How to run DC wire through stator case?

[Juke22]

I hate to clutter forum with little questions...

I'm finally getting to the DC conversion and a bit confused how i should run the wires out of the case, to the R/R?

The stock wires pass through a sealed grommet and shrink wrap.

Originally i thought i would splice the new yellow wire with the existing black wire, but im realizing that black ground which attaches to stator plate must stay intact for the ignition coil, correct?

So floating the ground just means to send 2 yellow wires off the lighting coil and outside the case to the R/R, correct?

Thank you.

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Additionally, once i have the battery set up, can i run from the battery red back to the existing red wire that connects to the light switch, or are there other places where the wiring harness grounds to frame that i must avoid? So i can't use the original harness at all for the lighting circuit?

My first thought was to run the red from battery through light switch to join a "Y" connection with the red bullet connectors behind the headlight.

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Lastly, is there a specific R/R i need, for specs, or just a 12V.

[Chuck78]

When you float the ground, you are taking both AC voltage leads off only the lighting stator, not the ignition source coil stator, and out of the grommet in the case, and running direct to a regulator-rectifier. The lighting stator is not grounded to the case like the original configuration. The aftermarket 85W high output stators do have two identical length yellow leads, which makes things nice, but if you float the ground on the original stator for a 35W DC rectified setup, I believe you have to solder onto and extend the factory ground wire, as it is not long enough to make it out of the stator housing area.

The floated ground means you have a lighting stator coil ground which does not ground to the chassis whatsoever, it instead runs to a regulator-rectifier.

After that, you can run the regulator rectifier output lead to a battery or large capacitor (20,000uF to 35,000uF approximately, with at least a 16V minimum rating if not 18V. If you go to 22V rated, it will be a larger case, and something like a 28V or 32V rated capacitor will be massive in size. The capacitor wires up just like the battery, + & -. NOS old Mallory large canister audio capacitors are prevalent on eBay for $15-$35. A battery will virtually eliminate any flickering of the headlight at idle, and also will stay illuminated when your bike may stall out, which is a critical requirement for doing a street legal conversion, emphasis on legal.

From there, you will want to run the power off the Regulator-Rectifier to battery lead to your loads, basically just your lighting switch if you are doing an off-road bike. Any lighting grounds will have to be re-ran back to a common junction of DC lighting system grounds, and should NOT be grounded to the chassis as they are stock.

I don't understand the engineering and science behind it, but from what I gather, since the ignition system is still operating on AC voltage, you don't want to mix the AC chassis grounds with a DC ground, as it will have negative effects on the ignition operation.


The larger of the two Trail Tech regulator-rectifiers is the best thing to use for an 85W stator & DC lighting conversion on a KDX in my opinion, especially if you are running a battery.

What headlight are you running? 1989 KDX200E OEM? 1990-2006 KDX OEM? UFO reproduction? Other aftermarket?


I hope this all is laid out clear enough and is helpful to you.