KDXRIDER.NET

Whats up boyz n' girls. I'm a newbie to dirt bikes. Just got me an 02' KDX 200. whats the story on these?

It has an FMF Gnarly pipe and tubine core 2 muffler. I'm not sure which one. How can i tell if it the rev pipe or the low end pipe?

what other mods are needed? the tranny has been all rebuilt on it.

motor is suposiblely new (bike has been sitting for a year) and has a .005 over piston in it. is this engine sleeved or nicasil plated?

It rattles a bunch at idle. is that just the KIPS doing its thing?

I'm a beginer rider. what things can be done to improve the low end power of the bike as i'm a bit timid to really get on the pipe.

I'm a mechanic and a 2 stroke engine portgrinder and have lots of experience with sled engnes. But i have zero bike experience. i've only got about 10 hrs of riding on dirt bikes. i've been riding sleds for 20 years. I'm just looking for info and opinions before i venture out into the unknown on motor bikes.

thanks in advance. BTW this seems like a really cool site.

The KIPS rattles alot it is very common. You can always change the sprocket gearing for more low end. THere is a gear ratio finder on this site. Just take your time learning to ride, there is no use in rushing things along experience will come. At least you can now ride year round b/w the sled and the KDX.
Get the right protective gear, boots, helmet, goggles and stay on the trail.

I second that. Protective gear pays for it'self many times over. Boots, knee pads, elbow pads, chest protector, gloves, eye protection and a helmet. If you're going to be riding in a treed area, barkbusters are a must as well. Get a set that have the aluminum bar. It's expensive to get into that stuff, but the first time you hit a tree with your handlebar and end up getting slung over the tank, roll 4 times down the trail through some rocks and get up unharmed you'll see the value.

Other than that I wouldn't worry about mods right now. If tuned fairly well (carb) it will hang with just about anything out there...it's a true woods bike.

For the future...my thoughts on mods would be:

1)open up the airbox so it can breath....
2)rework front suspension....springs, valves....or motocross forks.
3)carb and head mod...R&B does it well...many post on it here.
4) get a damper to smooth out the hits

Get all that stuff done and practice a lot and I believe you will be able to hang with anyone or anybike out there...enjoy your ride!!

I would guess if it's .005 it's just been plated....Or the seller didn't know what they were talking about, and it just has a new piston in it. Being an engine builder and all, you could always pull the head and look, or look through the exh port. Wouldn't bother until it's wore out though.

On the mounting tab for the pipe you should see a K-30, or K-35.

<Snip from markm>
The largest circumference on a "Torque" / "Woods" model K35 / #0057 is approx 13.3". There is a weld seam at this point, easy to see.

The largest circumference on a "Rev" / "Desert" model K30 / #0056 is approx 14.3". <end snip>

First thing to do is get it jetted clean. If jetting is stock it's rich unless you're at 11k ft, or it's 20deg outside. (EDIT: just wingin that to make a point...CC pointed out a prior FU on my part)

Bike should have plenty of low end, but it is a 200cc bike after all. It's not going to pull like a variable clutched 900cc triple. They ride great "off the pipe" try testing it's "luggability" Generally you can run one gear higher that you would guess and chug along...Even more so with RB's carb work, and a cut head. Being a porter you could cut on those too, but it's arguable that the stock porting is perfect. There is more bottom end to be had, but of course at a sacrifice for some off the top. If you do have a rev pipe, RB's carb work and an VforceIII reed cage will bring back a ton of the low end while maintaining peak.

The -35 is 13"? I don't know where that number came from. Mine's not.

I get 11" on my -35 and 14" on my -30..approximate numbers.

**edit**
No, I don't. Don't where I got 11" from (well, from me), but it's too small. Believe what fuzzy posted!

Point is, the torque/woods pipe is smaller in diameter at the bell than the rev/desert pipe. If your pipe is real close or even touching the RH rad shroud, it's probably a rev/desert pipe. Or...a really screwed up torque/woods pipe!

yeah...the '.005" over' comment is probably bogus.

Kaw plating is their proprietary 'electrofusion'. REplating is generally Nikasil. OEM cylinders do not have sleeves. Whether yours is or not remains to be seen I suppose.

The KDX is a very reliable, although not quite 'state of the art' shall we say, bike.

'Free' modifications that work? Reduce airbox restriction, jet it properly, set shock sag. The shock is OK for a 180# rider or so. The forks aren't.

Respringing the forks to suit (not usually free ) and putting the preload at some reasonable number is a good step.


Rad braces (I don't mean guards) are a very good thing to get...soon. It takes zip to smush the rads..and they ain't cheep if you end up having to buy one.

Likely the BIGGEST benefit will come from seat time. Ride it!

Have fun!!