Clutch won't disengage even after basket filed

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 08:47 pm Jul 29 2014

I have a sticking clutch. I took the clutch apart and filed the basket.... Not 100% smooth but close.
When I was inspecting the clutch plates they where stuck together... I pulled them apart, they sort of suctioned themselves together from the oil. Is this normal?
I don't know what oil was in it prior to me putting in motorcycle tranny oil in. I didn't think at the time but I guess I should have cleaned the plates and re oiled.
I was convinced once a filed the basket the clutch would be sweet...
There was also some wear on the actuator pin but it didn't look significant.
I'll pull it apart again and get some photos.

Besides the oil and clutch basket us there anything else in particular that can cause a sticking clutch that I can look out for?
I imagine if the actuator pin is worn the clutch would move freely as it wouldn't compress the springs.

Post by **bufftester** » 09:19 pm Jul 29 2014

make sure it's properly assembled, and that the cable is properly adjusted. The torque value on the clutch spring bolts is VERY low.

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 09:35 pm Jul 29 2014

Oh, thanks heaps for that. I did the spring bolts up by hand. If it is low torque I have no doubt I did them up to tight. I should have looked at the torque in the workshop manual

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 10:08 pm Jul 29 2014

For anyone who comes across this post in the future the spring bolts torque is 9.2 NM or .95 KG M

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 05:29 am Jul 30 2014

So I pulled the clutch apart... Again.
I just measured the springs. Manual says they should be 37mm minimum upto 39mm. Mine measure 35mm..... Difference is huge! I'm not sure if it's a aftermarket clutch (if that's even possible), the springs are worn heaps or the wrong springs have been put in at some point. Btw, the springs have blue paint on them.... Whatever that means. 2mm difference in spring length seem excessively worn, I'm not even sure they can wear that much?
The clutch plates measure up fine but have slight notches on the 'wing' bits. Not sure if that is normal or not.
Tomorrow (it's 8:30pm here now) I'm going to clean all plates, re oil and reinstall the lot and see what happens.
I suspect the springs need replacing but I will try without replacing them. All I will waste is time some tranny oil and gasket blue. No big deal.

Post by **bufftester** » 12:21 pm Jul 30 2014

At 35mm your clutch springs are not long enough to do their job, order a new set (yes they do wear)

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 05:22 pm Jul 30 2014

Ok mate, thanks. I'm looking at the schematic diagram and it shows two washers 92022B. I'll have a look soon but I don't remember seeing them. One goes in between the basket and clutch wheel and the other goes behind the bushing, hmmmmmmmmm

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 07:17 pm Jul 30 2014

Washer B is what is missing...... bugger....... would this cause the sticking clutch?
Im about to head into the local kawasaki dealer and order the parts. I can get the springs off ebay for about $30 from the USA or local for $8 each. The two Washers are $4. Ill buy them local and then when it comes to replace the clutch next time ill order the whole kit off eBay... assuming I can fix the damn clutch and then wear it out haha

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 11:22 pm Jul 30 2014

Update: not that it seems anyone cares hahaha
The springs are discontinued so I ordered a clutch kit off eBay
The shop had one washer and ordered me another one (the last one in Australia)! Only 2 left here apparently so got lucky. Only cost me $8 for both.
Now I need to wait, doh! If this doesn't fix the clutch I'm throwing the bike off a cliff

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 11:34 pm Aug 06 2014

I need help!

I put in my new clutch kit, with all the washers and stuff EXACTLY according to the manual. But now the clutch cover wont fit on!
Im guessing the previous owner had the same problem so he removed the two washers to push the clutch assembly into the bike which then allows the clutch cover to fit.... but then the clutch never disengages. Its doing my head in!
Im about to send it to the mechanic but I figure I will try one last time in here. if ANYONE has ANYTHING to add im happy to hear it!

6 Riders · Post by **6 Riders** » 11:38 pm Aug 06 2014

The activation rod needs to rotate freely to get the cover on. Unhook the cable and turn that rod until the cover pops on.

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 11:39 pm Aug 06 2014

If I pull the actuator arm out from the cover the cover fits on fine. So the plate pusher sticks out to far. Perhaps it is the wrong one? I could grind it shorter but yeah prob not a good idea!

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 11:40 pm Aug 06 2014

ok, will try right now!

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 12:16 am Aug 07 2014

Nope, didnt work

. The cover goes on much better but it is still not flush. It feels as if the outer of the clutch basket is hitting the actuator arm. I put the cover on and did the bolts up but it is impossible to put the cable on.
The only thing I can see that is making the clutch stick out further is the bearing from the gearbox shaft. Behind the washer B. Perhaps it is not in far enough. It is def not flush with the housing.

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 01:45 am Aug 07 2014

I pulled the clutch pusher out completely and there is some part of the clutch hitting the actuator arm. I can feel it when I push the kick starter down and it spins the clutch. It must be that bearing. I can't see anywhere what is causing the clutch to stick out to far...... Ffs this bike is shitting me

Dekon · Post by **Dekon** » 11:11 am Aug 07 2014

You might be able to remove the washers under the pusher(if they are there). I asked this question before because my 89 was missing them but they are on the parts fieche. I was told Kawasaki used them to shim the pusher, some bikes had none, some one, and some two. Maybe check that.

Post by **scheckaet** » 11:24 am Aug 07 2014

DO NOT GRIND ANYTHING.
the clutch cover can be a bitch to put back on but it will go in with patience.
remove the cable from the clutch. be sure you don't turn the perch the wrong way or re assembly, that's probably why the clutch won't disengage.

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 05:11 pm Aug 07 2014

cheers guys. Ill have another crack at it tomorrow. I removed the shim on the pusher but it doesn't help as the actuator arm is hitting the outer clutch friction plate, only by a bees ****. Ill add a extra thick gasket haha
I have scuff marks on the inside of the clutch cover, it looks as if the previous owner has installed the clutch, it has rubbed on the cover so he took it apart, removed those two washers to make it fit and re assembled and just rode it with no clutch. The friction plates where pretty good so I dont think it has had a working clutch since it was rebuilt last. It also has some surface rust on the back of the gear on the clutch basket. Perhaps it busted a water seal which is why it was stripped down or perhaps it was apart with the clutch sitting some place for a while. Mystery bike!
Ill just become a gun rider and learn never to stop so I dont stall it, Jarvis LOOKOUT im coming for you!

Post by **scheckaet** » 05:34 pm Aug 07 2014

pics?

Worm · Post by **Worm** » 01:02 am Aug 08 2014

That is the surface rust.

Well I made a small step forward. I managed to put it together. It just takes some dicking about as mentioned above.... BUT..... the clutch lever is almost impossible to pull in. I measured the new clutch springs and they are the exact same length that the old ones where, 35mm... the service manual says 39mm and replace at 37mm........ AND the clutch kit also came with a extra spring..... soooooooooo does the kit have the wrong size springs, did I get sent the wrong clutch kit (friction and steal plates fit perfect by the looks of it) or is the service manual out of date and 35mm springs are fine....... im hoping its wrong springs!

Does anyone know what length springs they are running?

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