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I am looking to put a bike together that will conquer the tough Oregon terrain. It has to be light because of the tight technical stuff, have low end to chug up nasty, slick, steep, rooty, rocky hills, and be easy to start if you stall or tip over (never personally has happened to me ). I would like a bike that can handle the nasty stuff, putt with the kids, and take me through a couple of harescrambles and GP's.

My thought is a used KDX220 which you can pick up a nice one around here for around 2k. 1st make sure the suspension is set up for weight/ability $200-$300 (if you stay with stock forks). Next pipe $230. 3rd is RB carb mod $200. Then either a autoclutch and you would have to be done, or go with a Flywheel weight $100, trials tire $100, reeds $125, and assorted bike protection.

I think you would have a pretty nice bike and with an autoclutch or FWW you could get through the tuff stuff and conquer the hills with ease.

Any thoughts? Anyone have a similar setup?

Yes... a KDX is a wonderful choice. Opt for some KX forks from the get go.... don't bother revalving stock KDX forks... add a Scotts stabilizer in there too.

Don't overlook the 200, it'll do it too!

I have under $3,000 in mine http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0858#10858

I weigh around 270 nekkid and my lil 200 takes me just about anywhere I want to go around here (S.W. Oregon)

Just me, but if I started from scratch I'd go in this order:
KDX220
Open airbox, Jetting
Guards and barkbusters
KX forks
Revalve rear
RB head

Phase two might be pipe and RB carb. I have found there is a lot more room for performance improvement in the chassis than the motor.

Starting with the best condition used bike, of course.

There is always about a 1/2 dozen KDXs for sale on Craigslist at least up here in Seattle area. Most of which allready have modifiations i.e. pipe, bark busters. I would go with the KX fork swap and steering stabilizer, RB head (if it is a 220), RB carb mod, Boyesen reeds. If your tryin to stay under $3K an auto clutch might put you over that. Guess it all depends on the going in price of the bike???

Putting on USD forks was my first priority - the stock forks are the only major drawback of this machine, IMO. I too had modified stock forks, i.e., gold valves, springs, etc... and they still stunk.

I would like to start with a 220 because of the low end. If I could find one with pipe/silencer, barkbusters, etc. already on it for around 2k, that would be a nice start. With airbox lid removed, reeds, carb and head mod, I would be around $2300. I want a autoclutch becuase of the steep terrain I like to ride $500. I had a '92 KDX200 and didnt mind the conventional forks after stiffer springs, so I would stick with the forks and add a new stiffer rear spring $200. So, that is around the 3k mark. If I could find a decent KDX for around $1500 then I would add a WER and now you've got a 3k bike that will tackle anything. BTW a trials tire for $100 would be added somewhere in the mix.

Whats with the trials tire?

That'd be about worthless down here

Yeah, I have not seen very many used here lately

You'd be surprised how well they work in the slick and slimy. After my current rear tire wears out i'm going to switch to a trials tire. They hook up good and are real low impact vs knobbies as far as tearing up trail. Good things IMHO.

I doubt they'd work at Quartz Creek, unless it was dry

Is the low end difference that great between a 200 and 220? Would a 200 with pipe, carb mod, opened air box, and reeds be able to make use of an autoclutch? With a FWW and trials tire It seems it would be hard to find anything a modded KDX 200 couldn't tackle.

A 200 is just as capable... especially after the 220 has the carb mod. The only difference between the two is the size of the carb... and a slight difference in porting.

I would take the 200 over the 220 any day....

mE TOO

bUT THEN AGAIN i'D TAKE AN "e" SERIES OVER AN "h"

What is the advantage of the E series? I know some think they have more umphh and I have heard the forks are better. Are these rumors true?

if you'd seen the places mine has taken my fat a$$ up you'd understand a lil better

Not many places Carvr can go that I can't follow, and I out weigh him by almost 100lbs

Comments (.02 worth)- For tight technical riding steering stablizer seems like a waste of money to me. Getting rid of the underhang on the forks would be the primary performance advantage with the USD fork IMO for tight technical trails. I've only rode a 220 once but my thought is similar to Vince's - 200 or 220 differences likely not very much performance wise after standard mods have been performed. (i.e. buy what you get the better deal on). Trial tires do work better than many realize for many situations especially slow technical trails with wet rocks, roots, stream crossings - if the mud is the sticky variety they are worest than a good knobby.

Don't want to be a pooper, but you can pick up an 04 KTM 200 for less than three and not have to do any modifications and will have a lighter, stronger, faster bike.

I have a fondness for my old KDX, but I'll never go back.

Oh God, how dare you mention such an idea around here?!

I actually just sold my KTM200exc a couple of weeks ago. Here's the thing with the KTM, it does not have the chug factor the KDX does. I re-jetted, adjusted the power valve, re-geared, and even put a FWW on the KTM, and it still doesn't have the ability to chug at low speeds like the KDX does. The rest of the bike was very nice though. I need to be able to putt behind my kids with a 2 stroke and the KDX seems like the only bike that can handle the dad duties and still do well in more aggressive riding situations. Most of the riding I do is slow and technical and the KDX seems like it was custom made for this and yet it still has plenty when you want to open it up a little bit.

Sounds like a 200 vs. 220 when modded are fairly equal and for slow technical stuff the steering stabilizer and USD's aren't really necessary.