Steel clutch plate orientation

Discussion specific to the 1995 - 2006 KDX200 (H Series) and 1995 - 2005 KDX220R (A Series) models sold in the USA
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Micko
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Steel clutch plate orientation

Post by Micko »

Gday all, sorry bout this but I’m not too sure which way the steel plates go, sharp edge towards engine and chamfer out or is it opposite? Ta, Mick..
Micko
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Re: Steel clutch plate orientation

Post by Micko »

Also the conical jutter spring, cone downwards or up?
brademan76
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Re: Steel clutch plate orientation

Post by brademan76 »

viewtopic.php?t=24196
This link addresses judder spring orientation.

Not sure what you mean in the steel plates...
Micko
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Re: Steel clutch plate orientation

Post by Micko »

Thanks mate, just seemed strange as she slips under load on road and when I opened up clutch there is a wear ring on the steel clutch plate from that jutter spring so I assumed it was upside down. Clutch plates are new, new springs on the way. I suppose it’s meant to be that way then. Thanks, now I can put it back together.
kdxdazz
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Re: Steel clutch plate orientation

Post by kdxdazz »

Think from memory sharp edge goes in, also worth noting E series and h series have different thicknesses of clutch plates
1999 KDX220SR (KDX220-B5)
Micko
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Re: Steel clutch plate orientation

Post by Micko »

Yeah I picked up info on this site. H series 2.92-3.08mm, service limit 2.73mm. mine are 3.03. Thanks 😎👍🏻
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Chuck78
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Re: Steel clutch plate orientation

Post by Chuck78 »

One other thing worth noting, if you have a 1996 or earlier 200 H or non-USA 220 model, the clutch springs were softer than 1997 and newer. For the 1997 model year, Kawasaki switched to stiffer springs fir more clamping force due to slippage issues.
Even the 1997-2006 version springs may be fatigued snd weaker after 20-30 years, however. EBC and Barnett sell springs for our bikes, and I would assume both are stiffer than the OEM 1997-2006 versions, and I know the EBC versions are.
The stiffer springs may require an aftermarket clutch lever and perch that has a slightly greater leverage advantage against the spring, in order not to wear out your left hand if you do a lot of clutching in technical off-roading. Alternatively, you can also cut the lever that the bottom end of the clutch cable attaches to, and weld in about 7 mm additional metal to it, and then paint it so it does not rust. This will give you a greater mechanical advantage against the aftermarket springs as well, so the clutch will have a stock or even lighter feel, while still benefiting from the holding power of the stiffer springs. The downside is that you have a longer lever throw when gaining a mechanical advantage against the clutch springs.
'97 KDX220R - purple/green! - KLX forks, Lectron, FMF, Tubliss
'99 KDX220R project - '98/'01 RM125 suspension, Titanium hardware, Lectron Billetron Pro, Tubliss
'77 Suzuki PE250 & '83 Suzuki PE175 Full Floater - restomod projects
'77 Suzuki GS750-844cc, '77 GS400/489cc & '77 GS550/740cc projects
'62 GMC 1000 Panel Truck
'88 Suzuki Samurai TDI/Toyota swaps
'88 Toyota 4x4 pickup
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