KDXRIDER.NET

so, to beat a dead horse, I'm looking at my completely disassembled, freshly cleaned KIPS. I examined its workings closely before pulling the operating shaft and dislodging the valves. Here's the thing: the left and right valve open in opposition (i.e. one open the other closed). This is counterintuitive to me. Is it right?

Looking down the exhaust pipe with the KIPS at resting position (both gears TDC) the left valve is open while the right is closed. as you move it through the range, they swap. The manual shows a super dated version of KIPS where nothing appears as it does in my assembly.

Your KIPS timing is off !

Would it run OK with the timing off?

nope

Use the marks on the parts to help you get things lined up. Look closely - a mark on each of the sub shafts will correspond with markings on the teeth on the main shaft and on the subvalve. Once you find them it's a piece of cake.

But it did run, not just okay, but like a freakin beast.

So I should see them both open in unison, for certain?

Also, when I rotate the valves on tooth left or right, it dictates whether they close all the way or open all the way, but I cant have it both ways. I assume that closing all the way takes precedence over opening all the way. Does this sound right?

With the engine not running, (like when the cylinder is off the bike) the 2 subvalve should be closed (at the same time) and the main exhaust valve at its lowest point.
You can see when they're closed / open by lookin through the exhoust port and the resonator chamber

Use the marks on the parts to help you get things lined up. Look closely - a mark on each of the sub shafts will correspond with markings on the teeth on the main shaft and on the subvalve. Once you find them it's a piece of cake.

Have you find the marking? If not, look closely, maybe it need a good cleaning.
Note: you need to remove the sleeve to see the markings (red arrow)

But it did run, not just okay, but like a freakin beast.

It's possible the valves were fine before you took it apart, one could have moved when you took the cylinder off.

The timing is definitely off then. This is the exact position that they were in when I removed the jug. Not sure how they could have moved (unless they jumped out of the hole and then back in) since everything in there moves in concert.

Should be easy enough though. Pull the head and the pipe and simply lift and rotate the valve that is off (which is the one on the resonator side).

As for red marks or arrows, there are none on my valve rods. I spent about three hours disassembling, cleaning and closely inspecting.

As for red marks or arrows, there are none on my valve rods. I spent about three hours disassembling, cleaning and closely inspecting.

No, not on the cylinder, on the pics!

the pictures didn't show up when I read that post before. I just tore it down and rotated the one that was open. I chose all the way closed and most of the way open (about 7/8 of the valve rotates out of the port) rather than all the way open and most of the way closed. Hopefully that will be the ticket.

I saw all the other gear marks (grooves and white indicators) upon dissasembly, but somehow missed the ones on the valves. I think my visual did the trick though.

Too bad I didn't realize that before. I just did my head and carb (hence the teardown) so I won't know what performance gain to attribute to the valves. Going to finish my breakin cycle now.

I just did my head and carb (hence the teardown) so I won't know what performance gain to attribute to the valves.

Think Frankenstein. :)