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Do I need to use any RTV where the pipe goes into the flange (head)?
The instructions are generic, and the pipe has the two O-rings, so I would imagine that the 2 O-rings would seal the connection.
Just wondering if a small bead in the flange would a good idea- none there apparently from the factory.
Thanks!

No my FMF Fatty only has problems where the clamps are to the frame, and very very small probs at that. I don't know if silicone could handle the heat but you could try it

urnuts wrote:Do I need to use any RTV where the pipe goes into the flange (head)?

This is a good thing to add some rtv where the pipe goes into the cylinder but you can install the pipe witout rtv if you want.

I always use high temp sillycone

I add a bead of high temp RTV in between the two orings. It's black and available at probably any auto supply store.

Orange is the color you find over here

BTW...don't expose the tube of orange hi-temp stuff to freezing temps.... that crap will seem to be unaffected, so you're tempted to use it...but, after a really nice installation....it simply refuses to cure, even with the application of heat.

I'm sure you know how I know all-about-that!

I have the RTV on hand- I like the idea of just a bit between the O-Rings.
Thanks, again.

It seals OK without RTV. I have never experience any leak on a un-bended, un-crashed pipe.

Some may be orange. I've always used black. It's so slimming, yanno.

IMO and all...there are several reasons to use it..and no reason to not use it, seems to me.

Re: 'I have never experience any leak on a un-bended, un-crashed pipe.'

Sounds good..and that state exists for a quite short period of time. Yeah...sounds like a personal problem, 'eh?

I've had bad get-offs that were slight in nature..no dings, bends, crunches that I could see...but the pipe joint did leak immediately following.

And there have been a 'few' other events that were not so minor...and they resulted in leaks, too! Isn't that odd?

The use of a sealing agent gives you a better chance of NOT having a leak than does a put-together with NO goop!



FWIW, I put a nice-sized bead on the leading edge of the pipe flange. That bead does get smushed past/between the rings, but I prefer to have the joint as close to the entry point as possible.

DO clean the surfaces first. It won't do no good if the surfaces are slimey with spoo.

Of course...dont start the bike right after you put it back together, either! Good chance of just blowing the goop out if it's not cured.

Sure would be nice to have the O-rings on the INside of the pipe flange..like Yammies.

Agreed. Why not- can't hurt. Famous last words on my part....
The black RTV is just what I used.
Of course, most of it ended up on one of the frame tubes- hard to get that in there.
And speaking of pains in the a**, what's up with the seat? I had the hardest time getting in on the screw, as well as getting the plastic lip under the tank (sort of), and then being able to slide it up enough to make the rear tabs line up. Jeez.
I know, I'm just a whiney little bitch today.

Yeah, that stuff likes to stick everywhere, frame tubes and all.

You'll get used to how the seat goes on and eventually wonder why it ever seemed like a problem

Dear WLBT:

Something to think of next time.....

Before you goop the headpipe, test fit the pipe. Get an idea where you turn/twist what when to line up the mounts and stuff.

It's poopy to finesse the thing in there all nicely gooped, then find you missed the lower mount (and your pipe's tweaked to the point you can't put it on AFTER the pipe is in).

..not that I'd know anything about that. I read it somewhere...........



The KDX seat is a snap. If yours isn't right, it's cuz something is wrong with...something. The most likely problem is the airbox cover not being properly seated on the airbox.

When placing the seat, lift up on the tail while pushing down on the saddle to catch the screw (talking about the mount on the fuel tank).

Lots'a folks seem to like breaking/crossthreading/stripping those seat bolts. Some the first couple times they have the seat off. Mine are good after about eight years. Treat'm nice..don't force'm..and they'll work AND last just fine.

Good info!
I must have read that somewhere, as well.......

Thanks!