KDXRIDER.NET

Both our KDXs have very little feel in the rear brake pedal. With boots on, it's either "off" or "locking up the rear wheel".
This is a problem when descending steep hills with poor traction (loose rocks, mud, etc.). Sometimes front wheel + engine braking is not the right plan.

BTW, both bike's rear brakes are in good shape, OEM pads, clean, bled, etc.

Looking at the design, the pedal is a bit small. It's hard to feel when you are on it, and I'm thinking of a much stiffer return spring.

Still, it may not have enough travel to feel "progressive"

Anyone else have similar issue? Maybe this should be in "Riding Techniques"?

I've had problems with this from time to time with the kdx and I've done two things; I keep the pedal adjusted a bit lower than most do so I don't tend to drag and heat up the rear inadvertently, and I use carbon-based rear pads which: (1) don't glaze like sintered do - which is a cause of easy lock-up and (2) are more progressive than sintered. The down side of carbon-based (or kevlar-based) is they wear faster, especially in wet conditions. My WR250R is even worse than the kdx - with the stock sintered I fry them in an hour of riding - the carbon pad fixed it too. On my KDX, I drilled more cooling holes in the rear rotor, but that might be an extreme move for most folks.

Also, if your rotor is worn, it takes some time to break in to get full contact of the pads, in the mean-time the brake overheats more easily.

I've been shutting it off and coasting in neutral. That turns it into a 220 lb, 12" travel DH mountain bike. I'm really used to riding DH on a bicycle, but new to the motorbike.

Shutting off the engine lets me feel the ground and the bike a lot more.

How high is your pedal?

I can ride with my toe covering the pedal all day on mine, but I rode Chris's bike on Sat and just the slightest touch of his pedal and it locks up. His pedal was way to high for me

Mr. Wibbens wrote:How high is your pedal?

Kinda a personal question there, big guy!

Mr. Wibbens wrote:I can ride with my toe covering the pedal all day on mine, but I rode Chris's bike on Sat and just the slightest touch of his pedal and it locks up. His pedal was way to high for me

I will try to move the brake pedal lower like yours. Got any good pics of your pedal height?

That video you posted of you guys sliding down the steep mud is the type of situation I'm talking about. No run-out at the bottom, or a sharp turn and usually a longer steeper section that doesn't work well with engine braking.

heckler wrote:I've been shutting it off and coasting in neutral. That turns it into a 220 lb, 12" travel DH mountain bike. I'm really used to riding DH on a bicycle, but new to the motorbike.

Shutting off the engine lets me feel the ground and the bike a lot more.

That's funny, 'cause my son usually says the same. He rides a Bullit in Santa Cruz.

I don't like the sound of my Kawasaki's front tires sliding around. Can't hear that with the engine running.

To you, it's a 220 lb DH bike. To me, it's a 220 lb backpack as I tumble down the cliff.

Pics are on the way...

Ok here it is





Ever since I crushed my two little toes I'm very leary of hitting anything again, so I just run with my toe up on the brake pedal all the time

Like my spring?

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Mr. Wibbens wrote:Ok here it is

Like my spring?

Is it special?

Yah, I'm going to try to move the pedal down that low and keep boot on top. I think my toes are usually right beside the pedal and I have to lift to get on the little bugger. It's not much of a lift when you are back over the rear fender, though

This is the kinda thing I'm talking about (not me and not my picture). Unlike the mud, this stuff lets you know that falling can have serious consequenses.



Barry

That's a long way down.

The spring was not connected to the tang

How About braided lines? I've been thinking of installing some.

I did that. Galfers makes a nice braided rear brake line for the KDX. That is definately one upgrade I do to any bike I get - put braided lines on. I think it makes a big difference, especially when you ride a long time and the OEM plastic expands.

I don't really see the need on the KDX

barryadam wrote:

heckler wrote:I've been shutting it off and coasting in neutral. That turns it into a 220 lb, 12" travel DH mountain bike. I'm really used to riding DH on a bicycle, but new to the motorbike.

Shutting off the engine lets me feel the ground and the bike a lot more.

That's funny, 'cause my son usually says the same. He rides a Bullit in Santa Cruz.

He also suggested I adapt a hand operated rear brake on his KDX. Might actually work a lot better than heavy stiff boots on a 1/2" travel, light-switch pedal.

My bike has a rear brake?

fuzzy wrote:My bike has a rear brake?

Apparently, braking on a pancake is not required.....

Mr. Wibbens wrote:

Indawoods wrote:80 and sunny in Illinois....

and flat as a pancake

You guys need to learn the value of using your front brake.... Damn newbies....

Yea that must be it