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I recall reading somewhere(not sure if it was here or not) that someone made their clutch easier to pull be modifying/ extending the fulcrum on the clutch actuating rod. Has anyone tried this? if so, how much did you extend it? Extending the lever part of the rod would make it easier to pull but it would require more throw to get it to disengage. I would like to hear from someone that it works before I go cutting and welding on one of mine.
I'm not ready for the auto clutch but it would be nice to make it a little easier. I have a Moose easy-pull gadget but I cant tell much of a difference with it.

Start with dumbells at about 15# work your way up to 50# curl, curl , curl.... and don't look back!

but that would give me some definition on my "girly 220 arms."

If anything, hand & forearm strength would make your clutch easier to pull. Good thing I'm left-handed and get plenty of practice

I'm a lefty also....but I need to use both.

Uh...I'm a lefty too! I think Ski is and proly more on here....


When I curl... I start with my hand partially open and pointing at the ground so I get my hand, forearms and biceps...

a wrist curl

Lefty here!! Yea!! No problems with the clutch, I don't have one!! Ha!!

lefty here the world is backwards not us lefties

Maybe we are all linked and that is why we ride KDXs? Que the psycic music.

Hey Vince,
why not do a poll of who is Left and who is Wrong handed.

Good idea!

They say that left handed people are above average intelligence.
We have to be in order to survive in a right handed world.

I work with right handed tools all the time with no problems.

could you imagine what would happen if all the right handed carpenters woke up one day and had to do their jobs using circular saws made for left handed people.

be lots of short fingered right handed carpenters out there.

how bout goin hydraulic?

It's been done here. I didn't search for it..and don't recall who for sure.

You don't get something for nothing. The longer the arm, the less clutch pack release.

Given the same puller and all.....

Check a couple other things. How much slop is in the clutch cover hole? ANY movement there means less movement to the actuator. Have it bushed if it's sloppy.

Check your lever for wear..at the hinge and the cable slug.

What's the shim setup on your clutch pack? Check to be sure the arm is installed properly. It should move through a 90º line during actuation. As the clutch pack wears, more of a shim may be required to get that measurement.


Replace your clutch cable. Consider one'a those hot-rod longitudinally wrapped jobs (if they make one for the KDX).

Not all levers have the same pull...OR the same cable movement.

If the internet wasn't such a PIG on Sunday night...I'd look at RockyMtn to see if they sell such a setup. Probably. I don't recall the name of the good one. Haven't seen it in a few years.

DONE IT! I AM HYDRAULIC!!!
Works great no fade, one finger pull, same action every time and it feathers nice. It took one ride on my Buds KTM and I had it on order, best thing is it never changes. Half the clutch fade I had was cable related. When the going gets tight and technical you never think about your finger or arm pump. Only thing that can beat it is auto clutch. Magura

I just don't get it... I never have any problems.

Me neither.

Glad you're happy with it, though!!

I have some carpel tunnel issues in my left hand. Western medicine was very excited and anxious to cut on me when I was diagnosed VIA nerve induction test. I told them to get lost. Went to a homeopathic doctor and was advised to take some supplements.
Condition has gotten much better. Seems to be going away. I did 25 miles of some extremely technical stuff today and had no problems at all.
Rain cut our ride short.

Even though my KTM has a hydraulic clutch I really don't see any real advantages with it - yes there is no on the fly cable adjustments while riding - but other than that there is more maintenance. I change my hydraulic clutch fluid twice a season which takes 10-15 minutes if everything goes well and 30-45 minutes if there is an air pocket somewhere. Periodically the slave cylinder o-ring needs to be replaced. I do worry a little more about crashes pulling the clutch line loose or breaking the master cylinder.

With a cable operated clutch I would hook up the cable luber and flush the cable with silicone maybe twice a season. (3-5 minutes) A clutch lever with a large on the fly cable adjuster was just second nature to me on my previous KTM. The KDX could certainly have a on-the-fly cable adjuster added if you find yourself needing to adjust cable slack repetitively on trail rides. Cables are also cheap to replace and check the wear of - while the opposite is true for the hydraulic system.