KDX stalls in first

Oscar N · Post by **Oscar N** » 11:52 pm Apr 14 2016

Hi guys, my kdx idles fine in neutral but when i put it into first with the clutch in it dies unless I keep the revs up with the throttle. I've had a look around and as far as i can tell I might have to replace the clutch basket but I'm not sure. Also I'm not sure if this is normal or if it matters but I've noticed that when I'm in neutral and the clutch lever is out it makes a weird knocking noise, when I pull the clutch lever in the noise goes away. Any ideas on what it could be? Thanks

diymirage · Post by **diymirage** » 10:34 am Apr 15 2016

the noise your describing sounds like the KIPS rattle
perfectly normal

how high do you need to keep the idle to keep it from stalling ?
the way these wet multiple plate clutches are designed allows for oil to remain in between the plates at low RPM with the clutch disengaged

the oil then acts as a seal, not allowing the engine and transmission to be fully disengaged, and it drags down the engine until it dies

(this is also the reason why it is so much harder to push a bike in gear, but with the clutch lever pulled)

it could be the clutch needs adjustment/maintenance, but if were talking a very low idle, and a very low rev over idle to keep it running, it sound pretty normal

shoe757 · Post by **shoe757** » 10:45 am Apr 15 2016

Try and adjust it first to see if it gets better. How's the oil level? Last time you changed it? What oil do you run? If you run ATF or a lighter weight oil (10w40) its pretty normal to have some drag. Or if you run heavy weight (gear saver) and haven't changed it in a while. Is the bike lurching forward when you drop it in gear?

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 12:20 pm Apr 15 2016

Both of mine do this (when they're running). Clutch drag, turn up your idle or check out the oil considerations above. FYI I'm running ATF also.

Fun Wheel Drive

Oscar N · Post by **Oscar N** » 04:08 pm Apr 15 2016

The oil level is good I changed it a couple weeks ago with 4 stroke 10w40. Last time I went riding I tried setting the idle higher and even then it died after going into gear. How do I adjust the clutch?

ohgood · Post by **ohgood** » 04:37 pm Apr 15 2016

Oscar N wrote:Hi guys, my kdx idles fine in neutral but when i put it into first with the clutch in it dies unless I keep the revs up with the throttle. I've had a look around and as far as i can tell I might have to replace the clutch basket but I'm not sure. Also I'm not sure if this is normal or if it matters but I've noticed that when I'm in neutral and the clutch lever is out it makes a weird knocking noise, when I pull the clutch lever in the noise goes away. Any ideas on what it could be? Thanks

wet clutches always slow the engine while in gear. it's the surface tension of the fluid between the clutch plates. if yours will not drop into first gear (or any gear) without stalling either your clutch free play needs adjustment, or your clutch basket is notched. either of those can be fixed with adjustment or filing the basket.

shoe757 · Post by **shoe757** » 10:40 pm Apr 15 2016

Oscar N wrote:The oil level is good I changed it a couple weeks ago with 4 stroke 10w40. Last time I went riding I tried setting the idle higher and even then it died after going into gear. How do I adjust the clutch?

I believe there are two spots on the kdx. The easiest is where the clutch cable goes into the clutch lever. The piece that the cable goes into is threaded, there is also a "jam nut" I the threaded piece. Loosen the big round "jam nut", then turn the piece the cable goes into counter clockwise. Go until your lever only moves a little before it gets tight. So when you pull it in there should be a little free play before it gets stiff. If you can't get enough adjustment just reply and I'll try to explain how to adjust the other one.

Jaguar · Post by **Jaguar** » 01:04 am Apr 16 2016

I doubt his "knocking noise" is the KIPS rattle.
I'd pull the cover off to inspect everything. You have to do that anyway to file or dremel away the clutch basket notches that screw up normal clutch function. Grab the clutch basket and see if you can move it up and down. If so then the bearing at the far side of the clutch shaft needs to be replaced. It easily goes bad when owners let the oil level go below the recommended level. Actually it's advised that the level be slightly more than what is recommended to keep that bearing happy.

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 01:54 am Apr 16 2016

My buddy helped with my oil change last time, and ended up over filling it a little. Then every time I'd run it, it would drip oil out of the crank vent hose. Continued doing that until I finally removed the bolt and drained some myself until I could barely see the level on the sight glass. Brand new motor rebuild.
So how much is "slightly more"?

Fun Wheel Drive

Sullyfam · Post by **Sullyfam** » 05:21 am Apr 16 2016

I have always put 100ml more than the OEM recommended level in all my bikes.

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Oscar N · Post by **Oscar N** » 05:27 am Apr 16 2016

I took the cover off today and had a look at it. The basket wasn't moving up and down or anything but there were notches in it so I'll file them away sometime. And yeah when I did my oil change I put a little bit more in than I meant to but just ended up leaving it

Tedh98 · Post by **Tedh98** » 06:19 am Apr 16 2016

Friedom wrote:My buddy helped with my oil change last time, and ended up over filling it a little. Then every time I'd run it, it would drip oil out of the crank vent hose. Continued doing that until I finally removed the bolt and drained some myself until I could barely see the level on the sight glass. Brand new motor rebuild.
So how much is "slightly more"?

Is your vent hose routed up to the airbox or does it hang down under the bike like the carb hoses?

I always just use a full quart in the KDX's.

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 02:49 pm Apr 16 2016

It's paired with the vent hoses on the swingarm/rear of engine.

Fun Wheel Drive

ohgood · Post by **ohgood** » 06:09 pm Apr 16 2016

Friedom wrote:My buddy helped with my oil change last time, and ended up over filling it a little. Then every time I'd run it, it would drip oil out of the crank vent hose. Continued doing that until I finally removed the bolt and drained some myself until I could barely see the level on the sight glass. Brand new motor rebuild.
So how much is "slightly more"?

Fun Wheel Drive

i would imagine completely filling the transmission with oil would mean it would push out the vent line until ... it didn't anymore. maybe it would drag on the clutch some, but i have no idea. since the transmission is not recirculating oil with the crank case, there isn't much worry with it. the notches on the basket will effect clutch operation. best is a new basket, and better baskets have steel inserts to prevent waering on the basket.

i've filed mine twice since i bought it (very very used) used and had good results. right now clutch operation is smooth and predictable, hot/cold or screaming in third trying to make it up whatever hill, while slipping the clutch to prevent wheelspin.

Friedom · Post by **Friedom** » 12:29 am Apr 17 2016

Thanks. Back to the OP, make sure you have a good clean plug in there. My bike was running ok today on a ride. Would stall out if I left the engine slow down much. After a mishap with the kickstand sinking into sand and the bike laying there dumping fuel into the cylinder for awhile, I had to change the spark plug. Man oh man it woke the bike up! Now it's running clean and making enough power at idle that it's less prone to stall out.
Just a thought.

Fun Wheel Drive

Oscar N · Post by **Oscar N** » 12:32 am Apr 17 2016

Does anyone know where I can get a new clutch basket? Bearing in mind I'm in New Zealand and don't want to pay heaps for shipping. I can't seem to find them anywhere for a kdx. Thanks for that friedom I'll have a look at the plug

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