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So I spent this beautiful day scrubbing her clean then tearing her apart, with the intent of sending the carb and head off to RB.

Then figured, I've got it this far, and everyone says "do the piston." Fair enough.

First question: my piston and all the guts are super clean, bit of carbon up top, big triangular recesses in each side by the wrist pin. Is this a stock piston? If so, I assume my '01 has hardly been ridden.

Second question: So long as I'm at it, should I bore up some? The price difference is negligible, and the work to get to it is the main investment.

If so, how much?

If not, should I hone myself?

If I hone myself, I assume the entire KIPS must come off (logic dictates that I don't want my slurry in there). Are there any secrets in there?

You guys saved my butt when I was about to start cranking on that KIPS drive shaft, then thought to myself "self, isn't there a flat spot hidden under that boot?" Then again when lefty wasn't loosy.

Thanks. You guys are my heroes!

How do I include photos (the image button just miakes indescernible gibberish text)?[/img]

if you have a 220, mske sure you're not running the stock grenade. My guess is the easiest way would be to remove the cylinder and check it out to be 100% sure.
Bore? yes you can, is it worth it if your cylinder isn't damaged? Not to me (I'm not made of money )
I believe 225 works well, there might be bigger that are also reliable but can't remember.
Honing? Don't think you need to, when putting a new piston, the "scotchbrite method is usually used. do a search, it's been discussed many times.

Pics? host them in the gallery or photobucket. right clic on the pic, properties, copy the address. paste, highlight and clic img
Done.

Unless you send it off to a professional engine builder to modify with specific directions (meaning you know exactly what you want), leave the cylinder alone unless the plating is flaking off or something. Otherwise, with a good cylinder you can touch up the cylinder with a Scotchbrite pad (go easy) just to break up glazing . . . nothing else is needed, I wouldn't hone anything.

More importantly, it sounds like you have the stock piston - replace it even if it looks clean.

Using a service manual (the online version is pretty good), remove the KIPS assy for cleaning.

Keep asking questions and you'll keep learning

I have a drill mount cylinder hone which will give me the nice crosshatch that is (I believe) the best surface to break a new piston in on.

Still not clear on whether or not to bore up. This would be primarily for a bit of extra juice, not to straighten out any scores or imperfections.

is it a ball hone?

C:UsersforrestrohdePictures2008-04-20
C:UsersforrestrohdePictures2008-04-20
C:UsersforrestrohdePictures2008-04-20
C:UsersforrestrohdePictures2008-04-20

yeah, that didn't work

dude, if you want your balls honed you're asking the wrong cat.

however, if you can teach me how to upload my pictures, we might could work out a trade.

this is a ball hone dude

dude, if you want your balls honed you're asking the wrong cat.

however, if you can teach me how to upload my pictures, we might could work out a trade.

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5637

NO trade necessary

I always wondered where the name "wibbens" came from . . .

you should see a doctor about that. It looks itchy.

dude, yoiu just had me totally dorking out on photobucket for way too long. Additionally, now I want a purple fuel tank.

just in case y'all didn't know what this looks like when it's way ahead of you:

and what it looks like from the other side when it's way ahead of you:[/img]

and is this a stock piston?

and is this an indication of how little time this bike has on it?[/img]

Cheers to ball hones!
To bore or not to bore?

Yes, that is the stock piston - don't put it back in there. Time for a Wiseco.

The buildup on the crown is an indication of rich jetting IMO.

The bore of your cylinder has an "electrofusion" coating; hone it and risk damage, you just don't need to do that.

It's not the kind of cylinder that you remove some material and move up to the next piston size.

kicknrocks wrote:I always wondered where the name "wibbens" came from . . .

you should see a doctor about that. It looks itchy.

dude, if you want your balls honed you're asking the wrong cat

I feel unsafe.

Funny, I was just getting creeped out by your avatar.

Firefighter humor isn't well received most places.

Truce.

The price difference is negligible

Actually, the price difference is vast. You don't need to do anything to the cylinder except go over it with some scotch-brite. Then add new wiseco piston. To "Bore up" will entail machining out the plating, and then it will need re-plated ($$$). Ron will have your head and carb back beofre you get your wiseco.

Why it's an OEM piston: Besides the fact that it looks like a Pro-X..it's got an 'A' stamped on it. Pro-X is the only piston that comes in 'sizes' grouped by alpha designations. Your head and cylinder will have similar markings. Diff 'tween alphas is .01mm...less than 1/2 of one thousandth of an inch.



Dude!...Pro-lites (Wiseco) are NOT grouped that way. You get a 69mm piston..period. Wiseco's DO come in overbore sizes. Do not confuse that with Pro-X alpha groupings. .5mm ain't the same as .01mm. The former (in overbore sizes) will require boring and replating (as stated..vast $$), the latter don't.

Get rid of the Pro-X.


BTW...'overbores' in 220's generally go to 240. The 200 goes to 225. From EG's shop anyway.

the 69 mm wiseco is on the way, and my carb and head shipped out today. Scotchbrite it is. That ball hone still freaks me out.

Picked up a factory manual on ebay for 15 bucks.

Anything scary lurking in the KIPS assembly? everything I've seen so far looks pretty straightforward, but I haven't fully disassembled it yet.

I really appreciate that they mark the splines for realignment.

Headed out of town for a week, so there should be all sorts of goodies here for me when I return. Stoked!

I'm certain the manual will outline this for me, but what kind of gasket gook do I want on the bottom of the jug? Whatever was on it was silver.

Cheers

kind of gasket gook

NO
Use a new gasket, can get a kit from moose and some other can't recall. they're pretty cheap, cheaper than a total engine
Beside suporting the kips shaft on removal and re assembly, pretty straight forward with the manual.
I broke the last tooth on that when I tried to clean the kips , so watch out. (not a very patient man sumtimes... )

For Mr. Kick N Rocks..

That tooth gets busted when unwrenching the pictured nut..putting pressure on that tooth against the rod...btw.

However scary (or not) the KIPS is, DO check the timing of the subvalves before you put it all together. Look into the exhaust port, manually activate the KIPS, observe everything to be moving correctly.

If you have a calibrated torque elbow, fine. If you don't, either buy (MotionPro has one) or make a wrench that will get the cylinder properly torqued.

the only KIPS cover I haven't pulled off is the one on the front. I'm guessing that there is a flat spot somewhere to support the shaft that runs through the front of the engine (left side pictured above with broken tooth). Broken gear teeth aren't the status quo, are they?

Don't have the manual yet, hence my inquisition.

I did notice a dab of grease inside that silver dollar cap, but the gears on both sides are dry. Should I dab some grease?

I've seen the torque adapter (sort of a double boxed end wrench with a spot for your torque wrench in the middle). I'll check out motionpro also. Definitely not a well calibrated elbow (ping! S*#T)