Slick_Nick wrote: ↑10:08 am Nov 02 2022
Yep that thing works a treat! You can also use it with a bearing separator to pull those crank bearings back off the crank for re installation.
Tried following the method in that youtube video....unfortunately no success. If I do it that way, no gap up front but have a gap in the back towards engine.
Only way clutch pack is seating all the way down is without the inner washer pictured below. Not sure why. Got me stumped.
If I put the washer in there, it fills up most of that round area for the bottom of inner hub to drop in but I believe without that washer I'd just be bolting the two clutch hubs together....
SS109 wrote: ↑05:16 am Nov 08 2022
Do you have the washer that goes behind the basket installed?
This. Also, I can already see that the bottom plate isn’t lined up with the fingers of the rest of the metal plates. They all need to slot into the inner hub.
DonnyV wrote: ↑04:25 pm Nov 08 2022
I'm with SlickNick, that last one isn't in line with the rest. A little off topic but what kind of basket and hub is that? Mine has only 4 springs
Any other options besides FRP for the porting?
Not opposed to them, just curious!
Millennium does porting as well. If you're really going to do all that, it's a really good time to make sure the head squish is done as well.
So for taking care of the head squish...just also send the dome to Millenium?.....along with the cylinder, new piston, new rings, and I'm going to have them do porting & install my new steel power valves from the guy in England (already got those and they look really nice....bike had the usual LH valve sheared). Just saw on Millenium's website they can take care of that as well.
Gonna be expensive Good thing I got the bike for basically nothin' as a work trade & just wanted to learn about dirt bikes, especially 2 strokes. Glad I at least got something "good" to eventually fix up & keep
This website is great & I appreciate everyone's help very much!!
Last edited by KC93 on 02:45 am Nov 10 2022, edited 1 time in total.