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I just spent the last two months changing clicker settings on my shock, trying to get it to work right and cursing (in my mind) the guy who revalved it.
I probably owe him an apology for what I was THINKING.

I ran a hare scramble yesterday. 35 miles of roots. It was tough going. My kidneys hurt.

When I got home I pulled some of the easier linkage parts apart and found rust and mud. I pulled the rest apart and found all the bearings were trashed, frozen and rusted.

This is after one year of pretty hard riding. Those linkage points needed servicing six months ago.

This is the second time I've been around this cycle: Find suspension isn't working right, get the idea that the shock needs servicing, remove shock to send it out, and find all the linkage points shot.

One day I'd like to service those linkage points BEFORE they are all trashed.

Hey, maybe I should double my maintenance efforts? Twice nothing equals=

Amen!!

Speaking of which...I'm at about the six month mark myself.

Thanks for the reminder.

Yeah...thanks....a LOT. I LOVE cleaning, soaking, wiping, brushing, cleaning, packing, cleaning, wiping..........

That is probably why I haven't been doing the needed service often enough.

It seems a lot more satisfying to theorize how my suspension guy screwed up, which way to go with clickers, wonder why that other guys bike seems to have such nice suspension.....

I bet more than half of all "revalve" jobs could be avoided by proper care of those dang bearings. In my case, a shock service has always included a full bearing replacement job! My suspension guy may have done nothing to the shock at all, I'd never know.

When I bought my KX farme and parts the bearings where the linkage bolts to the frame was so rusted up it wouldn't come apart. I tried penetrators, a torch, a hammer, everything. I had it broken down to just the frame and tried everything I could to get the bolt out. I had to buy a replacement linkage off Ebay and cut the old one off.

How do you guys clean up the linkage bearings before repacking? I usually just wipe them as good as I can and the add new grease. Should I be using something to actually clean all of the old grease out? I do this several times a year though, usually every time I take the rear wheel off. Only takes 45 minutes or so. Three or four bolts.

Re: 'How do...'

Kerosene, a toothbrush, BraKleen.

'Only takes 45 minutes' = 'Should I...actually CLEAN..the old grease out?'



Why bother? When you rebuild your 11sec bracket car, you DO put the oil back in that you drained out to start with....right?



I know...save your time washing dishes. Just use the same plate over and over. It can't hurt 'ya...right? (UUuummm...is that bacon bits in the mashed 'taters?....or just dried remnants from last week?)

Just razzin' you. But, I can't imagine the effect of stuffing new grease over the top of the crap/junk/dirt/grime/sludge that's already there amounts to anything being done that's useful.

If you have PivotWorks uncaged bearings, take the pins out, THEN clean 'em. If you don't take them out on purpose, they're going to come out as a big surprise...and you won't find all of 'em.....

Please note the original date on this thread is February '09

I replaced all the bearings in my suspension linkage at that time.

With ZERO maintenance between then and now, they are all trashed again.

Doesn't anybody make a good bearing that can run in sand and muddy water without lubrication or seals?

Did I see it suggested that those bearings ought to be serviced every 6 months, at least?

When is the last time YOU looked at YOURS?

Before I put the double-sealed bearing in the lower shock mount, I was servicing the Unitrack arm about every four months.

Merry Christmas!!

Karl, curious... What brand came out and what's going in?

Been at least 7 years since I've been into mine



Probably more than 7 years since I looked at my headbearing

I have seen alot of bearings that are rusted up, especialy trailers bearings after several winters parked in the snow, but have never seen anything as bad as that head bearing, thats nasty.

VirtualVarmint wrote:Karl, curious... What brand came out and what's going in?

I have PivotWorks in the swingarm (loose needles that are a pain fishing out, cleaning, and putting back in)..the others I've used as needed have been OEM.

My head bearings have been serviced within the past year.

...not that I'm Karl........

muddertrucker wrote:I have seen alot of bearings that are rusted up, especialy trailers bearings after several winters parked in the snow, but have never seen anything as bad as that head bearing, thats nasty.

Funny thing, it was barely noticeable the previous day. Just felt a little notchy.
I'd just bought the bike and drove through a nasty rain storm for 4 hours, which must have washed whatever grease was in there out. By morning the headbearing was completely froze up

I NEED to do this..can it be done with this?

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jswag wrote:I NEED to do this..can it be done with this?

Thats one option but I use a 1/2" rod and round out the square part of the socket a little,because the threads of the 3/8" rod tend to strip.Another good option is a large vise bolted on to something sturdy.

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jswag wrote:I NEED to do this..can it be done with this?

How do you plan on getting them out? You'll need a socket or piece of pipe that is larger than the OD of the bering to allow it to pop out. If you have acces to a king pin extrctor set thats works great and should have all the pieces needed.

BTW this also works for the water impeler bearing and seal but be carefull with the seal because it is very fragile. Better off buying 2 or 3 if you have to replace it just in case.

jswag wrote:I NEED to do this..can it be done with this?

Can what be done with that?

Steering head bearings? Use a drift to get the outer races out..use an old race to seat the new races.

Swingarm bearings? Use a drift to remove them.


Unitrack bearings? Use a vise to take 'em out AND put 'em in.


...if you don't have an arbor press.


The all-thread approach works for most any of 'em..in OR out depending on the configuration of washers, sockets, and stuff.

So does a C-clamp (or some similar adjusting clamp). That (or all-thread) is what I prefer for bearing installation on bulky items..like the swingarm. Getting the swingarm situated in a press or vise while holding/guiding the arbors and fittings required is beyond my patience level...and probably my mechanical aptitood, too!


Put an anti-seize grease IN the hole and ON the outside of the bearing (or race) before you press it in.

In a close-fit situation (bottom shock) be sure to measure the distance into the knuckle from both sides..make 'em the same...to ensure the so-called 'seals' fit correctly.


This thread has been running a pretty good long time for no one to have yet brought up the old, 'What about zerks?' question......... That's gotta be right around the corner!

And what about zerks?

Someone ounce said:

"Just razzin' you. But, I can't imagine the effect of stuffing new grease over the top of the crap/junk/dirt/grime/sludge that's already there amounts to anything being done that's useful."

Zerks in my opinion would be doing the same, that is if you never take your likage apart to check it. Zerks can be a bonus but should not replace sheduled maintenence of bearings. If you have no grease water could take up that space and we all know what happens then. A quik shot of grease before every ride or after every wash could be a good thing. I'm still not gonna put any in.

I did NOT see that one coming!!


Since you brought 'em up.................

For all you y'all that think they are a good idea...please do think a bit on the collars used..and how they fit into your greasing scheme.

Whatabout freezin yer berings?