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Mr. Wibbens wrote:Anyone ever get this fugger out easily?




Next time take and pack that hole flush with grease and find a bolt or round stock that fits tight inside the bearing and hit it with a hammer. Refill with grease after each hit. Two or three times and it's out.
All your doing is pressing the bearing out using the grease.

Used to do the same thing with pilot bearings and bushings.

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I'm a little skeptical with that technique



Probably shoot grease right in my face

juliend wrote:Dang. And those were new last year?? What bearing kit did you use?

Actually what happ'd was last year when I pulled an allnighter trying to get my bike put back together I put the crank seal in the countershaft hole and the countershaft seal in the crank hole.

Then when we were putting the cases back together, the mechanic went "WHOA...!"

We pulled it all apart and he thought that the seal might be ok, but I guess it was not

I'm a little skeptical with that technique



Probably shoot grease right in my face [/quote]


I didn't see it was wide open like that .
A pic with you trying would have been pretty funny though !

For all you virgins that never split your cases yet

[youtube][/youtube]

Might be time to call in a professional...



Got the piece of **** to move about 2mm in about 10 hrs

Most of that time was grinding down the tools to get a grip of the bearing

Spun and welded it self?

turns out it never moved

I cut the outer race off and the inner never moved a bit

I'm carefully cutting the inner now

that was fun

Next time try this. Remove the outer race first. Then use a MIG welder and run a hot bead around the OD of the inner race. The heat from the weld will loosen up the inner race enough that it will almost fall off. Just be sure to protect all of the other parts from weld splatter. I've removed many bearings like this and it works very well.

He doesn't have a welder, yo.

Take it to a muffler shop. They shouldn't charge much to run one bead around a bearing race. It would be easier than trying to cut the race, and you don't take a chance of notching the crank with the cutter.

Well my whole point was to fix it myself

Local shop offered to pull it off for $10

I spent closer to $50 but got it off all by myself

If you are working on the motor on the bench, here's a neat way to keep everything from turning while you torque the clutch bolts



I use aluminum rivet backing plates

new tyre showed up



Shinko Radial

big gear head wrote:Next time try this. Remove the outer race first. Then use a MIG welder and run a hot bead around the OD of the inner race. The heat from the weld will loosen up the inner race enough that it will almost fall off. Just be sure to protect all of the other parts from weld splatter. I've removed many bearings like this and it works very well.

Why weld it ?
Cut the race sideways with a torch almost all the way through,
crack it with a chisel and slide it off.

I've seen many people accidently cut a notch in a shaft when trying to cut a bearing off that way. If you are excellent with a tourch then that's fine, but most people are not perfect and there is a lot less chance of ruining a shaft by doing the weld.

The problem with welding is that if the bearing still won't come off then when it cools it is even tighter. I have used the welding thing many times but usually on the outer race of a cup / cone.

I've removed thousands of bearings in my shop over the last 14 years (I own a automotive rear end shop) and I've done this many times with no problems. I've removed axle bearings, pinion bearings and differential bearings this way and they always come off. I only do this with bearings that will not budge in my press.

This is just a suggestion. I didn't say do it or die. If you don't want to do it this way then don't. It's always worked for me.

I am truly sorry your majesty, I never meant to question your all knowing knowledge.

Look man, I was just trying to be helpfull. I didn't mean any disrespect to anyone. This works for me, and I thought it would work for other too.