KDXRIDER.NET

Here are some pictures from my KX swap. 2000 KDX200 with 2001 KX125 forks and triples. I had the forks rebuilt by a reputable local shop. The forks are stock with stock valving and spings.

Everything was pretty straight forward. I machined a spacer that took up the slop on the upper triple clamp instead of using the KX stem nut and shim stock.

Now a couple of questions:
The front suspension feels "heavy" instead of "plush" when pushing on it in the garage. Maybe sticktion? I have the triple clamp bolts just "snug" right now. I followed what I thought were good instructions (from transworld mx) for installing the wheel/forks/triples.

Maybe I was just not expecting the suspension to feel that much heavier than my stock KDX with .40 springs and gold valves. Any ideas? Do new fork seals need to break in?

Some pics:

Seals will need a little break in time to loosen up. Also the torque on the lower pinch bolts should be around 12ft-lbs to keep stiction from occuring. Looks like you did a nice job. Did you make a new axle to retain the KDX wheel as well?

No, I bought a 2001 KX125 wheel and axle setup. Hopefully I can recoup some costs if I can sell the KDX wheel and axle. Machining small quick aluminum parts at my work is not big deal, I may raise a few eyebrows if I start machining larger steel stuff:)

I need to buy a 1/4" or 3/8" torque wrench tomorrow. My big old 1/2" wrench does not work too well under 50ft-lb.

Do yourself a favor and get a 3/8" inch pounds torque wrench. Much easier to get the light weight fasteners correct.

m0rie wrote:Do yourself a favor and get a 3/8" inch pounds torque wrench. Much easier to get the light weight fasteners correct.

Sounds like a plan.

Anything else to check for sticktion? How do your forks feel?

My KX forks feel stiffer than my KDX forks were but the dampening is more controlled even pressing it down in the garage. Once you get it out on the trail you'll be able to tell how its doing. Take a couple of laps to get the seals break in a bit and play with the clickers. Once you get warmed up and get the clickers in a good spot aim your bike straight for the worst part the trail you can find and marvel in the amazing control that you now have over your front end. You'll be impressed!

I'm not understanding from the pics how your brake line is going to work. I mounted mine KDX style too. Looks like we have the same fork guards, and I had to take the left fork guard guide off to allow the line free movement up the fork leg. I had to drill some holes in the guard, and zip-tie the line to it.

What keeps your line from flexing into the wheel or spokes under fork compression?

Mine look like this:

As of right now, nothing is holding on the brakeline, I am still thinking about what to do.

The front forks feel much better after loosening everything and going through the tightening sequence with a torque wrench. I can't wait to ride it!

Riding it tends to straighten everything up real nice as long as you have light torque on the lower trees. After riding... recheck the torque values.

I have my brothers brake line just floating around like striders... and it works fine....

I have my brakeline routed like that and just drilled holes in the fork guard and zip tied the line to it. Doesn't look the that clean but it works for me.

Just to to follow up, the KX swap exceeded all my expectations. The bike really holds a line now through the crud due to the stiffer fork legs, I think the solid mounted bars may make it feel better as well, no arm pump so far going away from rubber bar mounts. The suspension feels plush in the tight stuff, I have had not ridden it in the desert yet. More updates to follow.