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I was 10 miles from camp. Lost all compression. Could not kickstart the bike. I compressioned started the bike down a long hill and kept it going till it got me back to camp.

Tear down revealed the tip of one circlip had broken off, rattled around on top of the piston until it passed between the piston and cylinder doing heavy damage. When I install circlips I always rotate the circlip so the ends are trapped by the circlip groove. I just figure I went to long on the service interval for changing out my piston and the weakest link gave out. 2.5 seasons on this top end. Who knows but its going to cost me$$$.

At this point I have 3 options.

Buy a new cylinder and all the new hardware to outfit it. $600 aprox.

Sleeve the old cylinder. Chromemoly sleeve from LA Sleeve. Any issues with heat transfer? My bike has never overheated and I dont want to go down that road. But with a sleeved cylinder it can be over bored up to 5 times. $450 aprox

Or I can lay my hands on a 05 KDX 220 cylinder & head off ebay right now. Anyone ever do this before? Would the motor be the same but better or would it be a strange freak of nature and would give me fits?

220 cyl & head with the KDX RB carb with the KDX 200 FMF woods pipe.
Is this even a consideration?

You could do that, you'll need a Wiseco piston and rings. You might not like it though. The 220 is very meek compared to the 200. The port timing is designed to provide lots of low-end grunt. Very underwhelming hit when the KIPS opens.

220 RB is GR8T. Mine DOES NOT have an underwhelming hit. It launches

If the cylinder is toast why not send it out to bored out to a 225?

Keep what you have!!

Send it out to any of the bigger name plating shops and have the damage welded up. They will rebore it and then replate the cylinder. Costs should not run you more than 250-300 for the cylinder work.

Colorado Mike wrote:You could do that, you'll need a Wiseco piston and rings. You might not like it though. The 220 is very meek compared to the 200. The port timing is designed to provide lots of low-end grunt. Very underwhelming hit when the KIPS opens.

NOT!!

I've had both bikes (both modified too) at the same time. I preferred the 220. The 220 I have right now is in a different league powerwise than any 200 I've owned, and I've owned many, both stock and modified...
Lot's of times "hit" just means your jetting is off....

Sorry bout the hijack! - But like others have said, I'd just repair the cylinder for the best cost option.

If you go with a 220:

I own a modified 220, have ridden a 200, and would concur with those that comment on the 220 NOT being underwhelming when compared to the 200 . . .

A stock 220 is quite mellow . . . maybe that's what Colorado Mike is referring to.

One last thing: consider the Gnarly "rev" pipe over the "woods" pipe.

IdahoCharley wrote:Keep what you have!!

Send it out to any of the bigger name plating shops and have the damage welded up. They will rebore it and then replate the cylinder. Costs should not run you more than 250-300 for the cylinder work.

This sounds like the best option in my opinion. Good luck.

How much is that 220 cylinder on EBAY????

IdahoCharley wrote:Keep what you have!!

My vote.

Buy the piston of your favorite flavor, send it with the cylinder to Langcourt, get it done.

Bore/replate to size will run you around $350.

I got a used cylinder from Fredette for $350 a couple of years back. That was with KIPS.


About the problem....this was not a used clip?


Too little too late, but place your clips where you want them in the first place, don't move them after the initial 'snap'. The less manipulation the better.

imo and all that.......

Carver....I NEVER use a used anything on my top end. It has been 2.5 seasons since the last piston. I should have replaced it last winter like I had planned and I wouldn't be having this discussion. Up till now the bike has been bulletproof. Never had any problems. I veiw this circlip issue as a fluke metallurgical failure.
I will probably buy a brand new cylinder from Ron Ayers. $374.00.
With new piston and some new gaskets, hardware & seals to outfit the cylinder plus sending my one slightly pitted head over to REB for repair I will get it fixed for around $550.

Is there any rule about where the circlip gap should be in relation to the installation slot on the piston?

"Is there any rule about where the circlip gap should be in relation to the installation slot on the piston?"

Clip opening should be opposite the indentation (GAP) where it is installed on the piston

gap at 6 or 12 O' clock

Re: 'I NEVER use a used anything on my top end.'

Don't take it personally! No intent to impugn.


I've not used a Wiseco, but my understanding is their clips are notably stronger than the OEM clips.

..not that 'stronger' necessarily means they are better suited for the application..

Yep. 6 or 12 in the o'clock.

Thanks for fixin' that avatar GH!

Whattttttt. Ya did'nt like the RED X

Yep...thats what is in the bike, a Wiesco piston kit.
Gap at about 7 oclock

Just an FYI the motors are the same for the 200 and 220. They interchange barrel/piston/head as an assembly just fine. Meaning everything will bolt right up and the stroke is the same.

You have options any ways now. Make a decision and get-er-done!!

A couple of years ago I was confronted with the same issue. I ended up buying new cylinder from MAC (http://www.Midwest Action Cycle) and heard that Eric Gorr might be willing to buy old cylinder. I called him and he needed some cylinders at that time so we traded cylinder for cash. It wasn't a ton of $, but it helped offset the cost of the new cylinder. Good Luck!