HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
- KDXGarage
- KDXRider.net
- Posts: 14119
- Joined: 06:45 am Nov 01 2004
- Country: United States of America
- Location: AL, USA
- Contact:
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
I don't think it requires alignment. It just finds the hole through pressure, I suppose.
I am going to be bold and state that I do not think you will be riding this wonderful KDX175 through a lot of mudholes, so it would not require constant regreasing. :-)
I am going to be bold and state that I do not think you will be riding this wonderful KDX175 through a lot of mudholes, so it would not require constant regreasing. :-)
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net.
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 80
- Joined: 11:50 pm Jan 26 2021
- Country: US
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
Well, that hollow bolt idea for greasing the swingarm sure seems good. I stared at the parts on the bench for a good long while but could not see how to make it work with the KDX175 bearings - so I cleaned, lubed and put everything back together.
If a cheap swing comes up, I may get it and use it to try ideas on - for now, I will be re-greasing manually after any mud-hole incidents or other submersion - hopefully rare in the desert :-)
- KDXGarage
- KDXRider.net
- Posts: 14119
- Joined: 06:45 am Nov 01 2004
- Country: United States of America
- Location: AL, USA
- Contact:
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
The desert?! HA! Yeah, I think you will be just fine without the grease fittings. I have full confidence that you will regrease on a schedule, not let it go for too long.
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net.
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 80
- Joined: 11:50 pm Jan 26 2021
- Country: US
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
The engine is now pulled apart for crank seal attempt #2. The first attempt failed the leakdown test and air bubbles appeared around the outer edges of both seals.
Engine back apart
_click image to zoom_
With the crank out, it seemed to be a good time to think about bearings. Although bouth had a good feel, one came with the bike and one was a replacement - both from about 30 years ago. Replacing with Timkens (6305) is easy at this point. Step one - remove the old bearings with a bearing splitter and press.
Old bearings coming off
The new bearings matched up so the crank was taken to the freezer.
New bearings - 6305
Here is an inside view of the errant holes a previous owner drilled through the crankcase (possible for bearing removal). They look nicely sealed
Plugged holes behind bearing
Now is a good to clean off the red Loctite sealant while the crank is freezing. I like Locktite products but am doing some research about sealants - I may end up switching.
- KDXGarage
- KDXRider.net
- Posts: 14119
- Joined: 06:45 am Nov 01 2004
- Country: United States of America
- Location: AL, USA
- Contact:
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
any thoughts to take the case half to have it TIG welded and sanded down?
Molly's 70 on here is a welding guy. See what he thinks.
Molly's 70 on here is a welding guy. See what he thinks.
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net.
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
- Molly's 70
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 569
- Joined: 04:29 pm Jun 18 2017
- Country: USA
- Location: Wichita, Kansas USA
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
That might be a tough one to get the tig torch positioned right & still be able to see what your doing. I need more pictures of both sides.
If you lend someone $20, and never see that person again, it was probably worth it.
- KDXGarage
- KDXRider.net
- Posts: 14119
- Joined: 06:45 am Nov 01 2004
- Country: United States of America
- Location: AL, USA
- Contact:
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net.
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
- Molly's 70
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 569
- Joined: 04:29 pm Jun 18 2017
- Country: USA
- Location: Wichita, Kansas USA
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
OK, I went back to refresh my memory. I think I could get to it from the outsides of the cases. It would be nice to have closer-up pictures.
However, If those holes were plugged with JB Weld,(I think I read that) its pretty much a "no-go" unless every bit is removed. In fact, JB weld might be a good solution in this case.
However, If those holes were plugged with JB Weld,(I think I read that) its pretty much a "no-go" unless every bit is removed. In fact, JB weld might be a good solution in this case.
If you lend someone $20, and never see that person again, it was probably worth it.
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 80
- Joined: 11:50 pm Jan 26 2021
- Country: US
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
any thoughts to take the case half to have it TIG welded and sanded down?
Thanks for the suggestion, this is a good idea. Here is a closeup before JB Weld.
1 of 3 holes
_click image to zoom_
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 80
- Joined: 11:50 pm Jan 26 2021
- Country: US
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
Welding the little crankcase holes
The first step was prep, grinding out all of the JB Weld that I initially used to plug the holes. At the time, the engine was mostly assembled so JB Weld was the easy choice. Now, that the engine is back apart (to try for a better crank seal install) the suggestion to weld those holes was apropos. Drilling out the holes one size larger got all of the JB Weld out.
Weld prep
_click image to zoom_
I looked up an old buddy and he came to the rescue (thanks Kimo!). He plugged two holes from the outside.
Plugged holes
The third hole was buried in that narrow space so it was tackled from the inside.
Third hole - plugged
The inside weld needed to be smoothed down as the crank bearing mounts here. Fortunately, a bit of variation in this area should not be too critical - only a small part of the machined surface is effected and its purpose is to locate the bearing axially on the crank. A little drill press rigging was fine.
Cleaning up the inside weld
It came out great so I went ahead and pressed in the seals - making sure to use a sealer this time!
Cleaned up and new seals installed
- KDXGarage
- KDXRider.net
- Posts: 14119
- Joined: 06:45 am Nov 01 2004
- Country: United States of America
- Location: AL, USA
- Contact:
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
Nice! Thanks for the follow up!
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net.
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 80
- Joined: 11:50 pm Jan 26 2021
- Country: US
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
Well, now one more problem - while getting everything cleaned up assembly, i noticed that the gear on the clutch basket has some slop. Not a lot but definitely more than zero as the gear can be rotated a degree or two while the basket is stationary.
Clutch gear rotated right
_click image to zoom_
Clutch gear rotated left
Looks to be under half a millimeter or, maybe, 0.030" at the outer circumference. I think I am correct in assuming that any discernible movement is too much?
Keeping alignment while putting in new rivets seems like it would be hard (even if my press would do it), I may have to look around for a replacement clutch basket.
Well, better now than later I guess
- Molly's 70
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 569
- Joined: 04:29 pm Jun 18 2017
- Country: USA
- Location: Wichita, Kansas USA
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
Good job on welding the holes in the case. Also, Good job on reworking welded area. It doesn't get any better!
If you lend someone $20, and never see that person again, it was probably worth it.
- Slick_Nick
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 1684
- Joined: 10:06 pm Oct 22 2009
- Country: Canada
- Location: Calgary, Alberta
- Contact:
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
You will need new clutch basket bumpers to fix that slop. You can drill and tap the rivet holes for some flat head hex machine screws once you remove the stock rivets. I've done this on a few vintage Suzuki baskets with success. Use loctite and peen the screws once installed.
'00 KDX 220R
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 80
- Joined: 11:50 pm Jan 26 2021
- Country: US
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
Thanks Molly's 70 - all the welding credit goes to my buddy Kimo - he knows his stuff!
Slick_Nick, thanks for the suggestion, I already started removing the clutch basket rivets. My initial thought was to stop by the local rivet place and see how close of a match they had.
I like the idea of drilling and tapping though - mainly because I would be able to more closely match the tension of each fastener to some nominal value (compared to flattening the rivets, one at a time, by hand).
Pilot drilling a rivet with 1/16" bit
_click image to zoom_
Moved up to an 1/8
Chiseling off the rivet head
The rivets are about 0.160" diameter and somewhat over 0.422" in length. Hansen Rivets lists slightly under and slightly over. I imagine best to go slightly over and will talk to them. Then, I will check out screws.
Clutch basket rivet
- KDXGarage
- KDXRider.net
- Posts: 14119
- Joined: 06:45 am Nov 01 2004
- Country: United States of America
- Location: AL, USA
- Contact:
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
"My initial thought was to stop by the local rivet place". I don't think I have ever heard that one. :-)
Keep up the good work!
Keep up the good work!
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net.
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
- Slick_Nick
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 1684
- Joined: 10:06 pm Oct 22 2009
- Country: Canada
- Location: Calgary, Alberta
- Contact:
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
I went down to my local rivet place when I did my flywheel rivets. They had hundreds of sizes in stock, likely ones that work for the clutch basket but I still elected to use screws for the last one I did, my old RM125. There's nothing wrong with screws if they're peened and loctite is used, will make replacing the bumpers in the future easier.
'00 KDX 220R
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 80
- Joined: 11:50 pm Jan 26 2021
- Country: US
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
I got the rivets out and looked inside of the clutch basket:
Original Clutch Basket Rubber Cushion Bumper Dampers
_click image to zoom_
Now I see how this works. This is the first time I have had one apart and I have somehow never looked at pictures - I assumed it was solid.
And, I can see how the rivets just hold things together without transmitting any torque
The hard part looks to be sourcing the rubber dampers as I see about a half dozen Kawasaki versions exist. If anyone knows the right version, please let me know! I will do some calling around and see if someone can take some measurements too.
- Slick_Nick
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 1684
- Joined: 10:06 pm Oct 22 2009
- Country: Canada
- Location: Calgary, Alberta
- Contact:
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
You might have to do some measuring and poking around some various manufacturer catalogs since there likely isn't a listing for a bike as old as yours.
'00 KDX 220R
-
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 80
- Joined: 11:50 pm Jan 26 2021
- Country: US
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Re: HopFrog's 1980 KDX175 Build Log
Here is what I have found on the the rubber clutch dampers (cushions) for the KDX175:
KDX175 clutch damper (cushion)
_click image to zoom_
With help from HinsonRacing (thanks Robert!) it was determined that an exact match might no longer be available. The KX80/85 is pretty close but measures slightly larger. In particular, the inner "D" shaped hole might be too loose. Once I get the KX80 version in my hands, I will know for sure and, at that point, maybe I can shim somehow if it is too loose.
A better idea (or a closer replacement) would be welcome! Perhaps, given the correct rubber material, I could cut some on a laser cutter.