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I know you can only use them once so I don't want to scew it up.
Also, I remember something about having the "opening" of the ring on top or something, in the manual it states it shouldn't face the opening in the piston...but that's pretty vague
Any preference for that opening? I would guess it should be on top because of the weight wanting to migrate down
thx

wilf

6 or 12 o clock position for the opening. Quadruple check to make sure they are seated in the slot! I sure hope you are using Wiseco clips in...

whatever cames in the kit...WISECO
thx Inda

Are the oem bad or something?

It is really easy once you know the drill and procedure - My thought is many people try to first install the 'closed end' into the wrist pin hole first and end up chasing the circlips around the floor.

Practice once or twice on your old piston with the old circlips.

1. Install the wristpin into the piston so it is within 1/4 inch or so of the circlip groove where you want the circlip installed. (The edge of the wrist pin helps 'flip' the circlip)

2. Face the 'open end' of the circlip in the area you want it installed 6 or 12 o'clock. Angle the circlip (30-45 degrees) into the wrist pin opening and then using the top area of your THUMB - PUSH the open end of the circlip into the opening.

3. After the OPEN end of the circlip has entered the hole - ROTATE your THUMB down pushing the 'closed end' of the circlip towards the hole - KEEPING PRESSURE on the circlip at all times. You should be able to have the circlip now totally within the wrist pin opening and 80 % of the time it will have already 'snapped' home.

4. IF the circlip has not snapped into it's groove - stick an appropiate size finger into the hole (or an small socket) to hold the circlip while using your other hand to slide the wristpin closer to the wristpin. A slight pressure from the wrist pin and/or the socket (or finger) should reward you with a snap of the circlip into the groove.

5. The second circlip is actually easier to install since the wrist pin is located within a few thousands of final resting place of the circlip. It should 'flip' the circlip into an upright position as you push the closed end of the circlip into the wrist pin hole.

6. Always double check to be sure the circlips have seated into their grooves.

Should be NO REASON to use pliers, needle nose, screwdrivers, awls, scribes, or what ever else you may have used, or seen used when installing typical non-tabbed circlips on a motorcycle or snow machine.

After you have successfully performed this operation please give some feedback on this thread and let us know how it went!!

scheckaet wrote:whatever cames in the kit...WISECO
thx Inda

Are the oem bad or something?

Wiseco circlips are made of hardened spring steel... OEM and Pro-X is not and much weaker.

Thanks IC, really good write up, that's really helpfull.
Will practice a couple of time on my old one and let you all know how it went

A few extra minutes to CONFIRM proper seating of the circlip is essential if you want to avoid disaster.

I personally think that once the clips are securely in the groove, not much is going to happen to cause a failure in our relatively low-revving KDX 2smoker.

However, good practices employed here will carry over when you're working on that 15,000,000,000 RPM motor tooo!!!

yeah, make sure the circlip is seated all the way, or else expensive things happen, ask me how i know :(

Yes - always double check the insertion of the clip into the retaining groove prior to buttoning up the engine!! It can get expensive if you don't.

While there is another decent method for installing the clips without too much more effort the above method is pretty fool proof once you have it down. It allows for close orientation of the open end (without having to reposition the clip by sliding it once it is seated) and almost eliminates any possibility of "over compression" the clips no matter what flavor they are. e.g. Wiseco, OEM, Vertex, etc. Also only takes 5-10 seconds to install and check the clip with very little chance of the clip springing out or puncturing you finger/thumb.

The 'open' 'closed' end references are fine..along with the not having to spin the clip via the 'closed' end.

Pro-X clips (OEM Kaw) are not like that. Both ends are open. Once the clip 'snaps' into place, there isn't a way to (easily) spin it anywhere.

I don't know if Wiseco clips have like or unlike ends.




IC's writeup works the same and as well in either case, although thumb flats (punctures) are more likely when using the above pictured circlip style.

DO make sure things don't slip so as to align the open part of the clip with the piston opening. Getting that clip out will make you cuss...and maybe get you into the market for another piston, too!