My 94 KDX

[6 Riders]

So, I started my rebuild today...........
well, I started by tearing her down...( I can not believe the dirt hiding in this bike).
I'm not sure where I'm going with the bike, but I sure do love her, and I don't want to "fail".
I took the bike down to the frame, motor out, rear suspension off..etc.
Is it worth the $ to powder coat? paint...or leave it the way it was.....
It is an "old bike" but I'm thinking RB mods (carb and head) to make her sing, but really, is it worth it in the long run?
My original goal was..top end, piston (if needed), bearings and reassemble and ride!

[Goofaroo]

I just started on a 92 model I picked up for my son-in-law. I bought this particular bike because the motor had recently been gone through by a local shop that does good work. The cylinder was replated, new piston kit installed, and the bottom end freshened up with new crank seals and a few bearings. That made it attractive to me because I didn't feel like I had the time or inclination right now to properly go through the motor. I have just taken the rest of the bike apart and cleaned and regreased all the bearings, new wheel bearings and seals, new spokes on the rear wheel, a thorough fork service, and I had the shock serviced and revalved by a local guru. Cosmetically the bike is very nice and only has 913 miles on it.

Anyway, the top end had to be replated and top end replaced because the crank seals leaked. A lot of people seem to be in denial about needing to split the case but in my opinion you are flirting with disaster if you don't replace the crank seals. There is no better time to do it than when you have the top end off and the motor sitting on your workbench. Considering the bike is almost 20 years old it is a good time to replace every seal and gasket in the motor and inspect the tranny and crank for wear while you have it apart.

A few simple things to do that will create that "new bike feel" are a thorough brake service and lube or replace the throttle and clutch cables. The brakes almost certainly need to be completely disassembled so you can clean and inspect everything. Use some grease in the proper places on the caliper, replace the pads, deglaze the rotors, and refill with some new DOT4 and the brake system will work as new.

As far as painting or powdercoating, that is up to you but by the time you spend the money to get the bike 100% mecanically correct you will already be invested in it far deeper than it is worth. Fully restoring a 1994 KDX200 is certainly not a good way to make money but the bike will pay big dividends in the fun you will have riding it.

As far as the RB carb and head mods- I would get the suspension well sorted first and then see if you need any extra power. For tight trail work the KDX is very competent in the right hands and the power delivery is very linear in stock form. The stock bike is a very forgiving setup and fun as hell but also a good platform for a few upgrades if you feel the need.

Also, we need pics!!!

[6 Riders]

I keep my brakes in real good shape, put new rotors on her and even went to custom made SS brake lines! I had the suspension completely gone through last year, including a few mods on the forks to make them butter smooth. I've really kept up on maintenance, with the exception of the motor.
I looked inside the pipe this morning, there is a ton of carbon in there, for sure the silencer needs repacking, I'll do all new bearings throughout the bike and a new KIPS valve set up.
Probably just going to sand, prime and paint the frame using rattle cans, then throw some grip tape in the high wear areas after that. I'll polish up the swing arm too. I only have until March to get done, so I'll be busy for a while!

[KDXsg]

I say go for it if you have the spare cash and time. I have rebuilt my 92 kdx twice during her 21years of service. certainly in my view worth every penny. the fun and knowledge that it given me cant compare to how much its worth monetarily. I will and still keeping her for as long as I can.

[6 Riders]

well, I got the cylinder off, head off and .................
I need at the least a good hone, piston, rings and of course gaskets. I can't get the "screw" that holds the KiPS in place, but I will have a go at that with an impact type screw driver. I'm actually surprised to see the KiPS valves in place and working! The pipe is full of carbon, I'm going to have to figure out how to get that cleaned up. After I deal with the cylinder and piston, I'll send the head and carb off to RB. While all that work is going on, I'll order up a complete set of bearings and a new pivot bolt, I couldn't believe how hard that was to remove!

[6 Riders]

Errr, never mind on the KiPS valve, the main valve is NOT there, just the subs.