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wheel lacing

Posted: 06:38 pm Jan 16 2010
by scheckaet
I have this spare 01 KX wheel and I'm thinking about lacing a 18" rim.
How hard is it? can it be done without special tool?
I'm thinking using the wheel in the swing arm on the stand and go from there.

All the spoke were seized so I took a shortcut :mrgreen: (the rim was cracked and somebody welded it so not sure how safe it would have been:? )

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After checking the hub I noticed this on all the holes:

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I filed them smooth but wonder if it's worth/safe lacing it or not. :?

Thanks

wilf

"edit": found this good article on TT:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showth ... p?t=583471

Posted: 09:50 pm Jan 16 2010
by skythrasher
Check the size of the wholes for wear. Perfect reason to put in a set of of oversize from Buchannon. You usually have to drill or ream the hub holes for them anyhow.

Posted: 12:42 am Jan 17 2010
by skipro3
I am doing the same thing; putting a 18" rim on my KX250. Have you gotten a rim and spoke set yet?

I got a deal off ebay; a black rim 2.15x18 and a set of spokes delivered for $150.

I laced a rim to my KDX rear hub years ago. It isn't too hard but I had someone helping me who had done it before. The easy way is to loosely attach it all, then take it in to a shop and have them true it up. But my bet is that you will end up doing it all yourself.

Posted: 01:01 am Jan 17 2010
by scheckaet
I haven't ordered the rim or spokes yet since i'm not sure of the quality of the hub. (doesn't look too bad)
From what i read it's not too hard, just need patience, not that i have much but i don't need to rush anything since this wheel is a spare i have (and my hybrid is still in the works). :roll:

Are you going to change you gearing since you're opting for a smaller wheel?

Posted: 01:25 am Jan 17 2010
by skipro3
No because an 18" tire has a taller profile to make up for it. I'm going to put a trials tire on it as well. In fact, last time I was up at carvr's place, he has a trials on an 18" rim mounted on his bike, we did a quick measure and the rear tire was within one inch of being as tall as his 21" front wheel/tire. He had to drop his forks in the clamps to keep from stink bugging around.

Main reason I'm putting a 18" rim on is for the trials tire. Carvr's running as low as 4 psi. He's raving about the ride and is walking that talk as well. That low pressure with the tall side wall and that tire wraps itself around things instead of spinning on top.

Posted: 01:27 am Jan 17 2010
by skipro3
Here's the folks I talked to in order to get my rim and spoke kit...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DNA-Whee ... ccessories

Posted: 01:42 am Jan 17 2010
by Mr. Wibbens
Used to be a great article somewhere on the net on how to respoke a rim

I dunno if it was on DRN or what

Posted: 10:59 am Jan 17 2010
by saddletramp

Posted: 12:51 pm Jan 17 2010
by dfeckel
I'm putting an 18" rim on my KX125 hub for my hybrid project, too. I will probably lace everything up but have the shop true it for me. I'm also doing it to be able to run a trials tire. I'm going to try the nuetech tubliss system. Just nrrd to order the spokes--Moose has an 18" set for $70.

Posted: 03:53 pm Jan 17 2010
by scheckaet
does anybody know if these are casting marks or if they have a structural purpose on the hub? I'd like to smooth it down, maybe even polish them a bit, would be easier to clean the hub.

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Posted: 08:41 pm Jan 17 2010
by Brian
I know that some aftermarket hubs are smooth but I don't think I would grind down the ridges on the stock hub. I suspect they are there to add strength. It probably wouldn't hurt to polish them up a little though. I've thought of doing that on my own so the dirt won't stick to it as much.

Posted: 11:40 pm Jan 17 2010
by scheckaet
yeah, I'm afraid of that, i might do a light polish and not risk compromising the integrity of the wheel.

Posted: 01:35 am Jan 18 2010
by skipro3
I got one of those little cheap sand blasters you can hook up to an air compressor and sand blasted mine. Cleaned up nice and left a good appearance.

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Posted: 11:57 am Jan 18 2010
by skipro3
BTW, Rocky Mountain has coupon codes. Just google for it; $10 off $100 orders and $20 off $150 orders.

Tire, tube and some extras like new rim lock, low pressure tire gauge, etc and you can get the $20 savings.

Posted: 09:36 pm Jan 18 2010
by scheckaet
thanks for the idea ski.

Anybody with experience with warp 9 rims and spokes? Can't seem to find excel on rm. :?

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/produ ... icleSelect
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/produ ... icleSelect

Posted: 09:43 pm Jan 18 2010
by Varmint
It seems its 50/50 with Warp 9s; some people say they are great others say they are junk.

MXOldTimer put one on KX, check out the post below

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8097

Posted: 10:39 pm Jan 18 2010
by skythrasher
Puschased a set for my CR250 in the process of building them. We'll see. I have a couple buddys that have had really good luck. Like any wheel the spokes need to be checked pretty often at first to make sure the stay tight. Also it seems some folks get them true and stop without getting them tight enough.

Posted: 10:38 pm Jan 19 2010
by scheckaet
what type of spoke wrench did you all use?
one of these (no torque setting)
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/produ ... lyId=19537
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or one of these ?
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/produ ... lyId=25980
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Posted: 10:43 am Jan 20 2010
by skythrasher
I have the non torque type with interchangeable heads for different sizes. I don't build wheels enough to justify the price of the torque type (Hmmm, I have a case splitter and crank tools that I use once in a blue moon). Maybe one day I'll break down and buy one I think it would be a good investment. I have got along without one for this long. I was taught the "ring like a wine glass method" of torque.

Posted: 12:56 pm Jan 20 2010
by Mr. Wibbens
I've had one like this since I was 12

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