Hi, I am fitting some MX tyres to my KDX for off roading but I want a spare set of
wheels and tyres for the road. Can anyone recommend a set of wheels that fit?
I'm looking for spare KDX wheels but will any others fit?
Does the later 1989 on KDX front wheel fit straight in?
How easy is a rear disc/19" rear wheel conversion?
Thanks Mike.
Spare wheels for a 1988 C3 KDX200?
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Re: Spare wheels for a 1988 C3 KDX200?
re: your question on how easy is a rear disc/19" wheel conversion..
From my post in this forum:
"... Check out how the stay for the C model rear hub is welded...it is a separate sheet welded at the edges near the top and bottom of the swingarm. Those welds are easily removed with a grinder, if you're careful you won't even touch the swingarm itself - grind away enough to lift one end and it can then be bent over and broken off. Clean up what's left with a grinder or file. Then, find some weldable grade aluminum to act as the stay for the E or H carrier. It will end up being wider than the E or H model stays (meaning further out toward the wheel), as the C swingarm is wider with the new wheel still located left with the original C axle spacer (the 125 wheel with the original C wheel spacer placed the rear sprocket exactly the same position as the C wheel - lucked out!).
I found a chunk of wide aluminum angle that would work as the stay and had it welded on for $25, a price which included welding the chain guide tabs. So that part insn't a deal breaker. The fit of the stay to the carrier isn't that critical, IMO, as long as the up-down play isn't too excessive. If you notice, the E and H carriers are tapered for easy ass'y so you have more slop when the wheel is further back anyway - and the widened "T" edges are for alignment too, I think. So just using a simple rectangular-shaped stay works fine, the penalty is a little more hassle during wheel mounting.
BTW, I used a H model carrier, but I think the E model is likely the same. I bought a junk E model swingarm just for info purposes, so I had access to all three models of swingarms for comparision."
From my post in this forum:
"... Check out how the stay for the C model rear hub is welded...it is a separate sheet welded at the edges near the top and bottom of the swingarm. Those welds are easily removed with a grinder, if you're careful you won't even touch the swingarm itself - grind away enough to lift one end and it can then be bent over and broken off. Clean up what's left with a grinder or file. Then, find some weldable grade aluminum to act as the stay for the E or H carrier. It will end up being wider than the E or H model stays (meaning further out toward the wheel), as the C swingarm is wider with the new wheel still located left with the original C axle spacer (the 125 wheel with the original C wheel spacer placed the rear sprocket exactly the same position as the C wheel - lucked out!).
I found a chunk of wide aluminum angle that would work as the stay and had it welded on for $25, a price which included welding the chain guide tabs. So that part insn't a deal breaker. The fit of the stay to the carrier isn't that critical, IMO, as long as the up-down play isn't too excessive. If you notice, the E and H carriers are tapered for easy ass'y so you have more slop when the wheel is further back anyway - and the widened "T" edges are for alignment too, I think. So just using a simple rectangular-shaped stay works fine, the penalty is a little more hassle during wheel mounting.
BTW, I used a H model carrier, but I think the E model is likely the same. I bought a junk E model swingarm just for info purposes, so I had access to all three models of swingarms for comparision."
1994 KDX200, Beta 200rr, yz125, yz250, kx100 modded for adult, gasgas contact 250.