KDXRIDER.NET

whats is or is there any differance or advantage of one over the other?

KX shock...1" longer.

Indawoods wrote:KX shock...1" longer.

stroke or body? any body ever do a swap?

Shaft or stroke.

Indawoods wrote:Shaft or stroke.

so the shaft is longer thus bolting one on you would loose the first inch of working travel of the KX shock. yes or no?

It will raise the bikes rear 1".

If you can get it on.

I went to the local Kawi shop to find out about the front axel for my fork conversion the mechanic asked me what I was doing. I told him he offered to sell me a complete 98 KX with a blown top end and crank for 250.00 , that dumb and dumber had been riding. so with parts and bike I am home changed the spring over to the KX shock and bolted it up it raised the bike 1/2 inch with the sag set . all that was needed was a couple of washers on the top of the mount to the frame to take up slack.
it will be saturday before I get to trail ride but just around the yard it feels better balanced with the KX forks and shock then with KDX shock and Forks .

before you run out and try it give me a week to ride the snot out of mine and see what gives. I am 5'5 1/2 and sit on the bike with my toes on the ground with flip flops on .

Wow, very interesting. Let us know how it rides!

Thats a heck of a deal! I bet you can get that $250 back after parting the bike out as well.

Cool... post a pic!

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Indawoods wrote:Cool... post a pic!

KX shock

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Anyone else have done this ???? I'm very interested by that topic .....
I'm not a big fan of the KDX rear shock ...
So please more info on this
Thanks

1st ride report with KX suspension front and rear with KDX 5.0 spring. first the bike is 1/2 to 1 inch taller for all you insecure riders that like to ride flat footed on the ground. how ever I am 5'5" 160 lb 43 year old and its no big deal.

first time out with the sag set at about 4 1/4 inches the rear shock is about 15 clicks out so not bad adjust ability it takes far more serious hits and launched off some 5' ledges landing easy and controlled the high speed action is great allows for easy log hops, feels nice and plush no kicking or packing it is 40 % improvement in the rear compared to a 7 year old KDX shock . it will be much better after re valving.

CONS: have to use spacers on the top mount , the linkage hits the frame when getting air born because of the added length and stroke.

I think I can cure the top out issue when I re valve the shock.

comparing the stock KX forks and The stock KX shock for bolt on woods riding the shock wins. I like my action plush in the woods and well the forks got revalved as soon as I got home after Saturdays ride.

How does the KX shock differ and in what ways that cannot be resolved by proper springing/valving? They are both KYB units?

Is there more rod travel per given input on the KX than the KDX? That's determined by linkage, not shock.

Did you change the unitrack knuckle, too? I'd be surprised if that bolted up.

I'd like to know more about this also....
I've got a '94 KX with the forks off my '02 KDX on it, and the '02 KDX with the KX forks on it.
If there is an advantage to putting the KX shock on my KDX I'd love to do it. I know there would be an advantage to putting the KDX shock on the KX. The KX (which I only use for trail building work, anyway) as presenly set up is a bit low in the front and hard in the rear.
The KDX could always use a better shock, if a shock off of a '94 KX really would be a "better shock"

Karl P

By the way, all the Unitrack linkages look like they could be swapped and switched with minimal trouble between the KX and KDX; The frame spacing and swingarm spacing and bolt diameters are all common. I don't know what all one would end up with, and would rather ride, so I never tried swapping them around.

Karl

Karl I looked at that but the darn KX linkage was trashed so I didnt feel like giving it a try. so I figure I would space up the bumper in side the shock when I tear it down for Revalve.

I have a 2002 RM125 Showa shock handy. I think it's tinker time!

How does the KX shock differ and in what ways that cannot be resolved by proper springing/valving? They are both KYB units?

I would say a properly valved KDX shock would be the same or better than the stock KX shock. the KX shock is larger in all aspects larger body longer shaft, larger blatter.

Is there more rod travel per given input on the KX than the KDX? That's determined by linkage, not shock.

with both shocks off side by side there was more rod travel on the KX then on
the KDX.

Did you change the unitrack knuckle, too? I'd be surprised if that bolted up.

I would of done so if the linkage was in usable shape off the KX frame.

this was done out of a Well I wonder? than any thing else and it worked with great results. the KX forks don't work perfect with out a little spacer here and shim there. The KX shock is the same just better stock valving.

of course this is comparing to the shock of my bike and I try to make a rule of not riding other peoples bikes. but I guess I should to see how it feels in comparison.