KDXRIDER.NET

I have a line on a rather pleasant fellow who bought is girlfriend a new CRF250, and so, he is now considering parting out her "old" KX125.

Anything I should be aware of (out of the ordinary) for putting the '04KX 125 parts on my '03 KDX220?

For one example, since I am 200 pounds (not including gear). Some have said I need stiffer springs in the 125. But others say that the 125 springs are stouter than the stock KDX springs. Which springs (from Kaw), and can I also use CR400 springs, possibly? My KDX is currently sprung for someone 40+ pounds lighter than me (the former owner). I ride mostly 1-track with some 2-track and jeep trails thrown in. No MX.

What would be a fair price for his components (as a whole and/or parted out should he decide to go that way)?

Last question, I'm concerned that the KX-fork mod will make my front end lift up (loop) when I'm hill climbing. My KDX already tends to do that (partly my bad technique), and the forks are about 1/2 inch up from the clamps.

Thanks for the advice and making me spend more money !! :)

Rick

AZRickD wrote: Last question, I'm concerned that the KX-fork mod will make my front end lift up (loop) when I'm hill climbing. My KDX already tends to do that (partly my bad technique), and the forks are about 1/2 inch up from the clamps.
Rick

Weight forward...carry momentum into, up and over the hill...and use that thing on the left side of the handle bars. It's all technique.

I think a fair price would be $350 with the wheel. Should offer $250 and go from there since it is so new.

Those forks should have .41 or .42 springs in them and they are just about right for your weight... that's where I am at and have a 03 KX 125 front end on.

You raise the fork in the trees and it is easy to get it balanced and shouldn't make a difference on looping it.

...and use that thing on the left side of the handle bars.

My airsickness bag?

I'm gettin' pretty psyched about this mod. Any issue with re-valving them? MX vs 1-track, for example?

Thanks,

Rick

Mine are still valved stock. Works gooooood....

Cool, then. I don't know if this particular guy is going to come through with the bike, but he's an eBayer so he has other parts, and there are plenty of others that come and go on a weekly basis.

I can see why lot's of folks would want the KX250 tubes if they are big or do MX, but I'm going to stick to the 125 forks for the rocky trails here. I don't know how long it will take for me to acquire the hardware, but I'm not in a horribly big hurry yet. I still have to find a machine shop (gotta be tons of them near my house).

From what I'm learning from the other posts, no knurling will be required and I'll just have to do shim stock or machine a shim for the top.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks,

Rick

Alrightie. He's got the bike in his shop ready to part it out (that poor bike). Of course, using a generic KX 125 to create KDXX is a worthy cause.

Anymore comments on what this is worth in an eBay realm? Yes, it's an '04, and I'll bet it's been used fairly well, and also taken care of. I'm thinking something just under $400 including shipping.

Any other thoughts?

Rick

Under $400 shipped to your door and including the wheel, axle, forks and triple trees would be a pretty good deal. See if you can get him to throw in the brake caliper, hose and MC as well. Don't forget to budget for a fork rebuild kit as well. Pivot works makes a nice set for around $60 + $15 for fork oil and you should be good to go.

He's talking something around $400, not including shipping.

He is including the entire front end. Fork, clamps, wheel, axle, brake line, caliper, master cylinder, rotor (and maybe a new tire). Not sure on all of that.

Rick

IMO $400 for the whole front end is a very good deal on that new of a bike provided the bike has not been hammered.

I spent $175 on CR forks, $35 on KX TT, $175 on CR wheel and tire, $35 on CR Master cylinder/caliper, $35 on front CR fork slider protectors, and $18 on CR wheel spacers and another $82 for (split bushings and spacer) and pressing out of the stems.

All you would really need is a stem change and a specer for the upper TT.

Part out your old stuff should net you ~$200-250 provided it is in good shape.

Poopie.

I've just been "told" that I need four new tires ($$$). This project might have to wait.

I suppose I could just re-spring with .41 springs and make due for a few months. :(

Tweak the valve stack?

Rick

I'm back in the game. :)

Also, I spoke with a neighbor tonite who is a dirtbiker and kwadder who works at a business that has a full-time machine shop. He said he'd talk to the machinist to see how he'd attack the problem of the KDX stem in the KX upper.

I mentioned that one fellow here had a bead of weld placed around the stem and then had the stem turned to fit. He said that would work but he'd worry about the heat-treatment of that part.

He said that (without looking at the KDX, of course) that instead of fabbing the shim or welding the bead around the stem, he's weld in a double-reverse conical piece of metal and then bore out the newly-welded piece to fit. The conical shape would allow him to weld on both sides and have the welds flow into each other. I don't know how important that is, but what the hey.

We'll see.

Rick

I have another line on a 1999 KX 125 (unknown condition, just yet).

Any issues with the 1999 KX 125 as pertains to the KDX-to-KX mod?

Thanks,

Rick

Nope... should work fine!

Dandy.

I recall seeing pictures of old KX upper triple trees that looked like they had solid bar clamps.

Is that the case? If so, what years? That would be a problem for someone with fat bars and appreciated reduced vibration.

Rick

my bars are pro-taper fat bars mounted solidly to Scott's upper triple clamps. I don't notice any bothersome vibration.

AZRickD wrote:Dandy.

I recall seeing pictures of old KX upper triple trees that looked like they had solid bar clamps.

Is that the case? If so, what years? That would be a problem for someone with fat bars and appreciated reduced vibration.

Rick

the KX125 are the ones dont know what year but thats wat your looking at.

The seller confirms that they are solid-mounts. :(

Are the bar clamps thick enough that I can get them machined to an inch-and-an-eigth to fit my fatty bars?

I suppose I can get them cut off and have the proper holes drilled in to accept my conical KDX mounts.

Any other ideas?

What year KX 125 will allow a direct bolt-on of my clamps?

Rick

Or... just get the big bar adaptors! DONE!

What are the big bar adaptors? If it's what I think it is, I already have them on the KDX.

When the seller said that the clamps are solid-mounted, did he mean they are part of the cast aluminum upper triple tree or that they are bolted directly and can be removed and swapped out for my KDX clamps?

Thanks,

Rick