replace.

Yamaha does make a great carb parts cleaner that you mix with gas (and hard to find and get, it's with the special service tools that Yamaha has). It work great and can even make rubber parts usable again.

Ron

[jeopardy98]

pulled the carb and removed all the metal parts. Does the gold circle in this picture come out of the carb assembly? Also, are there any rubber seals hidden inside that I need to remove before dipping it in the carb cleaner to soak a few days.

The float seat in the carb is not replaceable.

DO NOT put your carb in a regular carb parts dip, it will hurt the rubber seals that you can not get to or replace.

Yamaha does make a great carb parts cleaner that you mix with gas (and hard to find and get, it's with the special service tools that Yamaha has). It work great and can even make rubber parts usable again.

Ron

Info from the man who knows. Thank you. I just pulled all the metal bits including the main and pilot and soaked those. I'll wipe the outside down with some kerosene and call it good.

Hopefully once I get this thing back together, I'll be sending you my carb to perform some magic on..

[jeopardy98]

Three more quick questions.

Do I have to remove the engine from the frame to get the cylinder and head off?

What kind of numbers am I looking for when I do my compression test?

If compression is good can I just remove the cylinder and head, clean the KIPS, replace the head gasket, and button it all back up with the same piston or should I change it on GP's alone?

TIA.

[scheckaet]

you don't have to remove the engine to remove the head or the cylinder.
Compression, I don't know.

[Colorado Mike]

Compression can read high from a heavily carboned head and piston, which I would bet you have from looking at the condition of the bike. Like has been said, check everything as detailed in the manual as you take it apart. Then reassemble with fresh parts as needed.

[jeopardy98]

So as long as the cylinder sleeve and piston are within their service limits then I can reuse the piston?

[scheckaet]

Don't know about others, but I've re-used piston (and rings cuz i didn't have new one and HAD to ride it with the goodies ) when I installed the RB goodies. It was the 1st time I removed the head and cylinder on the bike (had run 1-1.5 years from new) and it ran fine for another 9 months or so till this winter when I replaced it cuz I had time and money. When i removed it, everything looked good with very little carbon deposit, the cylinder didn't have any more scratch than 9 months ago.
But in your case and if it was me, I'd proly at least replace the piston, rings, needle bearings and wrist pin, bike looks like it had been quite a bit neglected. Someone very wise on some forum said this to me once: cheap insurance

[Colorado Mike]

there's a sleeve? I'm fundamentally lazy and missed that, but the manual tells you how to measure clearance between piston and cyl. if it's in spec, I personnally don't see merit in changing the piston. Do change the rings, and make sure the ring gap is correct. also if it really is a sleeved cylinder, you'll want to have it honed. If it's just a stock plated cyl, then you can read on this forum on how to use a scotchbrite pad to remove aluminum residue.

[AwfulSmokey]

B9ES is going to make the spooge worse!

Need to run a B8ES

Need to sort out your jetting, premix mixture matters didlle

Shouldn't it be a BR8ES ? i remember asking this question way back when and that's the answer i got

[Mr. Wibbens]

prolly

I was only concerned withe the "8" part, a "9" is just gonna caus problems

[kdxquebec]

What kind of numbers am I looking for when I do my compression test?

If compression is good can I just remove the cylinder and head, clean the KIPS, replace the head gasket, and button it all back up with the same piston or should I change it on GP's alone?

TIA.

You should get a number somewhere in the usable range.

119-185 psi.

For example, IF a compression test means something , I always get 180. Anyway,this is fun to to!

[jeopardy98]

The manual calls for a B9ES plug so I don't know what the BR is all about. Also, am I understanding you all to say that a compression reading doesn't really tell me anything? I'm going to pull the head as soon as my rebuild kit shows up. I'm sure all the pictures and descriptions in the manual will make more sense once I'm actually looking at the engine. I appreciate everyone's tolerance of my ignorance. v