I could use some help…

[Mid pack “B” class]

Well..

I pulled the old #5 slide and the 1173 needle from the original PWK 33 today,,, and wow !!
That made a huge difference !!

It feels like I’m getting pretty close guys..

I currently have a 42 in the pilot and a 150 on the main..

When I change the pilot to a 45 the plug is a little darker then I like.. And throttle is a little less responsive..

But when I change to the 42 pilot the plug looks about right to me but I have a lean bog from idle to WOT..

I have the needle on the 3’rd clip down position..

Wondering if moving it down one more position might help some ?


Just wanted to keep updating for anyone that’s reading this

[KDXGarage]

How is the air screw

[kdxdazz]

Sounds like you are getting closer, in regards to the lean bog first confirm fuel level using the clear tube method, make sure it's level with the fuel bowl mating surface. If that checks out then raising the needle should cure it
I have no idea how DEK needle became a thing, it's so incredibly rich, when it was recommended to me the bike wouldn't even idle with the idle screwed all the way in but I'm in a hot humid environment so maybe it is a good cold weather needle

[SpruceItUp]

Hey guys,

Just wanted to give an update where I’m at currently..

And also give another round of “thank you’s” to everyone that’s been kind enough to give some input..

I did finally get around to performing a (crankcase) leak down test. At TDC i lost 1.3 lbs of pressure at the 6 minute mark..
I performed the test 3 times just to make sure the results were the same and they are..
I used 7 psi for the test and sprayed and sprayed and sprayed and I can find no leaks of any kind anywhere…

I water bottled the crankcase vent tube and kept checking the radiator to see any bubbles but saw none at all..

Is this within normal specs for a KDX ?
This is the first one I’ve ever owned and my manual doesn’t show any specs or procedures for a leak down test..

Curious on your opinions whether to keep chasing the 1.3 lb leak ??
Or focusing on getting this jetting dialed in ??

Also I’ve emailed all of the resources that I know of and nobody has any 35 PWK slide inventory left.

The only one that hasn’t emailed me back yet is Fredette..

I haven’t tried running the bike since I started this thread and I haven’t changed anything in the carb yet..

Again !
Thank you everyone for your help !

This has been a long 3 year project that I’d love to complete and be able to ride…
For whatever it’s worth I had to ride the ol’ XR again last Sunday with the guys..
They all wanted to take turns riding it again,,,

I told em all it’s nothing different then your grandmas sofa
It’s big, it’s heavy, it’s really soft and don’t get caught jumping around on it or getting too crazy, cause that’s when you’ll get into trouble…

I’ll always be a 2-stroke guy
lol

Losing 1.3 pounds could* be a problem. I'm glad to hear you're getting closer, though.
If there is no visual leaks using soapy water on the external parts of the machine, it could be leaking from one of the crank seals. I always take my fly wheel off when I pressure test and spray it with soapy water as well. If nothing there, it could be the right side crank seal, which would cause a rich condition if* it is leaking.

Also, if possible, it never hurts to do a vacuum test as well. Sometimes a pressure test doesn't show anything while a vacuum test will show a leak. And vice versa.

[Mid pack “B” class]

Ok guys !
Wanted to give another update since I had a little time to work on it this morning..

I wasn’t feeling overly confident in my homemade leakdown tester and decided to build a new one with better components..
After testing it again with a brand new gauge and valve it only lost about 1 lb in 30 minutes..
Just to confirm I did pull the flywheel off, pressurized again and sprayed the case with stator removed and no leaks on seal or the case. I read somewhere on here of a thin casting spot on the 220’s and wanted to make sure I wasn’t losing pressure there.
But it held again and lost only 1 lb in 30 minutes.
First test was performed at TDC, and second test was done at BDC…

Moving on to carb adjustments…

I wasn’t really sure how to perform a clear tube float process.. I hadn’t heard of that one before and need to look into that,
I did end up adjusting the float about a millimeter or two..
I do think it may have been a little to low to be honest

So far the best jet combo i’ve found is 155 on my main, 40 on my pilot jet, air screw is roughly 1-7/8’s out..
The needle is still the OEM 1173 with the original #5 slide from the 33 PWK..

Bike is running real real close to perfect guys !!
My only complaint at this point is the typical 2-stroke stutter when I hold at 1/4 throttle for cruising..
Any movement at all and it clears immediately..

Would you guys says this is pretty normal for a 220 ?
I’m curious on opinions of a # 6 slide helping at all ?

I can now snap from idle to WOT and no hesitation..
Stall speeds under a load to WOT without bogging is pretty glorious
I don’t know what else to say about that..

One peculiar side note…
I ran out of BR8ES plugs to get a fresh reading and after searching the self at my random pile of lone plugs I found a BR9ES and decided for a quick plug reading it wouldn’t hurt
And maybe it’s all in my head but I’d swear it runs smoother on the B9 … lol
I switched back a B8 thinking it’s all in my head.
It’s not.. for whatever reason this bike runs noticeably smoother on the B9…
Just wanted to share everything I can think of so far, in case it’s helpful to someone else

[Mid pack “B” class]

Hey !!

One more thing !

A huge thanks to all of you for helping me on this !!
It’s been a 3 year long project !

And it’s amazing to be on the home stretch finally !

[billie_morini]

Mid pack, keep at it. You'll "get it." I've finally got my purchased 2001 BMW R1150GS running "spot on." This effort required 1 & 1/2 years. Now that works correctly at the factory baseline, I'll modify the performance a little bit. (You know, cause ya just can't leave things alone!)

[kdxdazz]

When you say stutter are you referring to the 4 stroking sound ? This occurs at an AFR of about 11.5-1 , if so I would probably try the 1174k needle rather than a number 6 slide, a 0.01mm difference on the straight diameter really is noticeable, the 1174 is different from the 1173 at half throttle so maybe an issue and maybe not
After rereading what you said you can open the throttle quickly with no hesitation which is great, sounds like just a hair rich at off idle throttle which the 1174 may cure
Once again before anymore jetting I would confirm float level using the clear tube method, it's even a standard procedure in the service manual which doesn't seem to get mentioned, plenty of YouTube videos in it, you can make your own rubber plug adapter from an old tyre valve as I did

[SpruceItUp]

Glad to hear it's running well!
It's good that leaks weren't the issue. It never hurts to check though.

I understand that feeling with the long project.. I've been working on my E series on and off for ~1 1/2 years at this point and have finally gotten it just about to where I want it. Glad to hear you're nearing the end of your troubles with this bike!

If I recall.. a B9 is a colder plug, correct? I run them in my 125, though sometimes I throw a B8 on it (for the riding I do it tends to help it not load up).
I'm no expert (clearly), but if I anything I would've thought it would run 'cleaner'?/smoother on a hotter plug like the B8. But if you like it more on the B9 I don't see why not! It shouldn't be a problem.