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I tried this post in the RB Mod section but I'm hoping for an idea tonight so I can finish this up tomorrow and ship Friday . . . and I did some searching: rosin, solder, etc - no luck.

what size to use for the squish-band measurement for Ron Black's work? The biggest I could find at Radio Shack was .062"

I'm way off because tonight I even tried to flatten the ends of the solder such that when the solder was resting on the piston top, the solder was "thicker" perpendicular to the piston surface.

Also, where to get the solder? I know rosin-core is the type to use . . .

I've got the 220 of course, but I'm take some feedback from you "two-hunny" owners if you have a suggestion.

I've sent an email to Ron but his shop is closed so he might be unavailable.

The Manual does not have a spec for the squish band or head/piston clearance.

I have the Mod but have not measured it. If you must have it for some reason, I'm sure Ron will answer you...

The exact thickness doesn't matter but .062 inch will not do much good. Go to Home Depot or Lowes or Ace Hardware and buy some rosin core solder for soldering copper tubing. Its about 3mm or .125 inch thick and will work fine. It is made for use with a handheld propane torch.

FWIW - You are attempting to buy solder for soldering iron use for electronics and this type will all be too thin: It will not result in a squished end which is uniform. I suspect Ron will be measuring each end with calipers and then averaging the two to determine your existing squish. The end of the solder when squished will be around 3/16 inch wide giving a good idea of the true squish.

IdahoCharley wrote:The exact thickness doesn't matter but .062 inch will not do much good. Go to Home Depot or Lowes or Ace Hardware and buy some rosin core solder for soldering copper tubing. Its about 3mm or .125 inch thick and will work fine.

Ha! Exactly what I'm looking for.

When I picked up the solder that's way too small I was thinking that the clearances were much tighter . . .

Thanks Dr. Idaho!

Your welcome - neat icon.

And there's some reasoning to do this?

Mr. Wibbens wrote:And there's some reasoning to do this?

Reasoning to do what - measure the "squish"? I thought Ron needed to know the current clearance betwixt the head and the piston at top dead center (AKA the "squish band"). Ron takes this information along with the compression readings we provide to do his work.

Some instructions I found on the internet were to take a piece of rosin-core solder and place it over the top surface of the piston. You put your head back on (uh . . . cylinder lid), torque w/ gasket on, then by hand turn your magneto through TDC. The deformations at the end of the solder provide an easy way to measure your squish clearance.

Maybe I didn't have to do this?

I certainly didn't have to do all that. Luckily because I would have needed to get the head shipped from USA to Australia, measure it, then ship it back to Ron, Ron mod the head and then return it to me.

me either, I had the mod before it became one of the "To do" mods

Yeah, Ron emailed me back - I didn't have to fool with measuring the squish band (he already knows what it should be). I had read one of Ron's writeups on the net where he provided directions for measuring - a Gas Gas site I believe - intended for bikes with which he is unfamiliar most likely. I put that together with the comments on this site about the 220 head being "inconsistent" and reasoned that I needed to smash some solder . . .

at least I didn't screw something up this time!!

Whew!! I'm glad this turned out as it did. I was on my way to thinking I'd done it all wrong the last 3-4 times just letting Ron do what he does best all by hisself!!

Sorry to stir up the confusion . . . again . . .

BUT ANYWAY - I'll have the carb & head off my "too-twinny" on it's way to you West-Coasties part of the world for some world-class machining!!

I'm really looking forward to this . . . and getting the USD forks together as well.

You won't know your bike once all thats done, thats for damn sure.

FWIW - It is not a bad thing to know how to do.

Actual squish measurements give a more exact measurement to the process and take into account cumlative differences between various tolerences in the manufacturing processes. Engine case (base of cylinder) to centerline of crankshalf, crankshaft throw tolerances , centerline to centerline bearing distance differences in lenght of rod, piston crown to centerline of small end bearing, overal cylinder height and machined head tolerances, and thickness of the base and head gaskets can all add up (instead of canceling out) and is likely one reason some bikes run better than others. Normally a manufacturing process makes engineering allowances for these variations and error on the conservative side of effeciency and performance.

..hence the term 'blueprint', I think?

Ron has said the 220 heads in particular (saying NOT so as much of the 200) vary a lot.

Surely all of that stuff (and a good bit more) 'fit' into proper engine assy or design.

When I last put together my Duster 340 I did some looking around before I found a timing set that had a .004" shorter centerline that fit my particular put-together. What a treat! The 'regular' timing set slop was very distasteful to me. The 'shorter' set? Absolutely perfect!!

Why run a timing key when you can get a timing set that fits?

Why care? Ignition timing, mostly. Obviously cam timing, too (which indeed was spot on said the degree wheel..hardly EVER is). Take a look at spark jitter on a V8 with the distributor on the back of the motor..and you will be wishing you had squeezed out every bit of slop possible GETTING to that distributor drive!

Anywhoo....I'm sure you'll love it when it comes back!!

What are you running for reeds?

RE: running for reeds - the 607s. I was impressed on how it changed low end throttle response. And I got a little more of that sweet "hit" around midrange (where probably has more to do my jetting and the CEL).

This stuff is very exciting . . . 'didn't imagine I'd be so captivated.

Jeb - you really noticed an improvement with the 607's? I need to get a pair, they're so cheap.

Do you still wanna send the needles to me?

Yes, 607's will really wake 'er up, as will the VFII or III (I know I know, I'm not Jeb)

2001kdx wrote:Jeb - you really noticed an improvement with the 607's? I need to get a pair, they're so cheap.

Do you still wanna send the needles to me?

I think all of the comments I've read concerning the 607s are positive - they're a worthwhile investment . . .

Once I'm RB'd a different kind of needle works better per kdxrider - I believe it's the CEK/DEK vs. the CEL/DEL needles that I have - so, yes, I'll send the needles to ya'