KDXRIDER.NET

I have been pondering this idea mainly because I like to keep things clean. There are some very good carbon/sludge/deposit type cleaners for automotive use that would work well on this and keep the movement clean and operational. Many of the KIPS components are accessible by removing covers. Does using a certain pre-mix keep the KIPS clean? Any thoughts on this?

Well... I use the Mobil 1 full synthetic and it keeps the power valves the cleanest I've ever seen 'em. I think any good quality synthetic should keep 'em pretty darn clean.
With the Mobil 1, you better have a dedicated gas can to use for your premix... 'cause it's colorless!

inda
what's the recommended mix on the mobil1? 50:1?
also are you using the recommended mix or something like 40:1 or 32:1?

40:1 works well. 50:1 scares me a little....especially when it's colder out. I've always mixed 40:1 without any problems.

I think its called Yamaha Combustion Chamber Cleaner

cuts thru spooge like nuttin you ever saw

Wibby, have you used this product or seen its results? Inda, how clean is your KIPS when you tear it down? When I bought my 220 in October the dealer/mech told me that Castrol TTS would keep the exhaust and KIPS very clean. Another question that will fit in here is how long do you go before replacing rings? If the KIPS stays clean 'nuff between ring sets then cleaning them this way wouldn't matter. All the nasty KIPS are probably the result of years of no maint. So maybe this thread could be put in the bucket with "Dude, how fast is the KDX, or how fer can I jump the KDX"?

With proper maintenance, using good quality synthetic oil, it doesn't get that bad at all if your jetted right. Spooge turns into gum which turns into nasty burnt on deposits. Once a year cleaning should be sufficient. Could proly go two years without an issue. If that Castrol TTS is synthetic.... then I'm sure it's pretty good oil but I have no experience with it. In the day.... a good bean oil is all we would run.... I still love the smell of that stuff but it's no good for your power valves!

Rings? Depends on your compression. If you lose 10lbs. of compression over a months time... better change 'em!

I had been away from 2-smokers since the late 70's. I didn't know that there were exhaust valves on 2-strokes. I used peanut oil back then. And back then I put new rings on my 74 Elsinore about every 10 hours or 3 races. TTS is fully synthetic. Bubba uses it! And if it's good 'nuff fer Bubba...maybe if I put 259 on my number plates I will be able to do 105' triples.

bradf wrote:Wibby, have you used this product or seen its results?

I'm on my 4th can of the stuff, best thing I've found for cleaning spooge, it just melts away

Mechanic I buy it from says it works pretty good just spraying it into the carb with the motor running

I have found "Subaru Upper Engine and combustion chamber cleaner" is just like Wib says, "It just melts away". Im guessing they would be a very similar product. Hey Wib does your stuff STINK like cat p!ss (ammonia)? The stuff I use actually is supposed to be sprayed into the engine whilst its running also (so the can says anyway). I sprayed it on and simply wiped the gunk off. That was after scraping all the spooge out from everywhere first. I run Motul 800 and hopefully soon I can ride it enough to see how it gums up the power valves.

Next time I have some cat piss around to compare it too I'll let you know!

Before people think I'm any stranger than previously thought, my fiance owns a pet shop. Have you not smelt ammonia? Its pretty close to that.

I alway just use Brake Cleaner... seems to do the trick!

Oven cleaner also works pretty well on warm metal parts with stuff baked on.

I've also used oven cleaner and it worked pretty well except don't get it on on your hands. I didn't wear gloves when I used it and I thought my skin was melting it left a slimy coating an my hands that only went away after rinsing then off with lemon juice.

I can see it now. With all the suggestions on cleaning the KIPS...someone's going to pick one (like oven cleaner)..take the cover off the front of the cylinder and spray it full-o-stuff!!

Uh...don't forget that there's a piston in there..and it's made of aluminum. Caustic stuff like oven cleaner is going to attack aluminum. It probably best used when the cylinder is off the bike.

If your version of KIPS cleaning involves keeping the cylinder ON the bike..be sure to protect the piston and of course the cylinder.

As far as how long? Truth or dare time, folks. I've never cleaned mine. I check the operation of the drums and valve from time to time, sometimes just by turning the nut under the LH cover. If it's smooth and returns easily all by itself...I figure it's good enough.

If it ain't broke...don't fix it!

Ha!! Your method is like mine for suspension bearings, It works, so I don't mess with it. LOL!!!

Now I know you have taken yours apart, you've sent the cylinder in for plating and porting, so you didn't clean anything then?

I didn't. FRP did.

I didn't take the KIPS out of it. Just sent it in...goo-spooge-and-all. ;)

It wasn't all that bad. Like I said...everything moved like it was 'sposed to!

canyncarvr wrote:I didn't. FRP did.

I didn't take the KIPS out of it. Just sent it in...goo-spooge-and-all. ;)

It wasn't all that bad. Like I said...everything moved like it was 'sposed to!

And so he punished you. (Ah, the REST of the story, as Paul Harvey would say.)

That's funny! Well...it would be IF IT HAD HAPPENED TO SOMEBODY ELSE!!

Hey! I was supposed to send it in that way. I asked before I sent it!