I decided last year I wanted to get into dirt riding and this year picked up a 2001 KDX200. I'm going to be taking my first woods ride this weekend out at the Red Top Trail in McGrath, Minnesota with a friend of mine who picked up a 2000 YZ125.
The KDX is equipped with an FMF Gnarly pipe, but I'm not sure if it's the right one as the lower muffler damper/hanger doesnt' fit without modification, and the kickstart lever rests gently against the pipe when stowed.
(Both pictures are before I cleaned it up a bit.)
The first ride out at the Red Top Trail was successful and aside from one of the rear brake pads falling out the bike did great. I did take a look at the header pipe, and it looks like the upper hanger tab might be bent. I think if I straighten it out, it will help the other tab line up. The pick pedal mechanism doesn't seem to have any play in it, maybe the lever self is a little bent.
Good to hear your first ride went well. If you remove the nut, pull the Kickstarter and rotate it one spline counter clockwise that should get it sitting right. Use blue loctite on the nut when you put it back on.
John_S wrote: 10:36 am Jun 02 2019
Good to hear your first ride went well. If you remove the nut, pull the Kickstarter and rotate it one spline counter clockwise that should get it sitting right. Use blue loctite on the nut when you put it back on.
Yeah, just looked at mine. The kickstarter is definitely rotated clockwise a spline or two (or more???).
2003 KDX200: Bone stock
2003 KDX 220:
Boyesen reeds
Gnarly Gold Series pipe
Turbine Core 2 silencer
Fat Bars
Super Sport IMS pegs
Cycra Probend hand guards
Tusk dualsport light kit
LED headlamp
Boyesen Factory Racing mag cover
Airbox snorkel removed
Wiesco piston and rings
One thing I forgot to mention, the front brake line holder tab on the left fork is broken off, it's currently held on by a single zip tie. Is there any good way to fix the tab? Or should I just apply more zip ties?
this is somehow the best picture I have of that side of the bike right now.
KDXGarage wrote: 10:39 pm Jun 06 2019
TIG weld it up
grind it down
sand it, drill it, deburr, etc.
Can you post a better pic?
I swear that first picture looked clearer when I took it, but you get the idea. I think there is plenty of the bracket left on the fork leg to have no problem TIG-ing it back on. I also just noticed that the clamp for the fork boot is crocked, probably jostled by the bracket going by.
There's a technical school not too far away that I'm thinking of dropping a line to, maybe weasel my way into a free weld. There is also a custom welding shop nearby I might try out.
Try liquid metal or some apoxy, clean the areas up with brake cleaner first then apply & let it set over night ....if it doesn't work & you have to weld it then be careful that the heat from the torch doesn't damage your fork seal !
