would this be an improvement?
- diymirage
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would this be an improvement?
hey guys, i came across this and it is in my budget :)
but would it be an improvement or not ?
http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/spo/2891689240.html
thanks guys
but would it be an improvement or not ?
http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/spo/2891689240.html
thanks guys
- Julien D
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- diymirage
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what about a 99 KX 125 set up ?
twice the money for just the front end but it has all the parts i believe i need :)
(i can post pics if needed, thanks for the info)
twice the money for just the front end but it has all the parts i believe i need :)
(i can post pics if needed, thanks for the info)
newbbewb wrote:DIYmirage has it right.
-1996 KDX 200 woods weapon (converted to 99 green body)
-1996 KDX 200 plated street toy (barney edition)
-2003 Yamaha TTR125-L (wifeys bike)
-1997 KDX 220 project bike
- Tedh98
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- diymirage
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thanks Ted
im looking at a set for $220, wheel, axles, caliper tripple clamps, you name it
then all i would need to do is have the stems swapped right ?
havent seen them in real life but they look decent dont they ?
im looking at a set for $220, wheel, axles, caliper tripple clamps, you name it
then all i would need to do is have the stems swapped right ?
havent seen them in real life but they look decent dont they ?
newbbewb wrote:DIYmirage has it right.
-1996 KDX 200 woods weapon (converted to 99 green body)
-1996 KDX 200 plated street toy (barney edition)
-2003 Yamaha TTR125-L (wifeys bike)
-1997 KDX 220 project bike
- rbates9
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Looking at them in real life is VERY important.
If you can get the complete front end then you are set. You will need to swap the stem and get a spacer for the bottom of the upper triple clamp. Also RB can do an axle mod for you to run the KDX wheel and odo. And for what it's worth the KDX caliper will fit directly on those forks and it just happens to be a better, larger caliper so if you can get them to take some money off for the brakes you might get them cheaper yet!
If you can get the complete front end then you are set. You will need to swap the stem and get a spacer for the bottom of the upper triple clamp. Also RB can do an axle mod for you to run the KDX wheel and odo. And for what it's worth the KDX caliper will fit directly on those forks and it just happens to be a better, larger caliper so if you can get them to take some money off for the brakes you might get them cheaper yet!
- diymirage
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Thanks for the info
Im thinking I would like to run the KX. Rim rather than my stocker just for sake of it being handed easier (plus im hoping to fund this project by selling the stock rim) so would my KDX caliper work on the KX rim aswell?
Im thinking I would like to run the KX. Rim rather than my stocker just for sake of it being handed easier (plus im hoping to fund this project by selling the stock rim) so would my KDX caliper work on the KX rim aswell?
newbbewb wrote:DIYmirage has it right.
-1996 KDX 200 woods weapon (converted to 99 green body)
-1996 KDX 200 plated street toy (barney edition)
-2003 Yamaha TTR125-L (wifeys bike)
-1997 KDX 220 project bike
- diymirage
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allright, i almost got this deal worked out but i just have ONE more little question before i bite the bullet...the 99 KX 125 forks (the ones in the picture) are a good upgrade yes ?
newbbewb wrote:DIYmirage has it right.
-1996 KDX 200 woods weapon (converted to 99 green body)
-1996 KDX 200 plated street toy (barney edition)
-2003 Yamaha TTR125-L (wifeys bike)
-1997 KDX 220 project bike
- rbates9
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Yes they are an up grade. They will not be a "just bolt them on and go" up grade but still an up grade.
You will need to (read the fork swap section) swap the KDX stem into the KX triple clamp, get a spacer for under the upper triple, figure out what brake set up you want on the front end ( I would recommend the complete KDX setup), make adjustments to the steering stops to fit your bike, devise a way to mount the head light to the new forks, at least reseal the forks before you put them on, take a look at disabling the bladders in the forks, and ride from there. After you get a feel for the new forks you may or may not need to do some valving work.
You will need to (read the fork swap section) swap the KDX stem into the KX triple clamp, get a spacer for under the upper triple, figure out what brake set up you want on the front end ( I would recommend the complete KDX setup), make adjustments to the steering stops to fit your bike, devise a way to mount the head light to the new forks, at least reseal the forks before you put them on, take a look at disabling the bladders in the forks, and ride from there. After you get a feel for the new forks you may or may not need to do some valving work.
- diymirage
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thanks for the info :)
i can do the stem swap , no problem, the spacer is so the stem isnt too sloppy in the top clamp right ?
got that too
havent thought about the headlight yet but i was hoping the pinchbolts would be spaced the same and it would all bolt right up BUT if not im sure i can make it work
resealing them is new to me but i think i could do it which just leaves the bladders, ill be honoust with you, no idea what they are for or why i would want to remove them in the first place and THAT i am not sure if im up too
what would happen if i left them in there ?
i can do the stem swap , no problem, the spacer is so the stem isnt too sloppy in the top clamp right ?
got that too
havent thought about the headlight yet but i was hoping the pinchbolts would be spaced the same and it would all bolt right up BUT if not im sure i can make it work
resealing them is new to me but i think i could do it which just leaves the bladders, ill be honoust with you, no idea what they are for or why i would want to remove them in the first place and THAT i am not sure if im up too
what would happen if i left them in there ?
newbbewb wrote:DIYmirage has it right.
-1996 KDX 200 woods weapon (converted to 99 green body)
-1996 KDX 200 plated street toy (barney edition)
-2003 Yamaha TTR125-L (wifeys bike)
-1997 KDX 220 project bike
- Tedh98
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Disabling or removing the bladders isn't difficult at all. Most people feel it improves the feel of the forks, especially in the woods.
I've got some pictures HERE on the bladders from a set of '04 forks. Should be similar for your '99s.
Adding to what rbates suggested, you should also put new bushings in the forks. It is always best to start with fresh forks (oil, seals, bushings) as your baseline so you can correctly identify what you like and don't like about the them.
I've got some pictures HERE on the bladders from a set of '04 forks. Should be similar for your '99s.
Adding to what rbates suggested, you should also put new bushings in the forks. It is always best to start with fresh forks (oil, seals, bushings) as your baseline so you can correctly identify what you like and don't like about the them.
- diymirage
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shoot
this is all becoming a hassle
lets say im lazy (or just not up to the task at hand)
and i replace the forks with the KX forks as is (id still swap the stem ofcourse)
whould that be worth it ?
this is all becoming a hassle
lets say im lazy (or just not up to the task at hand)
and i replace the forks with the KX forks as is (id still swap the stem ofcourse)
whould that be worth it ?
newbbewb wrote:DIYmirage has it right.
-1996 KDX 200 woods weapon (converted to 99 green body)
-1996 KDX 200 plated street toy (barney edition)
-2003 Yamaha TTR125-L (wifeys bike)
-1997 KDX 220 project bike
- rbates9
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+1 on the bushings. You should be able to get a kit that comes with the seals and the bushings together. Resealing them and putting in the new bushings is not a big deal. If you replace the seals you will have the bushings out already. If you don't reseal the forks chances are very good that you will get practice at removing and installing the forks when you put the seals in the next week.
The bladders were not a big deal to disable. I had time to read ALOT while waiting for the parts to come in for mine and I don't think I saw anyone say they liked them in there so I removed them before I put the forks on for the first time.
The KDX head light mounts can be used for the top mount but you will need to get some rubber strap mounts from UFO or some other aftermarket plastic maker for the bottom.
All in all if you have the parts and the tools to do this job it should not take that long at all to do. You should be able to easily get the forks resealed in a couple of hours if it's your first time doing it. You will probably spend more time getting your bars back where you want them than doing the rest of the work.
The top clamp spacer from RB is a very nice clean way to get that part done. There is other ways to do it but for the ease and cleanliness it is hard to beat.
It is your bike to do with what you want but you should at least reseal them before putting them on. While they are apart you will get a good look at how they are inside so if something is not right you can fix it before it goes all wrong.
The bladders were not a big deal to disable. I had time to read ALOT while waiting for the parts to come in for mine and I don't think I saw anyone say they liked them in there so I removed them before I put the forks on for the first time.
The KDX head light mounts can be used for the top mount but you will need to get some rubber strap mounts from UFO or some other aftermarket plastic maker for the bottom.
All in all if you have the parts and the tools to do this job it should not take that long at all to do. You should be able to easily get the forks resealed in a couple of hours if it's your first time doing it. You will probably spend more time getting your bars back where you want them than doing the rest of the work.
The top clamp spacer from RB is a very nice clean way to get that part done. There is other ways to do it but for the ease and cleanliness it is hard to beat.
It is your bike to do with what you want but you should at least reseal them before putting them on. While they are apart you will get a good look at how they are inside so if something is not right you can fix it before it goes all wrong.
- diymirage
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thanks for all the info guys
ill see what i can come up with for prices on the bushing seals and what not
ill keep you posted
ill see what i can come up with for prices on the bushing seals and what not
ill keep you posted
newbbewb wrote:DIYmirage has it right.
-1996 KDX 200 woods weapon (converted to 99 green body)
-1996 KDX 200 plated street toy (barney edition)
-2003 Yamaha TTR125-L (wifeys bike)
-1997 KDX 220 project bike
- Tedh98
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It will be tempting to pick-up a Pivot Works or some other aftermarket kit because of the low price. I've read of a lot of problems and have had my own issues with those kits.diymirage wrote:ill see what i can come up with for prices on the bushing seals and what not
There are a couple of eBay sellers that offer genuine KYB parts for not too much more. I think you'll be better off in the long run by spending a little more now.
- diymirage
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i did see the KYB kits online for about 60 dollars
but thats just a tad more then i want to spend, i mean, im allready forking out 180 for the front end, hard to convince the wife i need to spend another 60 on top of that
right now im thinking of just slapping them on first and then in a few months when money isnt so tight rebuild them
but thats just a tad more then i want to spend, i mean, im allready forking out 180 for the front end, hard to convince the wife i need to spend another 60 on top of that
right now im thinking of just slapping them on first and then in a few months when money isnt so tight rebuild them
newbbewb wrote:DIYmirage has it right.
-1996 KDX 200 woods weapon (converted to 99 green body)
-1996 KDX 200 plated street toy (barney edition)
-2003 Yamaha TTR125-L (wifeys bike)
-1997 KDX 220 project bike
- Tedh98
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At the very least I'd spend $20 to put new oil in them. Take them apart to make sure everything looks OK before you start riding them. That could avoid an injury or damage to the forks. For all you know all the oil has leaked out or a part could be mangled in there.
I bought a pair of forks that had been rebuilt by a suspension shop. Took them apart to make some shim changes (they were revalved for MX) only to find that a nut on one of the base valves was barely on finger tight. None of the nuts on the mid or base valves had loctite on them.
I bought a pair of forks that had been rebuilt by a suspension shop. Took them apart to make some shim changes (they were revalved for MX) only to find that a nut on one of the base valves was barely on finger tight. None of the nuts on the mid or base valves had loctite on them.
- diymirage
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allright, new oil it is
BUT you know ill be back here soon to ask what weight oil, how mcuh of it (per fork) and why i cant use 10W30 since i have it laying around anyway ;)
BUT you know ill be back here soon to ask what weight oil, how mcuh of it (per fork) and why i cant use 10W30 since i have it laying around anyway ;)
newbbewb wrote:DIYmirage has it right.
-1996 KDX 200 woods weapon (converted to 99 green body)
-1996 KDX 200 plated street toy (barney edition)
-2003 Yamaha TTR125-L (wifeys bike)
-1997 KDX 220 project bike
- B737driver
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My 2 cents....I bought a 2001 KX 125 front end (triples and forks only). Had RB do the stem swap and got the RB'd front axle to run the KDX front wheel. The forks needed new seals...so I had them replaced. At some point I will have the forks re-valved and set up correctly for my weight, riding style, etc. That being said.....this is still a huge improvement from the OEM setup.
This is not a "plug and play" setup. There will be questions on where to run the brake line, how high to raise the forks in the clamps, etc.
That being said, there is a wealth of information here to help you through the process. You will not regret this upgrade.
This is not a "plug and play" setup. There will be questions on where to run the brake line, how high to raise the forks in the clamps, etc.
That being said, there is a wealth of information here to help you through the process. You will not regret this upgrade.
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