Re: ' BY LISTENUNG TO PEOPLE TELL ME WHAT THEY THINK IS WRONG.'
That's a problem..a basic problem that can't be fixed by anyone 'cept you.
The only reasonable way someone can tell you what they think is wrong is if
they ride your bike. 'Jet By Mail' (email even) is largely a frutile* exercise that won't end particularly well. Yes. I realize that's what is being attempted here.
There is no replacement, no substitute for the rider understanding what's going on and why.
For starters...I don't mind at all answering your questions, but if there is no response to
my questions..then there is no point in continuing the conversation. I ask the questions I do for a reason, in the sequence I ask them for a reason.
I don't know what needle you're running (I've asked), I don't know what clip # you're on (I've asked about four times), I don't know what pipe you have..except that it's made out of 18ga metal. Saying 'clip #2' I'm afraid means nothing to me unless you can tell me
exactly how you came up with that number.
Set your air screw using the proper procedure. That method involves testing throttle response from off-idle (not a completely slack throttle cable), from a slow (walking) speed, one gear up (2nd gear) with the engine under load (uphill, drag a brake). You are looking for the
best throttle response to a flick of the throttle to 3/8- 1/2 open or so. Each time you make an air screw adjustment, ride the bike for a minute or two to 'settle' your new setting. Test throttle response again using the same sequence as noted above. Make only small changes to the air screw (1/8 turn at most). Bracket those changes on either side of a given point until you know what direction is making your response better: Test at 1 1/2..set 1/8 in..reset the bike..test again. Turn out 1/4 (now you're 1/8 out from where you started)..reset the bike..test again.
If your pilot jet is close to the correct size, you will feel a difference and know which direction you need to go to further improve your response test.
A procedure you can use to get you started is a basic 'lean roll' setting. The 'lean roll' method has been used to set low speed carb circuits for decades. It consists of slowly (small increments, not a sweeping movement) adjusting the air screw
out and listening to the bike's idle to respond to the change. When you reach the point the idle speed just reaches the highest point, turn the air screw IN from that point 1/8 or a bit less.
THEN run the throttle response sequence noted above..from that baseline.
At the end, you will either have a bike that responds well (other things being in fairly good order...air filter, correct pilot size, decent plug, properly serviced S/A, reeds, compression...etc etc), or you will know it tends to work better farther out than the air screw should be..or farther IN than it should be.
THAT information will indicate the pilot jet change you need (already noted which way means what).
You asked about plug chops. That's a main jet indicator. Basically..bike at operating temp, new spark plug, WOT run under load( for as long as you can hold it WOT, probably..30 seconds is plenty, less will do), then, shut the bike down
hard: Chop the throttle (drop it..hard), pull the clutch, hit the kill switch. Remove the plug, cut away the threads to plainly show the insulator. Look for a dark ring at the base of the insulator. The richer the bike is running, the thicker the ring will be. Likewise, the leaner, the thinner. A 2mm thick ring is safe (slightly rich), a 1mm thick ring is the gnat's ass, but gives you no room for 'error'. A temp drop of 25ยบ with that jetting and a WOT run may well get you a stuck piston. The plug pictured below is about perfect (it's NOT the result of a plug chop test..but you can very easily see the RING I'm talking about):
*frutile: Morph of 'fruitless' and 'futile'