A few questions about my 94 kdx200

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 09:39 pm Aug 23 2016

Another teaser shot

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 09:55 pm Aug 23 2016

I've got an e series that's all torn apart that I'll be sending the crank and maybe head to Ron to work his magic on. The carb is stock, and was working fine for me when the bike was running. I was planning on getting a quad air Stryker down the road when the bike is back together. Maybe we can work something out?

On the other hand, are you certain that the carb is the issue on your bike? Could be a jetting issue it's true, but my 93 DX200 was kind of similar. It would idle pretty good, but ride awful with much throttle. I put on a known good carb and jets (handy having two bikes) and it didn't fix it. Turned out to be a partially faulty stator. As soon as I replaced the stator it ran like a champ and my parts bike became the one that actually works!

"Good job, guys. "

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 10:05 pm Aug 23 2016

Yeah if you send out your carb and have ron do his thing and get the thumb and finger adjustment screw and the allen float bowl bolts we can work something out.
My original carb had a bad float bowl gasket a bad float hinge tower and a broken main jet. And aparently some other issues that ron said "wasnt worth the money to fix".

The main problem with my bike was the top end. Im surprised it ran at all. Nevermind kept up with my buddys 220. After this is all done he should be eating my roost.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 11:59 pm Aug 23 2016

I meant if you want a carb that is working now to get you rolling while you wait. I don't want to get all that work done on an old carb.

Just an idea, in case it's more helpful to you than sitting on my bench.

"Good job, guys. "

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 11:17 am Aug 24 2016

Yeah maybe ill do that. The only thing that i dont like about it is having a full exhaust, port and polish on both intake and exhaust sides, a modified head, and delta force 3s, all breathing thru a stock carb. Sounds like a high performance vaccum cleaner forced to breathe thru a small opening. It kinda negates all the other performance stuff ive done. Plus with all the performance stuff im having done am i gonna have to worry about rejetting the stock carb and tuning it and dialing it in? Where as with the RB air striker it comes jetted really close to the mods i have with only minor adjustments needed to dial it in. I gotta think about it. How much would you like to get for the carb?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 03:51 pm Aug 26 2016

So i pulled the trigger and the air striker carb and top of the cylinder hopefully should be here next week.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 04:27 pm Aug 26 2016

got my old wheel bearings out. They were pretty bad. Inside was lubed with a bad smelling pink lube. With rusty water and crud in it. Looks like the seals werent doing their job.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 04:54 pm Aug 26 2016

noticing this groove in the rear wheel spacer. Is it supposed to be there? Does it need to be replaced?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 07:36 pm Aug 26 2016

So i purchased a manual off cyclepedia and for some reason every link works but the bottom end disassembly link.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 08:59 pm Aug 26 2016

So guys just wanted to keep you updated with how the build is going.

I got the motor out of the frame.

Got the fly wheel off. Lighting coil unwound.

Im seeing oil in that compartment so that seal deffinatly needs to be replaced.

Getting the out put shaft seal out was a pain but i came up with a good solution if you dont have the tool. I used a sheetmetal screw vise grips and a big screwdriver as a lever.

Clutch basket is out. Clutch friction plates are at .117. minimum thickness is .106 so i should be good for a while. Ill finish up the rest of my disassembly tomorrow.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Post by **KDXGarage** » 08:53 am Aug 27 2016

OK. A couple of things...

Take the collar off the output shaft and you could have just used a seal puller or exhaust spring puller to more easily get the seal out.

The oil you see in the bottom of the stator / flywheel area is from the three digits probably. Search for info on super cleaning the three little digits, roughening the area, then filing with JB Weld or similar

Post by **KDXGarage** » 08:53 am Aug 27 2016

Divots, POS phone

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 05:56 am Aug 28 2016

I dont have a seal puller but my method worked good considering. Didnt cause any dammage to the surfaces.

Ill have to look for those divots.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Post by **KDXGarage** » 10:44 am Aug 28 2016

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source= ... oq1xde4JWA

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 05:26 pm Aug 28 2016

The gears that are part of the kick starter are those supposed to have a little play in them?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 06:12 pm Aug 30 2016

Is the shifter shifter shaft supposed to be bent?

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 06:46 pm Aug 30 2016

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post by **KDXGarage** » 09:15 pm Aug 30 2016

Daaaaaaaamn.

Just in case you were not kidding, it is supposed to be straight.

ubareddition · Post by **ubareddition** » 07:34 am Aug 31 2016

So I'm just gonna re assemble that shaft as it was. I can't imagine that part is cheap or will come in in a reasonable amount of time. It shifted fine before and didn't really leak oil. Seems like someone bent it in a crash. It made it a little difficult to split the cases but what am I gonna do? I was thinking of clamping it in my vise and putting a pipe over the end and trying to straiten it. I'm just worried I'll make it worse or it will snap. I can't take it out of the case because of how its bent. I was thinking I could also heat it up with my oxy acetylene torch and put it on my anvil and try to tap it strait. I don't know what do you guys think?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

pumpguy · Post by **pumpguy** » 10:41 am Aug 31 2016

Looking back at the picture showing a puddle of oil at the bottom of the stator housing, I don't see a tell tale drip line from oil leaking from the seal.

There have been problems with casting porosity causing a similar problem. Typically these are addressed with a covering of J B Weld or similar over the porous area. Are you sure you don't have a porosity problem?

Another cause of oil accumulation in the stator housing is fuel leaking past the wire grommet. If this happens, the gasoline evaporates and leaves the oil behind.

KDXRIDER.NET

KDXRIDER.NET