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I'm in the market for a new chain and I wanted to see what others have had success with. I have a 2005 KDX 220 with 13/49 gearing, so I will need a 110 link. Which chain do you guys suggest? I have been looking at this one http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/produ ... eAttr=1625

Thanks,

John

I'm running the primary dirve x-ring chain with steel sprockets on my 200. Installed at the start of last season. I used the FRP chain guide to provide clearance for the x-ring. With five bikes to maintain, I was looking to reduce maintainence between rides. The kids bikes all get a chain adjust every ride. With this chain, I did one adjust after the first ride and then don't believed I touched the snails again until the end of end of season. Yeah it takes more power to drive, but I'm old and slow, so who cares.

Thanks for the reply, I am still using my stock chain guide, so I will probably need to stick with the o-ring. What do you mean by "it takes more power to drive"?

Thanks,

John

o-ring and x-ring chains create more friction, thus sapping some power. Spin the rear wheel on an o-ringed bike vs the rear wheel on a standard roller chained bike and you will see the difference.

juliend...thanks for the explanation. Can you recommend a good standard roller chain for a kdx 220?

Thanks again,

John

My current RK non O-ring has 17 months on it

Is this like the one you have? http://www.bikebandit.com/rk-520-kz6-he ... race-chain I guess any 520 non o-ring RK will work fine?

A 220 comes with an O-ring chain, so you don't need a new guide unless the old one is worn out.

my stock guide is in good shape...will an x ring work for me or is it wider than an o ring

I use the RMATV high end chain. Stretches during the first couple of rides but after that it's been good. I will use them forever.

Thanks, I guess I'll go with the primary drive (RMATV) x ring. I'm not sure running a non o ring or x ring chain will make a noticable difference in the way my bike runs. If anyone has information to suggest otherwise, please let me know.

Thanks,

John

Same here....my bike can toss me whenever it wants so chain drag isn't a big deal to me

FOrgot to add....I clean and lube chain after every ride

I'm not worried about the drag, I just don't like how they get all kinked up.

Thanks to everyone for their input...it's greatly appreciated.

Mr. Wibbens wrote:I'm not worried about the drag, I just don't like how they get all kinked up.

true

My next chain is going to be a standard chain... I have used O ring, X ring and standard. They all last about the same amount of time... Standard chain is just easier to work with....

Inda,

Do you have to adjust a standard chain more often? Which standard chain do you recommend?

Thanks,

John

DID makes a nice gold non oring. That would be my preference but lately I've been running cheaper stuff. The gold ones are so much easier to clean and maintain

Could not tell ya about how they compare adjustment wise. In gear I'm pushing close to 300lbs. No matter what kinda chain I run, I'm adjusting often... But then again I always where the chain out before I run out of adjustment

Oh and sorry, I'm not Inda

I think most decent chains will last a long time as long as you don't beat them to death on the "chatter".

What I mean is, when you go over a rock, root, small bump, log, jump, acceleration bumps, whatever...and your rear wheel gets air-born for just a bit, if you're on the gas your rear wheel will speed up b/c it's in the air.

Then when it comes down and touches the ground, your rear wheel will instantly slow down but if you're still revving it up the force of the motor will pull your chain tight like crazy, putting a butt-load of unnecessary force on it instantly. Make sense?

What Wibby said minus the 300lb part.

Bet that boy needs 2 12oz packages of sausage!