KDXRIDER.NET

I got a good deal on a WER off ebay and I ordered up a rebuild kit from FRP, so now I am ready to rebuild and install. The instructions say to use 5w fork oil, but I have also heard that ATF works well. Any preferences?

Also it says to use "seal grease" on the o-rings, any suggestions? Lithium, silicone, waterproof bearing grease?

The mounting kit came with 4 plastic spacers, where do they go, on top the damper? Between the damper and fender?

I used 2 of the spacers so the damper sits level (on top). From what I have read 20w is the ticket, CC should chime in with his experience (hint, hint CC). Thats about all the info I can offer, sorry.

Why rebuild it? Is it broken? If you're thinking the difference in damping left and right you can feel will be resolved, it won't be. Well, doubtful. Wasn't in my case or numerous other cases I'm familiar with.

The higher (numerical) oil weight number, the more effective damping you will get. Choose your poison. It takes a couple minutes to change it if you don't like what you used.

I thought 5W was useless. I've ridden with a Scotts. I know what a damper can do. The WER didn't do it. My riding buddy watching from behind said, 'Your damper isn't doing a damn thing!'

I put in 20W. Fork oil. ATF would probably work, but it's generally considered to be in the 7W range.

At 20W the WER was better. Still nothing like a Scotts-damped bike.

I found a LOT of my impression of the WER was the OEM forks. They flex/tweak so much a damper is not very effective. The FIRST time I had any impression that my WER was doing anything was my first ride with my KX forks. BIG change.

Spacers? You must use spacers when mounting the WER to accommodate the shape of the fender. Other spacers are used in the linkage to make it is 'square' to your frame mounting spot. Mount it with nothing other than 90º angles (or parallels)..no 'slopes' to any rods, plates, etc.

Grease? I don't know. I've never rebuilt mine. I have changed the fluid in it multiple times. There IS grease that is SPECIFICALLY 'seal grease'. I don't know what the base of that grease is. No grease you use is going to stay in place very long, the whole mess being bathed in oil. I don't know why a lithium based grease would not work.

Well for better or worse I used petroleum jelly for assembly lube based on the local mechnic guru at my work, it is used as assembly lube in automatic transmissions on the o-rings I guess.

I rebuilt it because I got it used for $150 and I figured the extra $25 for a rebuild was worth it. It took me 30min to rebuild it, pretty darn simple. I figure a cheap WER is a good stepping stone to the $400 Scotts, I have never ridden with a damper so is all new to me (or my kx forks, so it will be a big change the first time out).

I will try to round up some thicker fork oil to put in it, ATF sounds too thin to me. Thanks for the advice guys!

I have to agree about the fork flex on the oem forks. I am running WER damper and it works perfect until the front wheel hits the ground then it kind of fights against the fork flex so you get the feeling that its not working but it does a little or better than not having one but a lot depends on how you have your oem forks set up. but it really doesn't matter just gas it and point. hell I road with one damper rod disconnected and it didn't slow me down.

Does anyone have a picture of their installation? Mostly of the WER linkage and how it bolts to the damper arm and frame bracket? I am piecing this thing together from used parts and don't have any instructions. From first glance I have to make up 2" of vertical from the bottom of the frame arm to the top of the damper arm, does this sound right? I will have mine installed tonight and will post a pic to see what you guys think. I am using a custom spacer.

Looks like they drilled though the frame, I may end up doing that if my spacer does not work.

I'll get ya some pics Scotty, hang tight.

Well. here is my installation. I made a new linkage shaft with left hand and right hand threads to allow easier length adjustment. I also bought new rod ends from McMaster, with Teflon impregnated carbon fiber races. I used the big hole in the frame for mounting, so I machined a spacer to keep the linkage at 90deg. I may end up drilling a hole in the frame to eliminate the spacer. I also drilled out the shaft and steering arm to accept 1/4-20 hardware with a tight fit instead of the sloppy setup for 6mm.

I am headed to a long poker run in the mountains this weekend so I get to try out the WER and KX forks!

Hope this is of some aid.

Cheers,
Trev...

**EDIT**

DODGAMMIT I'M TOO SLOW. hehe

Thanks for the pics! If I had a welder that is what I would do! I can't wait to try out my bike this weekend.

I won a WER on ebay. I received last night.

There's 4 bolts, 4 spacers and the steering-damper with the attach on the box.

My KDX220R bike steup is a KX125 UFO front fender, KX125 2005 front fork and the WER.

I have questions for you:

1- I have just to bolt the attach to the hole of the KDX frame and the 4 bolts to the fender... right? No welding required.

2- This is my main question. Where do you put the spacers??? I think I will bolt the WER plate on the KDX lower clamp and put the spacer between the front fender and the WER plate... My god, I think I will need additionnal spacers/washers to clear the front fender curve. When I take a look at the KDXER pictures, I think you add additional washers?

3- How many clicks/turns do you use for woods riding, hi-speed riding, etc.

I WILL POST PICTURES AND ALL MY ADVICES AFTER.
I need your help and when I can, I give you mine

1- No welding required, however, I would drill a hole for the frame hoop bolt. For best performance the tie-rod should be parallel with the arm, not at an upward angle. If you just run the bolt through the big hole in the frame the angle is not very good.

2. Spacers underneath the WER and on top of the fender. I only used the provided spacers and deflected the fender a bit I think.

3. Play with the settings, I run mine at 1 turn out and under all the time.

If you just run the bolt through the big hole in the frame the angle is not very good.

I would drill a hole for the frame hoop bolt

You drilled the frame side to side to put the very long bolt?
Where in the frame and do you have tips for that?

Place the bracket in position to level the damper arm. The top of the bracket should fit below the weld line. I used marker to dot the holes then drilled it. Drilling will take a while......