1989 KDX 200 Basket Case Project

[Thrahl]

A chain for $20? Can you post details?

Everything is the cheapest you can find on eBay.
I know most people on this forum only use o-ring chains but they are way too expensive for me, even with all of their benefits.

Chain - http://www.ebay.com/itm/270963251467?ss ... 1497.l2649
Swingarm Bearings - http://www.ebay.com/itm/250875109239?ss ... 1497.l2649 (they must have raised their price $3 very soon after I bought it.)
Wheel bearings - http://www.ebay.com/itm/140766935417?ss ... 1497.l2649

[Julien D]

Be careful with that chain.

I'd skip that rear fender too. Put the money toward one that will fit. A used kx500 rear fender would be a better buy.

[Thrahl]

Be careful with that chain.

I'd skip that rear fender too. Put the money toward one that will fit. A used kx500 rear fender would be a better buy.

It should be fine. I have only ever used the cheapest chain available for every project I have done. It's all from China anyways.
I'm sure it will stretch and wear out faster than decent stuff though but at that price I can just replace it again.

Of course I would rather go with the kx500 fender but I would have to wait for a decent one to pop up on eBay and then it will probably be at least $30.
I figured for $4 it would have to literally not fit whatsoever even after very extensive modding to not get my money's worth.
Maybe I will get it, hack it up and use it, then if it looks bad replace it down the line if I find a good deal on a kx500 one.

[Thack]

I'm pretty sure the fender wont fit well. The E series has a weird rectangular bulge that meets the subframe. The newer fenders don't. You may be able to bolt it up but without proper support it could fall off while riding.

[kyledsmith87]

From my experience, don't use cheap chains, I had a DR650, within a week of fitting a cheap eBay chain, it snapped and took out the engine case. Obviously the KDX doesn't put out the torque a 650 would but steer clear if you can.

[KarlP]

Be a little bit careful on the rear fender. It also serves the function of keeping water out of the air box.

On my Kids little Husky 50, years ago, the owner before me had assembled the rear fender/side panels/airbox incorrectly. Water and mud was funneled straight into the airbox with every puddle.

On my hybrid I had to cut and add an additional piece out of an old fender to protect the airbox.

Look up under the seat at the fender and forward to be sure water and crap is going to be properly directed.

Have fun!

[Thrahl]

From my experience, don't use cheap chains, I had a DR650, within a week of fitting a cheap eBay chain, it snapped and took out the engine case. Obviously the KDX doesn't put out the torque a 650 would but steer clear if you can.

Well the chain is getting here today so I'm gonna stick with it at least for a little while.
But I will be sure to be careful with it. The other stuff I have used this kind of chain on hasn't had as much power as the KDX.
I will be checking for stretch and signs of failure very often.

Be a little bit careful on the rear fender. It also serves the function of keeping water out of the air box.
On my Kids little Husky 50, years ago, the owner before me had assembled the rear fender/side panels/airbox incorrectly. Water and mud was funneled straight into the airbox with every puddle.
On my hybrid I had to cut and add an additional piece out of an old fender to protect the airbox.
Look up under the seat at the fender and forward to be sure water and crap is going to be properly directed.
Have fun!

Well it seems like going with that fender is just going to be a really big hassle so I am going to steer clear.
Unfortunately that means that I probably wont be riding with a fender at all until I can find a deal on one.
I'm just not willing to spend $40-$60 on a little piece of plastic

Anyone know of any other model/year rear fender that will fit decently?
It seems like KX250/125 fenders are more plentiful than KX500.

[Julien D]

I may still have a slightly cracked stock rear. I'd be happy to send it to you for shipping costs to help out with your project. I'll check this afternoon and see if I held onto it. I never throw anything away, but I may have given it to someone.

I THINK the only kx250/125 fender that will fit well is 1989.

[Thrahl]

I may still have a slightly cracked stock rear. I'd be happy to send it to you for shipping costs to help out with your project. I'll check this afternoon and see if I held onto it. I never throw anything away, but I may have given it to someone.

I THINK the only kx250/125 fender that will fit well is 1989.

That would be awesome. I have been looking for mx style fenders more because I prefer the look and they seem to be cheaper but more than anything I just want something to keep the mud off my back
There is actually a black '89 KX125 on eBay right now in good condition for $30 shipped.

Also I have been doing more research on cheap chains and have read a lot of horror stories. Granted almost all of them are on high powered street bikes.

I might end up just unloading this chain right back on eBay and spend a little more on a decent one. People were linking other pretty cheap (~$30-40) chains that they said held up fine.

[Julien D]

I can get a good year or so out of a standard RK chain. Not a great unit, but will do the job and you won't have to worry about it snapping on you. There's an ebay seller that has them for about $29 shipped.

[KDXGarage]

Someone is parting out a 1993 KDX200, with the fenders around $30 shipped right now.

[Thrahl]

Small updates again. I heeded everyone's advice and am returning the eBay chain. A new RK is on the way. It was only $25 but after the return shipping I have to pay on the other chain it is basically $30. Oh well still a decent price and much more peace of mind.
I also borrowed a harmonic balancer puller from a friend and will be making a homemade case splitter. Pics of that hopefully in the next few days.

I got my swingarm bearings in the other day and went to install them today. Me being impatient, uninformed, and a know-it-all thought I should just tap the bearing in with a socket and hammer....
Not until I realized that I had crushed the bearing so that it no longer spun did I realize I should maybe look up how to properly install them
I made up a homemade press with a socket, all-thread rod, washers, and nuts and quickly and easily installed the other bearing.
So I will be getting another set shortly. You live and learn I guess. At least it was only a $12 mistake.

A little more exciting news. I found a silencer for the bike. A NOS FMF for $36 shipped on eBay. I imagine the old style ones are pretty much the same as the new ones and this one is apparently brand new never installed so I think that was a killer deal. Hopefully it isn't too loud. I like to hear that ring-ting-brap but some exhausts are just annoyingly loud.

Also haven't heard back from Langcourt yet. It's been 8 business days so hopefully I will be getting that call soon and can finally slap the engine back together and start her up shortly.

Quick question. Is there a bearing or something at the top of the rear shock where it connects to the frame? This part.

On mine I see what looks like a seal on each side and maybe a bushing in the middle like the swingarm. But nothing moves at all.
I just don't want to go crazy with a hammer and torch if everything is supposed to be like that.


Also, JulienD, did you get a chance to see if you have that old rear fender laying around? No rush on that, just curious.

[KDXrider1989]

funny you mentioned that FMF silencer, because I was bidding on the same one

[KDXrider1989]

and on the parts diagram it looks to be a bushing:

part# 92092

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorc ... 8#sch55244

[Thrahl]

funny you mentioned that FMF silencer, because I was bidding on the same one

Was that you that I got into a little war with at the end? haha. I never bid on things on eBay, pretty much just buy it now so it's exciting when I actually win a bid.

and on the parts diagram it looks to be a bushing:

part# 92092

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorc ... 8#sch55244

I figured there was something there. I just don't know if it is supposed to move or not. Light taps with a hammer does nothing.

[KDXrider1989]

You might have to press it out, getting it out with a hammer is doable but you might damage the bushing

[kyledsmith87]

You can tap in swingarm bearings, you just have to make sure they are lubed up. The All balls bearings have 1 side that is a little more re-enforced than the other just for this purpose.

[Thrahl]

Well I guess it wouldn't be a true rebuild without tearing it down the the very last nut and bolt.
Made up my crankcase splitter today from a harmonic balancer puller and some steel bar I had lying around.

Worked like a charm. Total cost was about 3 dollars for the longer bolts that screw into the case.
I will be keeping my eye out for a cheap harmonic puller for myself since this was a loan from a friend.


The bearing pulled out with the crank. I guess this happens sometimes? Does it need to be pulled and reinstalled in the case or can I leave it on since I am not replacing it?


This seal I believe is good. I never had any gas/oil in the stator side so I will be leaving it alone.
I will be replacing the other seal though since there was a gas smell in the oil and I am already in there.


Transmission looks good. I don't really know what to look for aside from worn/chipped teeth or metal or something. Everything moves smooth.

A couple of problems though. First off, I didn't think this all the way through.

I didn't take off this nut on the right side of the crankshaft before removing everything. The manual says it is torqued to 58 ft-lbs.
How can I go about getting any leverage now that everything is apart?

The second problem is that of the crank seals. Ronayers has two listed, 92049-1047 and 92049-1068. From some research it seems like they changed the seal after '89 from the 1068 to the 1047.
So I need the 1068 seal correct? I am just a bit puzzled as to why they would change literally that one piece after the first year.

[Slick_Nick]

Remove and replace the crank bearings. DO NOT chance reusing them. They are damaged when you split the cases.

That nut can be taken off with an impact wrench.

[rbates9]

Remove and replace the crank bearings. DO NOT chance reusing them. They are damaged when you split the cases.

That nut can be taken off with an impact wrench.

+1 If you have to split the cases for any reason then you should replace the crank seals and bearings. Do you want to take the 50/50 chance of doing this again after the first ride?