Here's another view of both the cylinders. The 220 is on the right. Notice the difference in shape of the two intake ports.
Here's a tool that I bought on Amazon that I'm using a lot. I've chased every threaded hole and fastener that I touch. It clears out galvanic corrosion or loctite in the threads and allows for more accurate torquing when the threads aren't binding. The flat bar on the bottom allows you to straighten various thread pitches on larger items. I used it on the shock bodies where damaged threads prevented me from removing the adjusting rings. Very useful.
Speaking of shocks, here's the valve stack. It's different from the H series stack mentioned on another thread. They were identical on both bikes, so I assume that they are the original valving from 2002. The compression stack starts with 8, 38x0.20 shims. I wanted a little softer high-speed compression, so I added one 16x0.30 pivot shim to the bottom of the stack. I left everything else alone as a 2 stage stack. You can see shims 9 and 10 are the crossovers. We'll see how it works. The wet-dry paper on the plate glass was used to surface the base washers and piston faces.
And, here's the completed shocks awaiting a nitrogen charge, hopefully this next week when I pick up the forks. Springs are new Race Tech's, 4.8 on the 200 and 5.2 fat boys on the 220. I replaced the seal heads and filled with 5wt Bel Ray shock oil. The Race Tech videos provide better instruction than the shop manual - pushing the seal head in while relieving pressure on the bladder valve stem completely eliminates any air bubbles. I still inverted and checked the bleeder screw - not one air bubble. I soaked the old, dry bump stops in 303 Aerospace protectant in a plastic bag for a couple days. They're pliable and like new again. After parts washing everything, I etched the shock bodies with the Eagle Mag wheel cleaner and red Scotch Brite pads. I then used something new to me - Protectaclear on the shock bodies. I also used it on the cylinders and heads and will use it on all the raw aluminum. Engine cases, swingarms, triple clamps, etc. I like the stuff - 2 or 3 wipe on coats and you're done. It's supposed to be durable and heat resistant to 600 degrees.
I finished the wheel assemblies. Tusk rims, Buchannan spokes, Tubliss, 50 tooth sprockets, and Shinko tires. The spokes fit without having to ream any holes. The spokes and nipples are heavier than stock. 6.9mm vs 6.0mm stock nipples. Here's the Shinko 525 Cheater Hybrid on the rear...
And here's the Shinko 216MX 90/100 fatty on the front KX250 wheel. It's identical to the Goldentire GT216 fatty for a lot less $. The overall diameter of this tire is 0.80" taller than a normal 80/100. I'll have to slip the forks up 0.40" to compensate.
That's it for now. I should be getting my final parts from Partzilla next week and my forks. We're getting excited to get this project completed!